View Full Version : 632ci dart tall deck pros and cons?


70ssrat
03-28-2007, 02:31:20 AM
:) I just recieved my shortblock and pro-1 heads from dynoflo. It is a Dart big-M block has forged JE 4.600 flat top pistons @10.5-1 with the pro-1 heads, Eagle 4340 4.75 stroke crank and esp rods. It is going in a 70rs/ss which at this point leans more towards pro-touring than pro-street. I am redoing the stock th400 and regearing and putting axels in the 12bolt.
Do the 4.75 strokers have any particular issues that I should be watchful of?
Anyone have tips on installing tall decks in 2nd gens? Also has anyone else here done business with Dynoflo and how was your experience.

Thanks,
70ssrat

DirtyScotty
03-28-2007, 02:35:17 AM
Off the top of my head you may want to run a hydroboost brake system instead of the booster/mastercylinder combo. I would imagine the valve covers would hit the master and maybe booster.

rustbucket79
03-28-2007, 04:14:15 AM
Quote: Do the 4.75 strokers have any particular issues that I should be watchful of?

Other than limiting the engine to a reasonable redline and needing controlling interest in a tire company, no issues as long as it was built correctly.

camcojb
03-28-2007, 01:11:25 PM
what hood do you plan on running, because hood clearance for a proper manifold and air filter size will be very interesting.

Jody

PhilM
03-28-2007, 01:46:25 PM
:) I just recieved my shortblock and pro-1 heads from dynoflo. It is a Dart big-M block has forged JE 4.600 flat top pistons @10.5-1 with the pro-1 heads, Eagle 4340 4.75 stroke crank and esp rods. It is going in a 70rs/ss which at this point leans more towards pro-touring than pro-street. I am redoing the stock th400 and regearing and putting axels in the 12bolt.
Do the 4.75 strokers have any particular issues that I should be watchful of?
Anyone have tips on installing tall decks in 2nd gens? Also has anyone else here done business with Dynoflo and how was your experience.

Thanks,
70ssrat


You should have no problem with that DYNOFLO short block. I have never heard of anyone having problems with them personally.

Having done the TD before here is what I had to do.
1. Buy a 4" cowl hood to clear the super vic intake, carb and 3" air cleaner.
2. Use the SBC towers and SBC motor mounts.
3. Bend over and get ready to spend about 1k on a set of headers. I dont know where you are located, but it would be worth the trip to send the car to Lemmons and have a set done. You will need a min od 2 1/8" primarys. No hooker or hedman will fit!!!
4. The brake booster out of a 3rd gen iroc will fit if you use fabricated valve covers. Tall valve covers will not clear.
5. Use small block long style pulleys on the crank,W/P and power steering.

Thats what I did in its street driven trim.

Personally, I would buy a motor from them. One of thier guys, dont remember his name helped me change out some main bearings at a PSCA race in Vegas in my camaro a few years ago. This was on a 920 hp+ n/a 350. He knew what was going on and I plugged him for info along the way. No BS was spelled out at any time by him. I would trust him and I know of others that have bought from him and are 100% happy.

Remember this as well. A cam that is big in a 454 will be very small in that beast you have. Good luck on trying to get that thing to hook...:D

kik_start
03-28-2007, 07:13:09 PM
:) I just recieved my shortblock and pro-1 heads from dynoflo. It is a Dart big-M block has forged JE 4.600 flat top pistons @10.5-1 with the pro-1 heads, Eagle 4340 4.75 stroke crank and esp rods. It is going in a 70rs/ss which at this point leans more towards pro-touring than pro-street. I am redoing the stock th400 and regearing and putting axels in the 12bolt.
Do the 4.75 strokers have any particular issues that I should be watchful of?
Anyone have tips on installing tall decks in 2nd gens? Also has anyone else here done business with Dynoflo and how was your experience.

Thanks,
70ssrat

632ci street motor! Hummmmm, how big of a trailer you gonna pull behind for spare tires?

70ssrat
03-29-2007, 01:51:35 AM
This motor overkill started when I decided to replace the 402 in my camaro and build a 496 stroker. As I looked into putting it together the cost of prepping the 454 block and stroker kit was only going to be about $900.00 less than a brand new after market shortblock that is superior and could hold much more cubic inches. After deciding to build a 572 Scot at dynoflo said he could build a 632 with 60 more ci and 3/4" more stroke for less than $400.00 more. I have always been a too much is not enough kind of guy so here I am trying to shoehorn a mountain motor into a street camaro:crazy:
O.K. as far as hoods go for some reason I have always had a soft spot for the cheesy L88 fiberglass hoods but they only give 3 1/2" additional clearance so I will probably go with the 4" cowl.
On the brake booster Im in a wait and see mode but I am running tall fabricated valve covers.
So small block motor mounts will lower the motor into the subframe?
I am still in retail sticker shock over the header issue.
Also finding an off the shelf oil pan for a 4 3/4" stroke that fits a 2nd gen has been frustrating. Also this is a factory A/C car and was wondering if there is an aftermarket system that the condensor would clear the valve covers.
I am looking at a doug herbert hydraulic roller: 242/246 dur @50, 642/663 lift, 112 L.C. does that sound smallish for this displacement?
Thanks for the responses,
70ssrat

kik_start
03-29-2007, 02:11:37 AM
I am looking at a doug herbert hydraulic roller: 242/246 dur @50, 642/663 lift, 112 L.C. does that sound smallish for this displacement?
Thanks for the responses,
70ssrat

I have a cam close to that in my 496...

MyBoTy
03-29-2007, 09:53:36 AM
There's a guy at the Chevelles site that's putting one in a '68 - '72 Chevelle. He's having fits - the crossmember had to be cut, among other things. Those big stroke engines don't work well with door slammers, too much clearance issues. I talked a long time with a lot of engine builders and they all agreed that the 555/565 is pretty much the optimum for a street engine. Short deck, conventional heads (your 632 is probably going to run out of air before you get to 6K) and off the shelf parts that will make way more power than you can ever hope to hook. According to the guy on the Chevelles site, your fun is just beginning with pan and header issues.
Good luck, hope it works out for you with minimum headaches.
By the way, what intake/carb are you going to use to feed that beast?

PhilM
03-29-2007, 01:01:13 PM
This motor overkill started when I decided to replace the 402 in my camaro and build a 496 stroker. As I looked into putting it together the cost of prepping the 454 block and stroker kit was only going to be about $900.00 less than a brand new after market shortblock that is superior and could hold much more cubic inches. After deciding to build a 572 Scot at dynoflo said he could build a 632 with 60 more ci and 3/4" more stroke for less than $400.00 more. I have always been a too much is not enough kind of guy so here I am trying to shoehorn a mountain motor into a street camaro:crazy:
O.K. as far as hoods go for some reason I have always had a soft spot for the cheesy L88 fiberglass hoods but they only give 3 1/2" additional clearance so I will probably go with the 4" cowl.
On the brake booster Im in a wait and see mode but I am running tall fabricated valve covers.
So small block motor mounts will lower the motor into the subframe?
I am still in retail sticker shock over the header issue.
Also finding an off the shelf oil pan for a 4 3/4" stroke that fits a 2nd gen has been frustrating. Also this is a factory A/C car and was wondering if there is an aftermarket system that the condensor would clear the valve covers.
I am looking at a doug herbert hydraulic roller: 242/246 dur @50, 642/663 lift, 112 L.C. does that sound smallish for this displacement?
Thanks for the responses,
70ssrat

I dont think that that hood will work. If I remember correctly, it tapers back towards the cowl.

Your oil pan will probably cost no less than 600 bones. I has a Jeff Johnson fabed ban and i was only running a 4 1/12" arm. The small block mounts were used because that is what I had. Looking at a set of BBC mounts showed me there was no way the pan would have worked.

If you are going to run a small cam like that you may want to just use a set of hookers and see if you can make them fit. I found my invoice for my headers and they were $1800 coated. The will not fit inside the frame rails, so be prepared.

Your cam. This really should not have been an afterthought. It seems to me like your heads already have solid roller springs set up on them. I personally would do a solid roller. Thats me though.

If your compression ht is around 1.087 which it probably is, you wont be able to have a long lived street motor. That is that much more reason for a solid.

I understand about the bigger is better thing. I got cured of that when a 377 outran my 540. Now I am the other way, but thats me.

I have heard thats its sometimes necesssary to move the motor back about 1/2 inch for the pan to clear, but then you have major header issues.

Rick WI
03-29-2007, 05:45:51 PM
I can't picture any way in heck that it will fit in the area of the AC box that is for sure. I run a tall deck small block with tall valve covers and that is super tight. Hedders were a custom trick to fit in nice on top of that.

You'll have fun sorting it all out. I think for the AC I'd see if you could smooth the firewall and see if you can fit in a Vintage air system.

Will be a lot of work but I think all these types of projects are worth it in the end because it's different.

no-nitro
03-29-2007, 06:37:39 PM
ok i have a 572 not installed yet of coarse, but this is what i did prior to get ready for install.
1. took of my ac box
2. smoothed out the fire wall.
3. bought a hydraboost system.
4. checked into headers (have to have them custom made)
5. bought small block solid mounts.
6. 4" cowl hood
7. mini tubed the rear to get the biggest tire i can with all the torqe.(still no chance of hook up on the street)
8. fab 9" moser axles
9. built turbo 400
10. ladder bar coil over
11. 10 pt cage
12. subframe connectors
13. global west a arms
14. coil overs
with all the torqe that motor makes the cost does not seem to stop.
Getting a monster motor is great, but you have to think of everything else to go with your setup to keep your self safe. You might have everything already setup. I am Just tring to fill you in on others you need to think about, and you might not need everything that i have.
There is a guy on this board that has the 572 gm create motor (720 race version) that bought a set of hedders from lemons. he seid they fit great on his tall deck. I have been trying to get pics from him for 6 months. I have talked to him a few times and i asked what mods he had to do to get that to fit. He did not metion anything about having to mod the crossmember.
His board name is badss.
There is no way you are going to be able to keep your factory air or booster setup.
I would go with the vintage air setup like rick talked about above, and go with either a manual brake set up or hydraboost. I personly would go with the hydroboost if you are going to be on the street. Good luck stopping that tank with all that power and weight.
good luck.
mike

70ssrat
03-29-2007, 11:58:27 PM
myboty: Dart or super victor and 1050 dominator

PhilM: yea the hood is going to be 4" cowl(ever since I saw an L88 hood on a 71 rs/z28 at a car show I wanted one)
I talked to steffs about a custom fab $675.00 w/o pickup. I also talked to Hambergers and their tech said he thought that thier model 1488 would work as a couple of customers had used it on 4.75 strokes and should only require a notch on the crossmember and $189.00 from Jegs(we'll see).
On the headers I think I might order a custom weld up set as I have a friend with an outlaw car that welds all his and is pretty damn good with a tig.
I am still undecided on solid vs hyd. roller cam although the $580.00 price on comps tall body hyd. lifters makes the less expensive solid more appealing.So all you engine pros send some grind recomendations.
My compression height is: 1.120. What does wont be able to be long lived as a street motor mean?

Rick WI: I have already removed the ac box and am not wanting to alter the firewall other than adding a bolt up plate ac delete. My question is which aftermarket setup affords the most clearance and quality. Alot of work but worth it is right, if I just wanted to have one of the fastest cars in town I would have tubbed it rebuilt the 402 put a procharger with big boost on it.

No-Nitro:1) Done. Researching aftermarket systems now. 2) trying not to alter any sheet metal as this is a factory rs/ss loaded with options that some purest collector might give Barret Jackson type money for some day. 3) More than likely will. 4) weld ups. 5) will see. 6) Yup. 7) Trying not to. 8) refurbing rearend including higher gears and axles and disc brakes. 9) Yup 10) hotchkiss TVS. 11) not yet 12) bolt up type 13) on wish list. 14) Air ride someday.
Thanks again for all the info,
Bart

Rick WI
03-30-2007, 03:35:59 AM
A kit like the Vintage air has all the components inside the car behind the glove box, so the only thing coming out are your fridge lines.

Another option for the brakes is the electric system from ABS in Cali. EXPENSIVE ($1000) but like a hyda system eliminates the booster. The electric pump mounts on the frame on the front pass side. I just got done with an install on one tonight although have not driven the car yet.