My '76 Project (yes, ANOTHER Big Bumper build!)

[AdvAutoBob]

Hey guys.. after lurking around this place for the last couple of years, I thought it was time to share MY project with ya..

The following pages wil chronicle the build of my latest street car project, with a goal of running at HOT ROD Drag Week 2013.

Some background... I've been involved in the high-performance/racing community for most of my life, and about 9 years ago finally opened my own speed shop. Since what we do is 90% street oriented, I began looking a couple of years ago for a special street project.

I've always had a fondness for the 2nd gen (my very first car was a '79 Trans Am, my first race car was a '78 Z28, and I've owned a few different Camaros and Firebirds over the years), so I began looking for a Camaro to fit the bill. Also.. I wanted something a little bit "different" this time out, and a "Disco Bumper" car was what I went looking for.

I found my candidate in a Craigslist ad:



One very tired 1976 Type LT coupe... just languishing away in front of somebody's apartment. The previous owner was attempting to restore it, but realized he'd bitten off more than he could chew. I ended up trading him a rifle for it (that was in the ad, believe it or not!).

Also included were parts from another Camaro he'd parted out, as well as a completely refurbed subframe (all new brakes, control arm bushings, front end parts, etc.), some misc. speed parts (Z-gate shifter, Holley 3310 carb, some other stuff). So.. I loaded it all up in my trailer and dragged it home.

Once back at the shop, I threw it on my "long term" lift (for cars staying awhile), and evaluated it... the verdict? our pet expression at the shop: "Rougher than a night in jail"!



(sitting on the lift)

Inside... the dash pad was already stripped out (and gone with no replacement):


Furthermore... the floors had the dreaded rot, and the previous owner attempted to arrest it by cutting out the bad areas (for the most part):
Driver side:


Passenger side:


I can see why the previous owner was discouraged....

[AdvAutoBob]

So this was 2 years ago... events conspired against me to begin the process, so it was rolled off and put in the corner.. Seemed like every time I wanted to get started, something else would get in the way. Things looked bleak for my poor Camaro...

Then, this year I watched the entire week's live feed of Drag week, and the fire was relit. This would be a PERFECT candidate. We cleared the pile of parts off the roof and hood, and rolled her back onto the lift.

With the stock hood removed, it was time to get back to work!


Obligatory "Before" shots of the engine compartment:



NOW we're getting somewhere!



Rearend and rear bumper stripped off:


And the final result - meet "Skeletor"!


Stripped down, and ready for the REAL work to begin!

More to follow....

[MikeDVC]

Subscribed, good luck with your build

[AdvAutoBob]

OK.. with the Camaro being stripped down to the body shell and doors, it was time to get to work...

Since minitubbing is in the plans, the wheelwells were cut out in the rear:


Outside view of the LH side:


A ton of room gained:


The plan is for steel mini-tubs (for strength and more resistant to rocks, etc.), as well as moving the leaf springs in for tire clearance. this will be accomplished by using offset shackles (1-3/4") in the rear, and by moving the front leaf spring pockets inward by 1" in the front. For the time being, the wheel openings were cut out as part of the "cut" phase.

[AdvAutoBob]

On to the floorboards..

Here, you can see where the previous owner cut away the rotten metal on the driver's side rear footwell.


I cut the rest of the driver side floor from the rear footwell forward to the floor/toeboard joint, cutting the spotwelds from the seat mount and subframe mount understructure:


Along with the Camaro, came some reproduction floorpan repair panels (score!)... they had some minor surface rust on them (from sitting inside the car, i'm sure) that I removed with a multi-step process that included using naval jelly (killer rust removal stuff!), then washing them off with "purple stuff", then soap and water. I then ran a DA with 180 grit paper to smooth them out, then applied Eastwood Rust Encapsulator (from a spray bomb). I had done this previously, so some time now was saved.

I test fit the panel, and here's the result:


While the panel was in place, I went underneath and used a soapstone to mark out where the understructures were. I then removed the panel and drilled holes in the floorpan in order to spot weld it back to the understructures like the factory:

I'll take pictures of the RH side later tonight as to where I mark the panels, etc. as I didn't do it on the LH side.

The completed LH floorpan, welded in place:



Now... I overlapped the patch panel intentionally by about 1-1/2". I did this for greater structural strength since the car will be raced. Additionally, I ran beads of weld along the floor both where the subframe bolt goes and the seat mount bolts go to help again with strength:


Yes.. it will be getting subframe connectors, but every little bit helps on a unibody for rigidity.

You'll notice the toeboard isn't in yet... I'm doing the floorpans first, then fabricating toeboards at the same time...

[AdvAutoBob]

Turning to the RH side, the rear footwells had a bit more metal cut out from them:


Once again, I cut from the rear footwell to the toeboard joint, cleaning, etc. and applying Rust Encapsulator:



You can see how much extra fabrication I'll have on the RH side as I test fit the repair panel:


Tonight I should get to the markout and drilling for the spotwelds.. hopefully I can get it spot welded in place. Since I have a shop to run, and this is a personal project, the only time I have to work on this is after shop hours.

More to come later...

[brooksman9]

Sweet. Love the pin stripping. Will watch this progress with great interest.
BBFL

[Cmatt1605]

subscribed, nice start! keep up the good work!

[Rich Schmidt]

Awsome. I do the same thing to my cars,I peel up a lot of seam sealer,and weld a lot of the braces and floor panels to each other.

As for mini tubbing,I was planning on doing it and my plan was to notch the rails where they turn out rearward of the shock mount including removing mount,and turning up the edge of the rail where it is welded to the floor. Then I was going weld a ladder bar crossemember between the rear rails with the brackets spaced to accept leaf springs,then weld frame connectors from the front subframe to the ladder bar crossmember and then run tubes from the main hoop down to the crossmember too. You can buy ladder bar crossemembers with the ladder bar brackets not welded on,then weld them on about 3" apart for the spring to fit in. If you do that,you might not even need to move the rear shackles.

[5spd540]

The dreaded floor replace but you yout a good start on your car and another big bumper saved

[Blu-By-U 79Z]

hey man cool project. You are moving right along! I'll be watching your build

[AdvAutoBob]

Thanks for the kind words guys! I'm just happy I can contribute to the general knowledge/idea pool

OK... Here's how I start securing the floorpan.. by tracing the outline of the subframe mount and seat mount brace understructure:



Back out of the car, in preparation for drilling:


And with holes drilled, ready to drop back in:


More later...

[AdvAutoBob]

In between the floorpans, I decided to remove the already cracked windshield (makes working inside a lot cooler!).. and saw some minor surface rust inside the cowl where the wiper transmission goes.

A quick fix was in order... taking a spot blaster, I sandblasted the underneath, and afterward sealed it with Rust Encapsulator. Once it cured, I followed with some spray-in bedliner in a can for a tough, durable finish.

Two things you'll need:


The most pitted area, on the driver side, AFTER treatment:


Center, looking at the passenger side:


And a closeup look at the finish:


I'm very pleased with how it came out, and it took practically no time at all to accomplish.

BTW.. this is the spot blaster I used:
http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-h...gun-95793.html

As long as you use good blast media, this is a great little gun for spot work.

Back to the floorboards!

[AdvAutoBob]

After drilling, I welded the RH floorboard in place:



However... I still have an extra area to repair:



Putting that aside for the moment, I turned my attention to the RH side toeboard. I decided to do the RH side becasue it was easier

A look at the rust... a lot of it is on the surface, rather than heavy rot:


I cut a swatch out of it, (going into "good" metal), and ground away:


And, once again... good old Rust Encapsulator:


Now to wait for it to cure, then fit a patch panel and weld in place.

More to come...

[bushido05]

Wow !! great JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!