1970 Heater Core

Discussion in '1970 - 1973 Specific' started by gpm6367, Sep 11, 2019 at 4:05 PM.

  1. gpm6367

    gpm6367 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Are they all created equally?

    I ordered one off of eBay and the photo showed it to be brass (or copper?) and when it got here it was actually silver and the welds did not look that good so I sent it back. May have been aluminum?

    Is the brass/copper preferred? Any issue with going to my local Napa?
     
  2. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I replaced my original with a new copper/brass one 15 years ago.
    It lasted 13 years before an antifreeze dribble appeared on the passenger floor. :(

    I asked the same question about heater cores two years ago...
    Mine has an aluminum radiator and intake so everything the antifreeze contacts is either aluminum or iron (block, heads pump).
    I figure there's less chance for galvanic reaction/corrosion by NOT adding copper to the mix of metals.

    So... I've got a new aluminum heater core waiting to be installed.
    (It's been gathering dust in my garage for 2 years. :screwup: )
     
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  3. gpm6367

    gpm6367 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    And I sent the aluminum one back. :)
     
  4. 70lt1z28

    70lt1z28 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I had my original recored but it cost a ton. When I think about it, I’m not sure I will ever drive the car when it’s cold enough to need a heater. I may just plug off the hoses.
     
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  5. gpm6367

    gpm6367 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    My radiator is not aluminum so I think I’ll get an original brass/copper style.

    Most of them on eBay are aluminum. There are some that are significantly more expensive and I’m trying to find out if they are brass/copper. Is there even an advantage to spending the extra money for brass/copper?
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2019 at 7:15 PM
  6. gpm6367

    gpm6367 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Would ANYONE recommend using either of the existing original heater cores that I have? They weren’t leaking when removed but are almost 50 years old. I don’t want to ever have to pull this apart again...
     
  7. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    I would get them pressure tested. That would be a good starting point. The one I sent you did not leak. I thought I remember you saying there's a rad shop near by.
     
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  8. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I pressure tested my new one. (Don't want to do the job TWICE!)
    I hooked it up to the hoses and let it sit on a towel on the fender well until the coolant got hot and up to normal pressure.
    No leaks... I called it good.
     
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  9. 70lt1z28

    70lt1z28 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Easy to check with a compressor and set the regulator to 15psi (I went to 25 on mine) and dunk it is a tub of water and look for bubbles.
     
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  10. BillyDean7173

    BillyDean7173 Veteran Member

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    Just FYI, the original Harrison heater cores (at least the early ones) will be stamped with a date code. I can't remember if it's stamped "Harrison" like the radiator.

    I found out about the date code when I pulled what I thought was an original heater core (it was brass/copper) out of an original heater box I picked up years ago and shipped it to the guy who was restoring my original 73Z radiator. When the old timer got it, he said what the hell is this? Then I got schooled, LOL. For one, the aftermarket had a sticker on it with the date code.

    Knowing then what to look for, I pulled the real deal core out of another heater box I had and then got schooled on how he pressure tests the cores. It checked out good and I didn't have to have him re-core it.
     

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