1973 Camaro LS1/T56 Swap!

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Roggie, Oct 30, 2018.

  1. Roggie

    Roggie New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2014
    Location:
    United States
    Hi Gang, long time lurker here. Thought I'd create a thread for the project that I officially kicked off last night:

    Quick History: I bought this car from my aunt in 2014. She ordered the car in the fall of 1972, and picked it up in the spring if 1973. The car isn't anything special on the spec sheet, but my family and I have a lot of pride in the car. We have records of everything done with and to the car, which is pretty fun, everything from the first gallon of gas put in, and the last set of points replaced, and videos and pics of it's first run down the drag strip back in '75...

    Last year I made the decision to LS swap the car. Ultimate goal with the car is to maximize the amount of fun my family and I can possibly have with it. So this means street car, with the ability to go do the occasional track day or auto cross event...

    I bought a complete running and driving 2000 Camaro Z/28 off craigslist for a good price, and plan to swap the LS1 and T56 from that into my camaro. A shame parting a decent car like this 2000 Z/28... but hey, priorities are priorities.

    I kicked off the project last night by pulling the front clip off the '73. hoping to have the engine out on Tuesday night of next week.

    Admittedly my entire project is not 100% (or even 90%!) planned, still working through some details with accessory drive, slave cylinder for clutch, etc, so I
    am WIDE OPEN to input on the project!

    I attached a few pics to show the car and the progress to date.

    Thanks!
    rear left both cars.jpg in the shop.jpg hood up.jpg front left no clip.jpg front no clip.jpg front right no clip.jpg front both cars.jpg front both cars.jpg hood up.jpg in the shop.jpg rear left both cars.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  2. C4Racer

    C4Racer Veteran Member

    Messages:
    652
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2018
    That's a massive shop you got there! That makes life a lot easier on a swap like this.
    I have parted out a few 4th gens myself - really they aren't worth much. Decent cars but kinda ugly in my view. Don't feel too bad. I considered picking up a CTSV to do a swap from - found a LS2 car for $10K with around 100K miles. Could have probably used the seats and who knows what else from it and sold of bits and pieces. Would have been a lot of work though.
    I ended up buying a more complete car with a nice old school 406, so my conversion is more focused on just the T56 - but even there I have some parts to do this swap and I am still budgeting $5K for it. That's using a new Magnum T56.

    Anyway - I think that's a good way to go for you. One thing you may consider using is the rear end. They are smaller gears than the 2nd gen 10 bolt, but might be slightly narrower and already come with decent rear disc brakes. The car I just picked up is a 71 and has a late model 10 bolt with an Eaton posi (which should be standard in any SS) and Moser axles - 28 spline. With street tires I submit it's plenty strong enough especially at stock LS1 power levels - I'm running 500hp through it. Eventually I plan to swap in a 9", but for now it seems to be a non issue.
     
    Roggie likes this.
  3. AK99

    AK99 Member

    Messages:
    44
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2018
    Location:
    Lilly Chapel, Ohio
    I don't recommend using the newer 7.6 diff. They are weak link in a 3rd and 4th gen and a stock engine can hurt them. However from what I remember, the rear brake setup is a direct swap. The Zexel Torsen diff is an easy item to resell.
     
  4. BonzoHansen

    BonzoHansen Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    19,500
    Likes Received:
    824
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2005
    Location:
    Scott from Hamilton, NJ
    yeah. That's a terrible idea lol. keep the brakes, sell the weak rear.

    To clear the staggered shocks I think you need 2 LH sides.
     
  5. Roggie

    Roggie New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2014
    Location:
    United States
    Ok thanks for the info. I'll keep my stock rear, swap in the brakes, and pitch the 4th gen rear end.

    Does anyone have a recommendation for a diff? Currently the 1973 is open and a 3.08 (or something like that) ratio... will be gearing to ~4.10... and would like to put either posi or limited slip in the rear...thoughts?
     
  6. BonzoHansen

    BonzoHansen Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    19,500
    Likes Received:
    824
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2005
    Location:
    Scott from Hamilton, NJ
    Posi is limited slip

    Which one to buy? depends on how the car is being used
     
  7. Roggie

    Roggie New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2014
    Location:
    United States
    Street use primarily. Occasional limited track days. Plans for hp to the wheels do not currently exceed 500 hp.
     
  8. BonzoHansen

    BonzoHansen Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    19,500
    Likes Received:
    824
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2005
    Location:
    Scott from Hamilton, NJ
    I like my eaton tru-track, and 3.90 gears. I have sbc/T56.

    Also a good time to step up to 30 spline axles. there are a lot of threads in the drivetrain section to read.
     
  9. Roggie

    Roggie New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2014
    Location:
    United States
    Great info, thanks for sharing. I'll start doing some research on the 30 spline axles too.

    Thanks!
     
  10. Roggie

    Roggie New Member

    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2014
    Location:
    United States
    Quick update on progress - front end is all out, interior removed, and fortunately, no real surprises found (I was concerned that I'd find enough rust that I'd need to repair it)

    Front suspension is completely removed from the subframe with the exception of the lower control arms... is there a trick to removing the rear mount for the lower control arm? I can't seem to get it to move... about to burn the rubber out of the mount...

    Wanting to get the subframe off to the powder coaster over the weekend...

    Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.