1978 Z28- Seee Ya!

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by 8pack, Mar 8, 2014.

  1. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Small Progress. I sent out my hood hinges to Willie here:

    http://www.hoodhingerepair.com/

    They came back nicely powder coated and look awesome! I also sent my Motor mounts to him to have him rivet them together instead of using the tie wraps when putting the clam shells back together with the poly mounts. No charge for that!

    I also started cleaning up my brake lines. I was thinking of replacing them because the looked rusty but I thought I would try cleaning them up with a wire wheel first. Looks like I can save some money on new lines. I am going to spray paint them with stainless steel colored paint next to seal them up.

    Mount all riveted:

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    Sweet hinges!

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    Brake Lines Before:

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    Brake lines After. All cleaned up.

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    Lastly, Finished raising the pool equipment.

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    I have tomorrow and Tuesday off so maybe I will get some more stuff done. I am at the point where I need to spend several days painting parts, the firewall, undercarriage etc. I hate painting...
     
  2. 3504SPD

    3504SPD Veteran Member

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    Pool equipment move looks nice.
     
  3. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Too bad the car doesn't look as good as the pool equipment! Thanks for the compliment.

    Progress today! Leaf springs scuffed, primed and painted. Brake lines also painted. Rear end fully cleaned and prepped for paint tomorrow.

    Springs Before....Blue is paint not powder coat. Very thin and there was some flash rust showing through. No big deal, scuffed them up:

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    Primed with self etching Primer from POR....

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    And finally painted with POR chassis coat black. It is really a very satin finish, just short of flat....4 coats with a spray can.

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  4. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Paint, Paint, Paint........Brake lines are painted. See the brake line bush below primed. Duplicolor Stainless Paint.

    I painted the rear end finally. 2 coats POR15, 2 coats Chassis black. Painting this stuff in high humidity is tough. The first 3 coats went on beautifully and leveled and smoothed out. A storm came and the humidity went up. It starts to cure very quickly and the last coat the brush marks wouldn't level. The fix was I had a Chassis Black spray can. I lightly misted the the entire thing and the brush marks instantly leveled. Spray can has more solvent in it I think....Powder coated silver rear cover.

    Painted Center link and tie rod ends. Did black as they will stay cleaner looking but now think I should have gone with a silver or metal colored paint.

    Steering box is primered. Any suggestions on specific colors welcome!

    Next stop gas tank, and under carriage. Hopefully this weekend and then the suspension goes back in.

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    After First coat of POR15, You can see it still looks a bit rough and you can see a lot of the pitting. After the final coat it looked basically smooth.

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    Last edited: May 2, 2014
  5. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Nice, my 2nd new car I ordered was a 78 Z28 4-spd. Yeah and that's snow starting in the 2nd pic in the fall of 1977.

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  6. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Marathon Painting weekend. Got almost all of it done! Yeah baby.... :)

    2 Coats POR 15, 2 coats POR Chassis Black on the engine compartment, sub frame and underbody. Underbody got 1 coat of Chassis black not 2 and some areas I only did the 2 coats POR 15 since it could not be seen and would not be exposed to UV. This is not a an easy process. You need a solid 12 hrs since you can't let any of the coats fully dry before you re-coat. It takes 3-4hrs per coat (60-65 degrees). I used it last time I did the car and it held up extremely well but did need a refresh.

    The stuff is very messy to use since if you get it on you it will stain your skin if you don't get it off right away. You have to wear a respirator for sure. Doing it on your back under the car is miserable stuff. 2 of us took about 1.5 hrs to do the undercarriage each time.

    Also painted the steering box, primed with POR self etching primer and then sprayed POR Metal Mask which looks like raw metal more or less when it dries.

    Next I need to fluid film the inside of the rails.

    I have to still do the wheel wells, Brake Booster, master cylinder and I think that's it. Hopefully suspension work next weekend. Of to Bogota for the week.

    Engine compartment

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    Firewall......

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    Steering Box

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  7. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Under carriage and Gas tank all painted. Next stop cleaning up the rear brake lines and reinstalling the suspension.

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  8. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Good Progress over the last few days:

    Steering box is back on the car. All the undercarriage and painting is is done except the master cylinder and the brake booster and the frost to rear brake line getting cleaned up.

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    Got the right front suspension back together. Installing Keith's 2G springs so this may not work for others with stock or longer springs. Learned a lot on that one:

    First, necessary tools, BFH, LFH, 2x4:

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    2 pieces of 1/2 or 3/4 ply screwed together with a 1/2" hole drilled in the center. 1/2" Threaded rod, nuts and washers, steel flat bar with 1/2" hole drilled in center:

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    I started by putting the threaded rod through the top of shock tower and then though the spring and LCA, then plywood, Steel flat bar then washer and nut. I put the jack under the plywood first removing the steel cup so the nut and rod could go through the hole in the jack plate. As I jacked up the wood plate I made sure the spring was seated and every few pumps tightened the nut down on the top of the shock tower as the spring compressed.

    Unfortunately as I jacked up the control arm I could not get the LCA to line up and seat on the pockets. So I ended up dropping it all.

    I was able to install the LCAs alone first. The 2G springs are short enough that they do not need to be compressed, just carefully lined up and slid into the LCA pocket.

    Put the threaded rod back down through the spring and bottom of the LCA, plywood etc.and put the nut back on the topside. This is so when you start compressing the spring the threaded rod acts as a safety to prevent the spring from accidentally flying out.

    Start by jacking it up just a few pumps at a time. When you JUST start to get a little tension on the spring tighten the nut on the threaded rod up top so the control arm can't go back down. Make sure it is seated properly up top. The bottom will be just in the edge of the lip maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the bottom pocket. Take the 2x4 and the BFH and bang the spring in towards the inside of the car until it seats.

    Once the spring is seated keep pumping on the jack and compressing the spring until the the car starts to lift off the jack stand. Thread the top nut down tight which will hold it all together. Lower the jack.

    Install the spindle on the upper and lower ball to hold it all together.

    Jack the LCA up just a couple of pumps to take the pressure off the top nut. Loosen it all the way up. drop the jack and remove the nut and washer from the plywood and slide out the threaded rod.

    All Done! Next install the shock.

    Note, when using the solid steel LCA bushings from AFCO, the stock bolts are too big and you need 1/2" grade 8 bolts.

    First Try. No luck seating the bushings in the pockets:

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    Second try - Bingo:

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    Afco Extended Upper Ball Joints:

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    All back together, dropping plywood and disconnecting threaded rod.

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  9. ctchap70

    ctchap70 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    That's some fine progress! Good work!
     
  10. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    More Suspension progress today as well as a few painting details.

    POR 15 on the Ebrake that Bonzo hooked me up with.

    Finished the right front suspension so the front springs and Control arms are on.

    Mounted the left rear spring on the differential.

    Had a bear of a time getting the upper frame bushings out of the rails and spent 2hrs on that alone. There are poly and the sleeve had to come out to get the bushings out. I had to fab a press to push the sleeve through. When I finally got them out the sleeve looks new, and the bushings look new after being in there for 15+ years.


    Ebrake. Started off totally covered in rust.

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    Here is the sleeve after getting pushed out far enough to be able to grab it with a vice grip.

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    Here in the press tool I made. I reassembled it to show the simple set up.

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    Sleeve and bushing looks basically new still:

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    More pics tomorrow when everything is together.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2014

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