1978 Z28- Seee Ya!

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by 8pack, Mar 8, 2014.

  1. mrfleet12

    mrfleet12 Veteran Member

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    8Pack, from your earlier post with pinion angle issue, what was the end result from dropping the trans back down and removing the pinion shims?
     
  2. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I am not sure yet. I need to get the front end aligned first and back on the highway. As soon as I do I will update on that. Ideally I would like to get new wheels and tires on as well before I do anything else as the tires are old and might be the cause as well.
     
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  3. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I am gong through odyssey of trying to get my suspension sorted. I have 2 cross posts on the UCA install. I went and got it aligned but there is not enough adjustment room so I just bought another set of sleeves and hope to have them this weekend.

    I measured all around the car for ride height and oddly my passenger side rear sits 3/4” lower than the driver’s side. Not sure what that is about.

    I thought I had some binding in he rear springs so everything has been lubricated with oil and heavy grease. I opened up the shackles and made sure the lower rubber bushing was not stuck to the shackle plates and then stuffed grease in there.

    I bought some contact cement to do some repairs to my package tray.

    Suspension related posts...

    http://www.nastyz28.com/threads/alignment-results-and-questions.324614/

    http://www.nastyz28.com/threads/spc-upper-ca-install-help.324280/

    http://www.nastyz28.com/threads/lower-control-arm-stops-snubbers.324529/


    Will post better updates after the weekend....
     
  4. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Didn't get ny work done on the car this weekend. Too much to do around the house. However I did get my truck delivered finally! I will mix in Truck progress in here as well as some may find it interesting.....It is a FORD though!!

    Stats:

    • 1955 Ford F250
    • 223 IL 6
    • 4.88 Rear
    • 109HP
    • Waterfall Blue

    On the delivery truck......
    Untitled_2019-Apr-28_07_14_25.jpg Untitled_2019-Apr-28_07_14_44.jpg
    Snug as a bug in a rug.....
    Untitled_2019-Apr-29_07_35_23.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2019
    dave@ztech, xten and mrfleet12 like this.
  5. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Good day in the garage...did I ever post that I love my Holley Sniper! Fuel injection is awesome!

    Worked on getting my suspension worked out. Needed to swap in different length adjusters on my SPC Control arms. Since I had to take a bunch of stuff apart anyway I decided to pull the 1/4" spacers out and replace them with the 3/4" ones I had in before.

    I highly recommend the Hotchkis 600# springs. I have had the custom works, global west and these in the car. They are by far the best riding spring. Very firm yet compliant. For autocross maybe you want the higher spring rate of the other ones, but for good sport handling and driving these are the best so far. They also have a little more free ride height which means you could go with a 1/2" spacer instead of 3/4" like I did which would get you to around 13.5" from hub center to fender lip. Your results may vary, every car is different.

    The 3/4" spacers ended up raising the car a touch more than I wanted but it is still lower than stock. The good news is my bump stops/jouncers are exactly 1/4" off the frame where they needed to be instead of sitting on the frame and that definitely improved the ride.

    Since the front is a little higher now the car actually sat like stock with the front a little higher than the rear. I have the custom works shackles with 2 sets of holes that allow you to adjust the ride height. I moved the spring to the lower bolt hole to get about an inch lift in the back. It is still lower than stock.

    After the pics are some tips on installing the spacers, springs and getting the rear shackles properly torqued so there is no binding or clunking.

    Here is the new ride height. After I put the 18" wheels on the back and 17" on front I will get a little of the rake back.

    IMG_20190511_160333.jpg IMG_20190511_160312.jpg
     
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  6. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    Car looks good Bill. Glad you're satisfied with it!
     
  7. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Suspension Installation Tips:

    I probably should have re-read my old posts to remind myself of some tips but these are slightly revised.

    Installing front springs and metal spacers that fit in the lower pocket:

    1. First zip tie the spacers to the bottom of the springs. At least 4 as tight as you can get them.
    2. Position the spring in the upper pocket being sure it is centered on the fingers.
    3. It helps to have a second person but lift the lower control arm up and get a jack under it. Slowly lift the control arm and get the spring clocked properly. I don't have pics but the spacer needs to be positioned so the leading edge just barely clears the front of the spring pocket.
    4. Raise the control arm just a little bit until the leading edge (closest to you if you are facing the control arms) just barely slides in. If you raise it too far it will hang up.
    5. Now kick in the front of the spring and it will partly seat and the leading edge will clear the front of the pocket.
    6. Now the back of the spacer will be hung up on the rear of the pocket and will be sticking down through the shock hole.
    7. You need a second floor jack for the next step. Put a block of wood and a tall heavy duty socket on top of the jack plate. Start jacking it up and position the socket so it is under the spacer where it is hung up and start jacking it up. The trick is you need to start to jack up the control arm as well. Work back and forth until the spring pops into the pocket. It will go in with a BANG! If you jack the control arm up too far it will put too much pressure on the spring and it won't pop into place.
    Rear Springs/Shackles:

    I had trouble With harshness and binding. I still think my springs need to go down a notch maybe to #150 or #125. That said I wanted to raise the rear and rehab the shackles to ensure there was no binding. I am running delrin bushings in the upper frame and rubber in the spring eye.
    Put the frame up on jack stands and put a jack under the pumpkin so it just barely puts pressure on it.

    1. The easiest way to get everything apart,vat least with Delein uppers is to remove the upper bolts first. you may have to wiggle them out or tap them out with a screw driver under the head if the bolt.
    2. Remove the bottom retaining nut on your shocks so you can lower the rear end as far as you need to.
    3. Now you can easily remove the lower shackle bolts by letting the rear end down just enough for the spring eye to clear the body.
    4. If you have the adjustable shackles you will then need to remove and move the lower bolts to the lower hole on the shackle.
    5. When everything is apart lube the inside of the delrin bushing and the part that slides into the frame. Replace the bushings and slide the steel sleeve in.
    6. Grease the shackles where they contact the rubber thoroughly. You can't out too much. I also greased the upper part of the shackle where it meets the delrin bushings.
    7. Loosely reaassemble the lower spring eye and shackle in the right hole. Loosely!
    8. Raise the differential back up until the upper shackle hole aligns with the bushing and slide the bolt in and loosely assemble.
    9. Now tighten up the upper shackle bolt first. Get it just tight enough that the schackle touched the bushing but us still too loose.
    10. Now tighten the lower shackle bolt. Tighten the bolt until the shackles solid touch the rubber but the bolt spins freely if you spin one end with the wrench.
    11. In small steps tighten the upper bolts until it spins with just a time but if drag on it and stop. Do the same with the lower bolt. With the rubber bushings it will go from spinning relatively freely to heavy drag or bind in as little as half a turn. Verify both bolts spun easily with a wrench, but not freely with your fingers. The
    12. If you have rubber uppers you should be able to adjust them the same as I describe the lowers.

    If you adjust them as described there will be enough pressure on the bushings to keep them from being sloppy but also allow them to move without binding....

    Good luck!
     
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  8. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Thanks Phil! Next stop new wheels and paint! Post some pics of your dog somewhere. He must be big by now!
     
  9. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    Nina will be a year on the 25th. She's not as big as the others, maybe 75#. But she's a beautiful charcoal with amber eyes. Always happy, tail wagging.
    Can't wait to see your car with the new wheels!
    Cruise season, maybe you, bodymanbill and I could meet up somewhere when we have time and weather.
     
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  10. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    Bill, here's pics taken in March and one in February. First one is with Kid's new pup to give you an idea how tall she got. 20190331_173837.jpg . 20190224_100720.jpg .
     

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