1980 bright blue paint - code 24…OR

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by JD Z, Aug 11, 2019.

  1. JD Z

    JD Z Veteran Member

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    F99C7302-B60A-4FF8-AEFA-21C17A485EB9.jpeg 88DA75FD-EEA7-404E-9A04-83455145136D.jpeg B3379F1F-8470-4CAE-8CBB-12C99F03DD48.jpeg I ordered touch up paint in GM code 24 (which is the number on the plate). As I tested the color it was pretty close with just the paint, but with the clearcoat, it is darker.

    One gent on this forum said my car is a 1979 based on the color. I wonder if the previous owner repainted in a lighter blue and maybe a 1979 color. Your thoughts on the colors?

    Wonder what to do next.
     
  2. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    I would go to the jobber and get them to take a picture. They should have a spectrum analyzer. If they don't, try to find a jobber that does. Do another spray out and take it back to the store if it does't match. If they are good at what they do, they should be able to tint and get it close. Try higher air pressure, that makes it lighter. Gun distance, solvent choice, air pressure and humidity all play a part. And as you have noticed, so does the clear and the number of coats applied. Pretty car BTW.
     
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  3. Gary S

    Gary S Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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    That looks right for 1980 Code 24. My Son has a Z28 with the same color. You can never trust pictures as the color you see depends on too many variables. The light the picture was taken in will change the color. Digital pictures have too many variables to determine what shade it actually is.
    And, if that is original paint, it will be seriously faded after all these years so it won't match what it was originally or match touchup paint that is original shade. Clearcoat will also change the color your eyes perceive it to be. Originally, a 1980 car did not have clear coat so if you add it now, expect some color change.
     
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  4. DB Z28

    DB Z28 Veteran Member

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    I think the 80 color is lighter shade than a 79 color. My 79 we tried to match the color on the car and it would not match the 79 color that we originally painted found out that clear coat yellowed over 20 years and gave it a different tint
     
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  5. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    It's not the kind of photograph that one may think. It's a multi-angle spectrum analyzer. All the major paint companies have a variation of it, some take more angles than others. When I was a tech rep for a PPG store we had one called "The Prophet". It was $21K. To get it re calibrated it was $7k. The newer PPG offering is called "Rapid Match" and I'm sure they've gotten better and the price has come down. Sometimes it would get the color dead nuts, sometimes...not great. That's where the tinting skills come in to play. Guess I should have been clearer with what I said. This is a machine that you lay on CLEAN, UNDAMAGED paint (very important) and it usually takes 5 pictures of the color, then spits out a formula to be mixed. It also gives you a number to tell you how accurate the reading is. The lower the number, the better the match is.
     
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  6. JD Z

    JD Z Veteran Member

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    Thanks for the feedback. I’m going to have a local shop match by eye, but I need a good piece from the car to bring in. What is an easy part to take off? The flares or the tail fin?

    A little on the quick how if you have suggestions.
     
  7. xten

    xten Veteran Member

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    That would be better answered by a rubber bumper guy. IIRC, the front flares aren't that bad. Is there one in nice shape and not chipped up? If the 3 piece spoiler was painted on the car, don't disturb it. That could make a mess.
     
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  8. JD Z

    JD Z Veteran Member

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    The corner tail fin is connected by two bolts in the trunk. I had to loosen them to align it before, but didn’t remove it.

    There is no paint connecting the trunk to the fin so it should come loose. Is there anything besides the two bolts holding the corner fins on?
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019

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