1981 Camaro Z28

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by MP81, Dec 21, 2017.

  1. Zspoiler

    Zspoiler Veteran Member

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    I would also look at some HP books about the Q-jet .They run from 12-20.00 dollars .Also I have heard 1980-1 Q-jets have had some issues
     
  2. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    I do have Cliff Ruggle's book (that I borrowed from a buddy of mine), so that's what I referred to when rebuilding the carb. Said friend also rebuilt his Quadrajet in his '84 Scottsdale...and now has a Fitech.

    I'm hoping that setting the float to the correct height will solve the running issues - the pull clip could have been an issue in the future, but I doubt it was one right now. But at least it seems to be in the correct spot now, too.

    We shall see! Well, that is, once I get around to putting it back together (again) and back on the car (again). I'm hoping whatever vacuum leak that was readily apparent there is gone, as well.
     
  3. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    Pulled the Idle Air Bleed Valve out to check the O-rings since, for whatever reason, I didn't the first time. Upper O-ring looked mostly fine, but the lower one was a bit...flat:

    [​IMG]

    Upper O-rings - new (left) vs old (right):
    [​IMG]

    Lower O-rings - new (left) vs old (right) - can see how much "flatter" the old one was:
    [​IMG]
     
  4. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    Carb's back on the car - doesn't run perfect by any means, but boy is it night and day compared to what it was like the last time. Now I think I can work with this and get it dialed in (hopefully).

    Don't seem to have the vacuum leak (as audibly) like it did last time, nor does it smell rich as hell. Seems to idle a bit low, but maybe that could be due to the idle air bleed being back to the "stock" setting. Need to get the dwell reading to work and get that all tweaked.

    Seems like occasionally it has a really low idle - especially if you flick that "lever" (can't find the proper term) down between the choke and the main casting. If you don't, the idle seems to stay high. When the idle gets that low, the check engine light comes on, but no codes were showing up when I checked after shutting the car off (with the CEL still lit when I did).
     
  5. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    This was back on the 9th:

    Looks like I can finally update this, even just slightly - got the front end up in the air today, so I could pull the O2 sensor out and make a true extension harness and not have to cut up the new O2 that I bought for the car when I put the headers in.

    I also pulled the front wheels off to check on why the brakes were basically screeching any time I used them the last time I drove the car - the RF inner pad's squealer (or more like "screecher") was touching the rotor. I've still got about 1/4" of pad left, so I bent the tab back a bit so I can run them down a touch more.

    From today:

    Got around to tackling this today - this will be light years better than a simply-extended O2 sensor, and will allow me to use a sensor that isn't a questionable number of decades old...with the side benefit of not turning the sensor wiring into a giant spiral. I can get this "permanently" mounted into the vehicle and just disconnect right at the sensor end.

    So I probably should order a new coolant sensor for the top, maybe.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    Installed the new O2 sensor today...and the car literally sat at 700 RPM for 20 minutes. It never jumped up and went all over the place like it used to. It idled flawlessly. Rev it up, and they came back down - they didn't hang up.

    My assumption is that the old O2 (picture below) was reading lean, so that "jump" in RPM I always noticed was the car going into closed loop, where it would just throw fuel into the carb to "correct" it, causing the revs to spike up, and hang.

    [​IMG]

    Once it's a touch warmer, I'll get coverage back on the car and take it out and see if it truly solved the issues!
     
    roadrace2 likes this.

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