302 vs 350 Dilema

Discussion in 'High Performance Modifications' started by Drg racr, Dec 26, 2004.

  1. Drg racr

    Drg racr Veteran Member

    Mar 9, 2000
    Bellevue, MI USA
    I'm trying to decide which motor to use next year.
    I have in this corner a 67 Chevy 302 (destroked 327), 11.0/1 TRW pistons, Crower .507 cam, forged crank (from 63 283), the short block is all assembled, no heads or top end.
    In the other corner I have a 79 350, complete running motor that needs rebuilding. I ran this motor in the car and got a 13.50 @103mph with the rings shot.

    My question; do I finish the 302 and hope the small cubes push the car into the 11's or redo the 350 and see what it does?
    It's going into the 67 Camaro with a T-350, 4.10 gear, 3500 stall conv, 3210lbs with driver.
  2. 1981coupe400ci

    1981coupe400ci Veteran Member

    Dec 22, 2002
    i'd go with the 302.. theres a word why you should use the 302 in the 67 camaro i just cant think of what that word is...
  3. Air_Adam

    Air_Adam Veteran Member

    Z/28? [​IMG]
  4. ZS10

    ZS10 Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Jan 18, 2003
    BC, Canada
    302. Its just the right thing to do.

  5. engine

    engine Veteran Member

    Feb 25, 2001
    The ghetto of Brooklyn
    from what I've read (no first hand experience) is that the 302 is a high winder, where in a street car, ou have to rev that sucker pretty high all the time to get a lot out of it. It was originally offered int he Z28 cars for the SCCA races, and all those engines were revved to the moon all the time. Also, in order to get the full effect of the 302, you most definately want a manual trasmission. If tis is for your 76 with 4-speed, it might as well be a blast to drive...just not sure about puttin' around town.

    [This message has been edited by engine (edited December 26, 2004).]
  6. Mwilson

    Mwilson Veteran Member

    Is the 302 original for your car? If so leave it in the corner prevent hole in block!
    If its not original and you just want as much power as possible still leave the 302 in the corner
    but if you just want a 302 under the hood stick it in!
  7. manifoldsrme

    manifoldsrme Veteran Member

    Aug 2, 2003
    Marshalltown, IA
    Ive built them all, and all the short stroke motors need to compete is more gear and better valve springs because they do have to be spun high! But a 302 (or 327) above 7500 rpm screamin towards 8 or 9, is a sound like no other. It will make you yawn at any long stroke engine below 7000. Someone will jump in and praise the 350 (as they always do), no substitute for cubic inches yadda yadda yadda. BS. RPM is a hell of a substitue for cubes. Just dont build the 302 and shift it at anything below 7500 rpm, then you will wish you had built the 350. Grow balls of steel and let it rev, and you will never build another 350. Not to mention the perma grin you will have the first time you see that needle fly by 8000 rpm and not slowing down. You always wonder, "damn, how high will that thing actually go"?
  8. night rider

    night rider Veteran Member

    Aug 6, 2002
    Bremen, Ga
    I'm a big fan of the short stroke/big bore engines. I love the little 302's and 327's

    With that said. If it's a street car, pass the 302 up and go with a 350 or 383

    If it's a weekend toy or race car where you aint worried at fuel mileage, parts lift span, etc go 302 and gear the hell out of it. 4.10's aint gonna cut it with a strong 302 though. I would go with 4.56's at least.

    I know the whole "no substitute for cubic inches "

    But look at the math of an engine. HP = TQ X RPM/5252 useing that you'll see there's 2 ways of building power.
    1) increse the Torque of the engine (longer stroke helps with that)
    2) increse the RPM where peak is hit.

    If done right (gears, stall, parts) I pick #2 for a weekend toy/race car

    Strong bottom end, strong rods, forged pistons, strong valve springs. And let her rev. Built for peak at around 7000-8000, and shift alittle above that. Use a gear combo that will have you crossing the traps as close to peak as you can (7000-8000 rpm)

    Have a few sets of valve springs on hand. That will be your most borke parts. Took up that high they stress faster, and become weaker
  9. rustbucket79

    rustbucket79 Veteran Member

    You've got the wrong gearing and definately insufficient stall to work with the 302 if 11's are truly your goal. Sell the 302 to someone else and use the cash to build the 350. Stroking it to a 383 would be better, and building a 400 would be better yet. (this is all in reference to working with your current drivetrain components)

    An example, I built 2 identical engines, had to start with the 327 because it was a true high revving race engine blah blah blah..youth. 4000+ stall, 26" slicks, still needed 4.88's to go anywhere and get out of the 13 sec bracket. Best ET 12.7 @ 110, 8000 max RPM.
    Years later built a 408 using same heads, same cam, less compression, same intake, headers, stall (hit 5000 with the big engine) same slicks, 3.42 gears. With no tuning the first night out it hit 12.1's and by mid season I squeeked into the 11's. With changes to the car, camming, etc. this same 408 small block has run 11.3's locally and a best of 10.99 at sea level. I will never build another small cube engine. Sure it was fun to rev it to 8000, but the 408 see's 6500 TOPS, so you can imagine how much longer the 408 will live between servicing.

    With the driveline components you currently have, build for torque, not horsepower. You'll be quicker.

    Custom Auto, your source for quality machine work, cores and new parts at competetive pricing right here in British Columbia 1-888-563-4050
    A Canadian, EH? (with a 10 second street car)
  10. onovakind67

    onovakind67 Veteran Member

    Jul 8, 2001
    Fairfield, CA

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