327 Camshaft Recommendations

Discussion in 'High Performance Modifications' started by '71StreetZ, Oct 13, 2018.

  1. C4Racer

    C4Racer Veteran Member

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    Oct 26, 2018
    Didn’t realize you had already installed a cam. Missed that somehow. Anyway that’s great. Sounds like a nice fit for a great motor. My first hot rod motor was a 327 that made 400ish HP in a 63 impala. 200cc sportsman heads and a 234 hyd flag tappet cam with Rhodes lifters. Great motor. My first hot rod motor.

    The next grind up in the voodoo series has promise for my 406. It’s maybe slightly on the small side with 231/239 duration but the lift is very good for the duration numbers and it would idle really nicely and be easy on springs. Very good option. Thanks for the idea - I hadn’t looked at those. Better than the off the shelf comp grinds which seem to be 20-30 years old at this point for the most part.
     
  2. '71StreetZ

    '71StreetZ Member

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    Aug 18, 2017
    @C4Racer the guy who designed the Lunati Voodoo range also designed the Comp Xtreme Energy cams and the Voodoo loves are supposed to open the valve quicker and let it hang to get more overall curtain area with the same duration ive been eying them for about a year now and I’m super happy with it everything was super quality and I’ve seen a lot of racers run the roller or solid Lunati stuff
     
  3. C4Racer

    C4Racer Veteran Member

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    My engine builder buddy is high on them and that designer. He started ultradyne I guess. Didn’t know he was the original designer for the comp series. I guess makes sense because those have been around for 20 years +
    Not exactly state of the art. But still useful in some combinations.
    My current cam is a flat tappet Xtreme energy. I’m hoping a newer profile with faster Ramps and 030 or so more lift with 5-10deg less duration at 050 will give me equivalent to slightly more power and rpm range and improve idle and drive ability. Im also moving from a 3200 stall auto to a T56 so want a bit more drivable low end. Moving to roller helps a ton anyway. You can only move the valve so fast using a flat tappet lifter.
     
  4. '71StreetZ

    '71StreetZ Member

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    I stuck with a flat tappet because I wasn’t gonna swing twice to three time for a roller but they are a superior cam if you can go for it! The man pedal is the way to go, nothing wrong with an auto (especially for racing) but for a cruiser/street machine a stick is way fun and then you have a reason not to let anybody drive your car!
     
  5. C4Racer

    C4Racer Veteran Member

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    I'm more of a race around a road course guy these days than down a drag-strip anyway. And I've always preferred manual. Most of my fun cars have been manual.
     
  6. 1980RS

    1980RS Veteran Member

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    MN
    I am a sucker for solid lifter cams, but it is nice sometimes having an hyd. cam and not have to mess around at the track with lashing the valves.
     
  7. jeff swisher

    jeff swisher Veteran Member

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    I must have got lucky my 350" with 186 heads with stock seats and stock 1.94-1.50 valves with a Herbert 235-245@ .050 solid cam never needed the valves reset.
    110 seat pressure 3/8 screw in studs without the nut and crane 1.5 Gold rockers.
    2 years of daily driving and lash stayed spot on. I drove 25 miles 1 way to work each day.and on 24 hour call.

    I never understood lash changing unless something is moving or wearing out.
    That cam was pulled and replaced with a 280H comp magnum hydraulic because the solid got 8 MPG and the 280H got 15.
    The MPG was killing me .
    Buddy put the solid out of my car into his sons roundy round with lifters going back on the same lobes. 2 seasons with it and no issues.

    I want to know what is happening to all the guys engines that need to constantly adjust lash???

    OH I even ran oil restrictors .060"
     
  8. C4Racer

    C4Racer Veteran Member

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    Oct 26, 2018
    may depend on use and size of the cam. I had a 383 with a solid roller 251/254 cam with over .6" of lift that I ran on the street but wasn't in a daily driver. I also drag raced that car so it saw quite a few full throttle runs to 7K rpm in high gear - that's a load on the motor for sure. That was a heavy car but ran 118mph. Motor was AFR heads, fully ported and had a stud girdle and rev kit. I wouldn't say I was adjusting the lash all the time, but I ran through it 2-3 times a year just for piece of mind. Nothing was ever drastically off but there were small adjustments to be made here and there.

    I also had a street car that I did autox and road course events with - 3rd gen Camaro with a solid roller 355 superRam motor, also AFR heads - no stud girdle, no rev kit, roller rockers. That one wasn't a revver - made over 400ft-lbs of tq at the wheels from 2500-4500rpm and was a shift at 6K car. I drag raced it occasionally too. Ran high 12's at 108. Probably logged 8K miles a year in it during that time. I ran the valves maybe once a year - those changed less than the 383. And yes I had both those motors at the same time. I was in the garage a lot back then! Ha.
     
  9. '71StreetZ

    '71StreetZ Member

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    Aug 18, 2017
    Most of the guys with solid cams aren’t driving them every day and when they do the flog the hell out of it so the lash will change slightly plus with the heat cycles it can loosen stuff up hyd. Cams are nice cause it’s set and forget plus you eliminate the noise at idle and you don’t have t mess with any lash at the track and it’s a little easier on the valve train (that’s why I went hydraulic)
    Solid cams will put hair on your chest and lead in your pencil
     
  10. Lou6t4gto

    Lou6t4gto Veteran Member

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    Ocala, Fla
    I had a 327 w pop ups, the alum heads, headers, open plenum manifold- 4 speed and 4.56 gears in my 1960 Corvette. I used the 30/30 cam and could not have been Happier ! you Can't Beat the "Sound", I shifted at close to 7000 rpm. that car was like a frog out of the hole. yea, 50 year old tech. I'd Chose It every time.
     
    G72Zed and jeff swisher like this.

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