468 79 Z28

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by legierk, Jun 11, 2014.

  1. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Got started on some things: (Bold is updated)

    Bleed brakes again (Noticed odd wear pattern on rear discs when removing. Will have to investigate.)
    Change thermostat and water pump/add water wetter (Removed housing, hoses and painted new water pump)
    Change axle studs/change gear oil (Cleaned and prepped axles for new studs. Cleaned cover.
    Tie up/fix wiring at fusebox (interfering with clutch operation)
    Re adjust rocker arms/valve lash (Not started yet. The loose lash on 1 or 2 valves may be contributing to oil pressure issue.)
    Change engine oil (Done. Notice small amount of oil dripping off bellhousing. Not going to panic. Will retorque oil pan bolts and see what happens. Going with 10w-40 this time vice 10w-30 to help oil pressure situation.
    Fix paint chip
    Spray all hinges again
    Aim headlights

    That's all for today.
     
  2. MotionClone

    MotionClone Veteran Member

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    Whats the oil pressure issue you're having? Couple more days and I will likely be dealing with similar situations.

    Must be a great feeling driving her down the road though.:cool:
     
  3. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Yeah, the 25 or so miles I got to cruise were great.

    Oil pressure drops to like 10psi at idle when fully warmed up. Cold it's like 50psi. I don't think there is a bearing clearance issue. But you never know. I'm just gonna try the 10-40 and see if that helps. Cruising the pressure stays around 40-45, so it's all good.
     
  4. hot72rod

    hot72rod Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Legierk, I have the same problem with my 71. When I first crank it up, it will hold 50 psi but once the chock turns off psi will drop to around 20 at idle. Now if I give it a little gas it will climb back up to 45 psi.

    I was thinking bad oil pump, but I know the PO had just put a new cam in before I purchased it. I also know it didn't have the issue until after he pump the cam in.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016
  5. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Made good progress.

    Bleed brakes again. Not done yet.
    Change thermostat and water pump/add water wetter . DONE but skipped water pump swap for now.
    Change axle studs/change gear oil DONE!
    Tie up/fix wiring at fusebox DONE!
    Re adjust rocker arms/valve lash . Not done yet.
    Fix paint chip. Have to wait until it warms back up.
    Spray all hinges again
    Aim headlights, DONE!

    Drove another 20 miles. Filled her up with 93 octane. I put in the Royal Purple ICE stuff instead of Water Wetter. Well, it appears to work, because temps stayed at 190, instead of 200. Car drove great. Squealing the tires by accident.

    Will take her for an alignment this week sometimes, work permitting. I am not too keen on just dropping it off at this place. I'm not even sure they would know how to raise the hood. I want to also take my fender covers. Wonder if they would use them?

    Will post some pics soon after I give her another bath. Last time everything was wet and the bath really just got the dust off, because as soon as I drove around a little, got all muddy. Oh well. Not a trailer queen.
     
  6. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Glad to see you are on the road!! That cowl is HUGE! Can you see?

    Thank goodness you didn't lose that wheel.....that was a close one....

    Did you rebuild the rear? If so you need to break it in for 500 miles or so before you do any burnouts. Also should do a few short 10-15 mile drive cycles, letting it cool in between and then going out again....
     
  7. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Been awhile. Finally got to go get her aligned.

    [​IMG]

    I didn't get the specific numbers, but as far as camber, all he has to do was put 1/4" shims on the left forward a-arm. I had it pretty close.

    He did point out that the rear axle is "cocked" about 1/16" where the right rear is further back than the left rear. Might be able to fix it by loosening the axle mounts and trying to shift it, or doing the same with the subframe mounts. That is way low on the priority list.

    Found a brake fluid leak at the rear distribution block, where the flex line attaches to the hard lines on the axle. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement distribution block? Searched Summit, classic industries...no luck.

    Still fighting a slight header leak and lifter ticking. Yes, gets confusing chasing them, but the headers are easier, so might just put some different gaskets in there and see what that does. Then I'll be better able to diagnose the lifter ticking. (I have reason to believe the #8 cylinder exhaust lifter is not staying pumped up.)

    Drivers side door handle is cracked and getting worse. Will have to replace that or one day it may break off.

    Not 100% happy with how the clutch feels, but I don't think it is a problem. My main issue putting it together was to ensure I had the 1/8-1/4" play in the throwout bearing. There is about 2" of slop in the clutch pedal travel at the top.

    Otherwise, everything is fine. Cooling system finally purged and it stays at about 180. 190 at stop lights.

    So new checklist:

    1) Fix Header leak
    2) Fix brakeline leak
    3) Change out door handle
    4) Continue to investigate lifter issue
    5) Continue to tune carburetor

    What am I missing?
     
  8. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Before anybody yells, I do understand not to make too many changes at once, but in this case, still trying to establish a baseline:

    1) Staggered primary jetting. Put a 76 in for cylinders 2 and 4. Left the 75 at 1 and 3. Secondary bowl still has 78s on both sides. Haven't opened bowl yet. Staggering by 1 jet size is probably not going to make any difference, but if I do go into the secondary bowl, I will have a pair of jets to match the front now.
    2) Changed accelerator pump nozzle in primary from 35 to 31 (stock is 28) to alleviate black puff when throttle is hit. Problem is, even with the 35, it still has a hole on initial throttle stab. So,
    3) I also changed the primary accelerator pump cam from the green to the blue. More shot up front with no delay. If it still puffs black, I'll have to go back to the stock 28 nozzle and play with only the cams. So far I have put them in hole 1, and haven't used hole 2 yet. My understanding is that hole 2 is the same as hole 1, just "delayed", which would not help my issue (on paper anyway).
    4) Put in a 9.5 power valve since my cruise rpm vacuum is 15". Although I have no evidence to support it, I think it may help cover up some of the hole on initial throttle stab. I will monitor the AFR under acceleration to see if this is helping.
    5) Since my cruise rpm is 2000, I put 1 light spring in the mechanical advance. So now it has 1 light and 1 medium. Just trying to get the timing to come in quicker.
    6) Backed off on the vacuum advance diaphragm 2 turns. My understanding is that this will limit the amount of total vacuum advance the engine will see.

    So a whole bunch of changes. Some other things accomplished:

    Tightened rear brake hard lines where they connect to flex line on axle. This actually involved removing the junction block and shimming it up with a few washers so I could get the flare wrench on the tube nut.

    Got some JB weld so I could put it under the driver's door handle that is cracking. Temporary fix until a new one can be installed.

    Re-secured some wiring under car.

    First task on fire up is recheck total timing. Will stick with 34* for now. And will set total at 2500 rpm instead of 3000 rpm. Stock bushings in distributor limit mech advance to 21*. Should be OK, but have 25* and 28* bushings included to play with.

    Rained a lot today so it may be Sunday before I can get out and see if there is any change at all.
     
  9. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Needed to tackle the rear brake line leak at the T on the rear axle. I replaced the shiny stainless flex hose for a factory one, and the leak is still there, so it is the hard line going to the passenger side. Will get one tomorrow and replace.

    Since car was up in the air, I decided to install subframe connectors. Started yesterday and finished this morning. My welds leave a lot to be desired, but they ain't comin off. Bolted the front and welded the back.

    Not a good pic, but at least you can see the brand.
    [​IMG]

    Fronts bolted:
    [​IMG]

    Rear welded to frame rail.
    [​IMG]

    I also put some JB weld behind this crack. It probably won't hold, but will buy me some time.
    [​IMG]

    Still haven't fired her up after all carb changes. Don't like firing motor with it on ramps like it is. Will have to wait until I get brake leak handled.

    Ordered the pressure bleeder from Summit. Heard good things. Will probably forego the chains to hold the top on and just use a C clamp like a lot of reviews said. More later this week.
     
  10. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    FWIW, I have been battling brake line leaks at the rear axle. Changed lines 3 times so far. Anyhow, trying to make it to a cruise in this Saturday, but not sure how things or going to turn out. Should be able to finally cure it though.

    Got the SSBC adjustable proportioning valve. Dad is driving around town now finding adapter fittings, but looks like we will have to cut and reflare a few lines to get it installed. Not in a hurry, as car will stop, but bias is way off. Front rotors aren't even shiny yet.

    Really about to pull trigger on FITech EFI setup. Will give carb a few more attempts to fall in line, but not gonna mess with it indefinitely. MTF.
     

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