468 79 Z28

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by legierk, Jun 11, 2014.

  1. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Dad and I took her out for a cruise yesterday. Didn't even wash her.

    Ran OK, but rear was making some noise. Going to remove rear cover and investigate. Surely a Cclip didn't come out and the disc brake rotor held the axle in? Will let you guys know when I find out what is going on. Never the less, we drove home at 80 mph.

    Broke down and ordered the FITech Meanstreat EFI unit. Says backordered, but should be in a few weeks. The Command center fuel station, however, says it won't arrive until late May. Hope that is not the case, because that will be cutting it close for Power Tour.

    Also ordered some more lifters. The lifter noise is still there, so I figured I'd just bite it and see if that is the problem. At the very worst, I have an extra set of lifters.

    Mostly what I got done this weekend was installing a SSBC adjustable proportioning valve. What a pain trying to flare SS brake line. The rear line is still slightly leaking at the prop valve, but I will fix it in due course. On our cruise yesterday, I didn't really adjust it very much, so was unable to see what effect, if any, it will have on the braking issue.

    Otherwise, everything went fine. I knew there would be bugs to work out, and that sure enough is the case. Will post some photos when we get a nice sunny day.
     
  2. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Rearend looks OK. Will button back up tomorrow and put some extra limited slip additive in it to keep the noise (and my heart rate) down.
     
  3. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Rear end buttoned up. Used Royal Purple gear lube AND added the friction modifier. We'll see how this works.

    Replacement lifters came today. Took this pic for my dad, who, the last time bought a set of lifters, costs about $25 for 16. I like to call this "How to burn $400".

    [​IMG]

    Didn't feel like draining radiator and beginning to remove intake to install. Will start on that fresh in the next day or two. Deciding again whether or not I want to go ahead and install the new water pump at this time. Already put it off twice, so maybe this is a sign.
     
  4. Zspoiler

    Zspoiler Veteran Member

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    You said that you liked the SCCA cars of the 70.s.Did you look at the IMSA Camel GT AAGT race cars of that period.Some of those were really wild .In this car is big block powered like yours. I have also built some thing similar.I got the nose back in the mid 80`s from Fibermotive of Florida .And I was going buy the wings and the flairs. But they were discontinued. Mine is also a 1979 and I l have lived in the greater Seattle/ Tacoma . We may of come across each other. You have a Very nice car there and you do very nice work.And wish you continued luck on your build.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
  5. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Made good progress this weekend. Tore everything down Thurs and Fri, and today began re-installing stuff.

    1) New water pump installed. Was running at 200. Will be interesting to see what this one will do. I took off a made in US cast iron high flow pump, and this is a made in China aluminum pump. How long will the bearings last? LOL.

    2) Meticulously inspected/cleaned lifter bores. Installed new lifters. The previous valve adjustment procedure was WRONG! With the intake off, I could see that when at TDC (#1 intake and exhaust on the base circle of cam), #6 was NOT on base circle. So, I had them adjusted wrong this whole time. Anyhow, this time I used the Howard's Cam procedure. Feeling much better about it.

    3) You've heard the adage, "The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result"? Well, that applies to the stud girdle. I went through all the rocker arm studs, and replaced ones that the rocker nuts wouldn't thread on easily. Then I installed my old school stud girdle. I figured, with this cam at .600" lift, it couldn't hurt. And since I have been fighting valve adjustment issues, this should make it rock solid.

    4) Re-tighten brake fittings in proportioning valve. Still haven't dialed in front brakes. This is a work in progress.

    5) Ran 1/4" rubber vent line from engine compartment to fuel tank in preparation for the FiTech EFI unit (ships Monday!). The vent line at the tank was just capped. The vent line will hook into the fuel Command Center (is what FiTech calls it). Also along the lines of prepping for the EFI, I am wondering if my drop base air cleaner will work with it. Looks like it should, but I pulled out my old flat one just in case. However, if I am forced to use that, I will have to have another (3" or 4") air cleaner instead of the 5" I have now. I have about an inch clearance now and that is with a 6" cowl hood!

    6) Cleaned and prepped intake for re-installation. Could have started that, but since EFI throttle body won't be here until about Wednesday, no hurry. Will do it tomorrow when I am fresh.

    7) Fuel Command Center is seriously backordered. Right now they are saying May 25th. Whoa. I certainly hope it won't take that long.

    8) Will begin running wires tomorrow (after intake install) for the EFI unit. That way, when it comes in, I just make 4 wiring connections and am done! (Still can't fire it up without the fuel pump i.e. Command Center).

    9) Subframe connectors are awesome. Car body will NOT flex at all. (I found this out because I noticed 1 jack stand wasn't touching car. Frame was still flat as a board!)

    A side note...every time I disconnect the battery to do various jobs, I have to reprogram the stereo unit. Kind of a pain, but I am really getting quick at it now.

    Did some research, and think I am going to spring for the ACDelco RapidFire #2 spark plugs. The ones I have are not old, but have been taking a beating with me tuning on the carburetor lately.

    That's all for now.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    FiTech EFI install done. Can't fire it up until I get the Command Center fuel pump though.

    Need a 5/16" air cleaner stud. Holley is 1/4".
    [​IMG]

    Non-destructive mounting of the control unit. Wire go into the hole under the lower dash and it will pull out if I need it. Put a small piece of double sided tape on the bottom, to keep it from shifting around.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    Scored a set of BBC aluminum heads today. Was gonna post a pic, but they are BBC aluminum heads....LOL. Will go in next motor, so really irrelevant to this build.
     
  8. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    FiTech and other thoughts

    Well, no update on whether or not the FCC (Fuel Command Center) will ship earlier than May 25. Everything is ready to go, but without the fuel pump, I am just sitting.

    So today I changed a few things on the carb (see below) and am pretty sure I will put it back on for the time being. Just disconnect a few weathertight connectors, install carb and hook up fuel line. Pretty simple.

    In no hurry since rain here Friday and Saturday, and it will probably be too wet to go cruising Sunday, but at least when the water dries up and will be able to roll.

    Carb changes trying to clear a slight stumble on acceleration and rich condition on acceleration.
    1) Replaced primary jets from 75/76 (staggered) to 74/75.
    2) Changed stock secondary jets from 78/78 to 74/75.
    3) Changed previously installed 10.5 power valve to 7.5.
    4) Changed secondary pump cam to Green cam in hole 1. (Primary is blue cam in hole 1).
    5) Changed secondary squirter nozzle from .35 to .31. (Stock is .28. Primary already had the .31.)

    I had previously made all those changes to the primary only, and didn't mess with the secondary. Which cleared up the issues about "half way", which makes sense. So I figured why not make the changes to the "other half" and see if that eliminates the issues altogether. Hell I may like it so much, I run it on Power Tour (but doubt it).

    Fixed ALL brake line leaks, which were minor, but still had to be eliminated. Not as easy as you would think, having to flare SS lines and such. So still haven't been able to test/tune/dial in the new adjustable proportioning valve.

    Been reading a lot about tuning the FiTech EFI units. The Chevelles.com forum has a lot of info, but not much here. Appears they are leading the way on tuning these.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2016
  9. MotionClone

    MotionClone Veteran Member

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    Sucks having to wait for parts...especially that long!!

    Im dealing with a slight stumble on acceleration in my 468. I have an AED/Holley 850. I got a .35 squirter on primary in mine and think I need to jump to the next size up. What are your running for timing?
     
  10. legierk

    legierk Veteran Member

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    I had a .35 in my primary at one point also. Then, when I went to get it aligned and the guy was pulling it on the rack, every time he would hit the throttle there was a little puff of black smoke. That is the sure sign that the nozzle was too big. Additionally, even with the .35 nozzle, the stumble never totally went away.

    If you are keeping the carb, I'd highly recommend getting the pump cam assortment. I think the cam did more to change the stumble than the nozzle. But, I haven't tested it with the new changes to the secondary yet (obviously).

    I have the timing at 34* at 2500 RPM, all in. (the advance doesn't increase beyond 2500 rpm). I forget what it fell out at at idle, but I think it was around 14* or so. Didn't check it with the vacuum advance hooked up, but I was playing with the adjustable diaphragm in the canister. More to follow on that.

    The reason for 2500 rpm (vice 3000 or higher) is that my cruise rpm is about 2300-2500 at 70-75 mph. My understanding is that if the advance isn't all in (at the cruise rpm), I'd be getting a surge type issue, which I have never experienced with this combo.
     

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