75 Bumblebee LT4 Gen V swap

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by SPG, Oct 7, 2018.

  1. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    Because I work for a bank, I got a 3 day weekend, I took it upon myself to start gutting the car, I also had some people over on Saturday so I took the hood off while others were around. Tomorrow I plan on taking the front quarters and the nose off so the only thing left is whats needed to make the car turn on. From there I'll separate the engine from the car and flip it over.

    Interior was relatively easy to gut as someone did it before me, they put in some real garbage sound deadening thats basically shingles, there is a knock-off boom mat on the drive side that I can't get off (just requires a lot of effort, it will eventually come off) I worry it's hiding some surprises.
    The rust around the rear window is worse than I initially thought it was, but it still doesn't seem like it will be a huge pain to deal with, I'll find out more once the window comes off.

    There is also a nice huge hole in my rear panel that the rear seat hid (thought you would have saw if you looked in the trunk) I also noticed a panel looked...off, I'll take pictures tomorrow as I ran out of light and I want some opinions on it. I just want to make sure it's not something thats messed up.

    IMG_20200215_160747.jpg IMG_20200215_165150.jpg IMG_20200216_174240.jpg IMG_20200216_174246.jpg IMG_20200216_174252.jpg IMG_20200216_174312.jpg IMG_20200216_174613.jpg

    Also, I didn't know how to lean the hood, I put it on it's side, is that fine? or would anyone suggest a better way to store it. I just don't want to be bending it by mistake.
     
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  2. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    took off the front top and bottom clip, along with the headlights, I wanted to do the fenders but it looks like it bolts up to the radiator, and I think the bumper does as well. I saw 6 bolts, but I didn't see how to take off 4 of them.
    IMG_20200217_141108.jpg IMG_20200217_150208.jpg
    The bottom front clip looks pretty screwed up, I might buy a new one, might fix it with fiber glass, I don't know yet.
    IMG_20200217_151645.jpg
    And here is a picture of the giant hole along with the odd part that I'm not sure if it's OEM or someone bent it as the other side doesn't look like that
    IMG_20200217_155625.jpg IMG_20200217_160146.jpg IMG_20200217_160156.jpg

    Either way thats progress, not a lot of progress, but it's better than literally nothing

    EDIT - I was wrong about the bumper, I'll take them off tomorrow after I get home from work if I don't feel drained from the travel.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2020
  3. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    I got the driver fender off
    the bolt on the underside near the wheel well would not come off and spin freely, I don't know if thats normal, or oem, but getting it off made me bend the fender before I noticed I could wedge a spanner in the subframe
    so now it's got even more dents I need to fix....but this time they're my fault
    so that kind of pisses me off....but thats just how it is sometimes I guess
    IMG_20200219_184435.jpg IMG_20200219_184559.jpg

    Still couldn't get the bumper off though
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2020
  4. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    That sucks, you may want to hit some of the fasteners with WD40 or something similar, a day or so before you try and remove, also some of them have cagenuts that break and then just spin, you will want to buy plenty for reassembly , fun times!
     
  5. Jodi

    Jodi Veteran Member

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    5116bec4cb35a66af6155cc93285e9cd.jpg
    Just a little humour... After 30+ years of wrenching I don't even ask anymore like the picture.
    I go straight to the last step... lol.
    Hope you get your bumper off.
     
  6. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    I was very close to using a cut off disc on the fender bolt.

    I have been blasting everything I expect to remove with wd, for the most part after the first pull they come off relatively easy. Only a handful of bolts have give me issues.

    The battery tray looks like it's welded itself dead due to holding moisture, that panel might not survive.

    I've been blasting wd on the 4 body bolts religiously the past week so I can separate the subframe next weekend. Fingers crossed it doesn't fight me
     
  7. Jodi

    Jodi Veteran Member

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    The battery tray seldom survive due to the acid from battery.
    Mine was so heavily pitted I had to get another one. Not that I needed it, because I relocated my battery to the trunk.

    Have you tried a different brand of penetrating fluid such as Liquid Wrench or Moov it, this products are actually penetrating oil vs the wd that's more of a lubricant (unless there is a new blend that I'm not aware of).
     
  8. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    I have not, mainly because wd40 is what I already had on hand and I'm too lazy to buy better stuff.
    But yes, it's mainly a lubricant, not penetrating oil.
    due to recent experience, I'll probably buy better oil this weekend for the subframe bolts because I know those will not come out without a fight since they're almost 50 years old and they have never been touched their entire life.
     
  9. Gasoholic

    Gasoholic Veteran Member

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    Definitely lube the sub frame bolts. A straw works to get it into the channel.
    I kept spraying mine while I was doing other stuff and let them soak real good. I use PB Blaster.
    For the front sub frame I was able to get 5 out of six off without braking the cages or bolts.

    Enjoy the journey :)
     
    SPG and mrfleet12 like this.
  10. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    IMG_20200220_160710.jpg IMG_20200220_160752.jpg
    Got everything off that is connected to the firewall/body so we can pull the sub frame apart (aside from the bits that you need for the car to run)
    passenger side was a million times easier to take off than the driver thankfully. Kind of helped it was missing a few bolts.
    I didn't take nearly enough pictures, some bolts had washers, some didn't
    I kept notes on how many shimes were used though as my body lines were pretty good from the factory.

    2 were on the upper and lower of the driver side
    3 were on the upper passenger side, 2 on the lower side
    writing that down here is more for me than you guys in the event I miss place my notes.

    Anyways, battery tray, rusty as expected BUT it was in pretty good shape to save, only had one hole in it, was pretty pitted.
    but it's a battery tray
    I'll survive.

    my great grandfathers hammer came in handy knocking out the bolts on the bumper.
    Other than that, sorry for spamming my thread, hopefully I have more pictures next weekend of pulling the engine out, and maybe putting it on a wood jig to flip it over......but probably just pull the engine out.
    In the meantime, I'll shoot the subframe bolts with penetrating oil

    alright guys, engine swap is done, only took 5 minutes to do
    IMG_20200220_160752.png
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2020
    dave@ztech likes this.

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