77 Type LT Budget Build

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by ZerroHalfcup, Apr 3, 2019.

  1. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

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    Can’t quite tell from the pic but as far as I’m aware all of the full floorpans on the market include new braces so you won’t need to worry about it unless the section of rocker that it attaches to has been pulled out of shape?
     
  2. ZerroHalfcup

    ZerroHalfcup New Member

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    I was looking at getting the Sherman full passenger side floor pan from Jegs, part# 455-697-46CFR. This one doesn't have the braces but my front brace that runs from rocker to rocker is fine. Since that's straight, in order to save a few bucks, I'm currently planning on ordering this Sherman pan unless persuaded otherwise.

    If I remember right, I don't think it was pulled off the rocker. It may just be the angle it's made to sit in the car but it just looked a little odd to me. I'll crawl under there tonight and post some more pictures of where it connects to the rocker as well as some different angles of the top of it.
     
  3. perkalator

    perkalator Veteran Member

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    Hey. Just a word of advice. I would stop cutting out till you get your floor pans. You can get full sides from many places i got mine from ricks camaro. They fit well. But from what i saw when i did my floors you had to buy rear seat section and front. If you get to far up in the tunnel or raised are between the front and rear seat pan it may be best to get a full floor.
     
  4. ZerroHalfcup

    ZerroHalfcup New Member

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    I've been keeping that in mind. The pictures of the floors in post #37 is how I bought the car, a previous owner hacked all of that out unfortunately. The passenger side front seat section was full of rivet and rust holes so that has been the only thing I have cut out that I currently do not have a new panel for since I know that whole panel is being replaced. I plan on doing a full half floor on the passenger side that runs toe board seam to rear seat pan because the tunnel and driver still has enough that I can salvage. I do however, have a new toe board and inner rocker stored away inside. Thank you for the input though, that is something I need to keep top of mind so that I don't get ahead of myself and cut out more than necessary.
     
  5. ZerroHalfcup

    ZerroHalfcup New Member

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    Sorry for the poor lighting but below are more pictures of the brace.

    20190729_200002.jpg 20190729_200107.jpg 20190729_200205.jpg 20190729_200309.jpg

    All of the pictures below here are where it attaches to the passenger side rocker panel.

    20190729_200416.jpg 20190729_200428.jpg 20190729_200503.jpg 20190729_200508.jpg
     
  6. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

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    It does look a little tweaked in the 3rd and 4th pics, kind of like the area by the outer seat mount has been pushed down. Perhaps the previous owner beat on the floorpan a bit when doing the dodgy repairs.

    I wouldn’t worry about it as long as the rocker isn’t twisted or pulled out shape but break the tape measure and look closely at your door to rocker alignment if you want to double check.

    Would definitely go full floorpans in your case, using the partials will require twice as much welding, way more work to fit up and the end result won’t be as nice.
     
  7. ZerroHalfcup

    ZerroHalfcup New Member

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    The rocker seems straight but I'll get back under there this weekend and start measuring everything and compare it to the driver side. Full pans are the next thing getting ordered.
     
  8. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

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    Nice, would also start thinking about removing any glass you may reuse, pulling the front subframe and bracing up the body before doing any more cutting.

    My 77 was media-blasted recently and is on a rotisserie at the moment so DM me if you need any detail pics or measurements
     
  9. ZerroHalfcup

    ZerroHalfcup New Member

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    The rear glass is already out of the car and the front windshield is toast so unless it makes it easier, I don't plan on removing the front windshield until it's getting replaced.

    How would you recommend bracing the body? I wanted to avoid that so my strategy was to focus on "smaller" areas at a time such as just the passenger side and once I'm completely done with that, moving onto the driver side. I was going to leave the subframe connected, hoping that would help in bracing it, until I was completely done with the metal work . If I am wrong in this thinking please let me know, I don't have any plans of cutting any more out of the floor at the time.
     

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