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Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by Gene'78-LSX, Jul 6, 2015.
If you're going to go with exhaust manifolds, I've heard that the 01-02 F-body ones flow a lot more.
Update.... I found a deal on a used 4l80e so I decided to go that route instead of spending money on the 4l60e. The converters are about the same price and I know the 4l80e is a stout unit. It has the same 1-2-3 ratios as a TH400 so it should work well at the track and it still has a .75 4th for street driving. I am on the fence with my stall speed choice due to my 3.55 gears everyone tells me to go with a 3200 stall min and switch to 3.73 gears min. I was thinking of gong with a 2800 stall and keeping the 3.55 for now just to see how it works.
I pulled the LQ9 and attempted to swap the F-body pan to the LS2 but the clearance for the 4" crank is proving a pain in my rear end. I spent several hours reworking the windage tray and the oil pickup tube mounting depth to get proper pickup to pan and crank to tray and tray to pan clearance and everything clears except the tray is bottoming out in the pan somewhere and I just got tired of fooling with it.
Has anyone been able to get an '05 LS2 corvette pan to work in a late second gen subframe?? Anyone??? Please let me know what engine mounts crossmember transmission etc. I think it will require some notching of the crossmember just not sure about the front steering linkage.
I hope to make the first test fit this weekend if it's not even close I might have to work on the f-body pan some more....
Great news! The '05 corvette oil pan will fit a '78 camaro with the Holley 1" setback mounts The front lip of the sump is rounded so the center of the sump is the closest point to the crossmember at 4* down the the sump almost touched the brake line that is hiding in the notch of the crossmember Holley recommends 3-3.5* down and there is plenty of room to relocate the brake line so there will be plenty of clearance for any flex of the mounts or the crossmember. The F-body pan has an extra step so it clears the crossmember with ease but it also has a deeper sump that is about flush with the bottom of the crossmember. The Vette pan has the most ground clearance out of all of the GM pans from what I read. The tie rods have about 1/4" clearance on both sides lock to lock. The car is not at my final ride height due to the BBC coil overs but I believe the drag link angle is fixed only the tie rod angle will change with ride height so I should be good. My stock clam shell mounts look a little cracked so I might go ahead and replace while I'm in there. The next hurdle will be getting the 4L80e fitted and modify a crossmember to work as Holley does not offer one that I can find. The 4L60e had plenty of room but the 4L80e case looks larger so fitment is yet to be determined. I ordered the Hughes SFI flexplate and hub adapter and a FTI 2800-3000 stall 9.5" billet converter so if everything works out I might have the trans mounted this weekend. The only snag is that I want to test fit the trans before I overhaul it. If everything works I will try to get my cousin to school me on transmission overhaul 101 this weekend. I am on the fence between the Holley/headman long tubes and the Kooks LS swap long tubes. Holley 1 3/4" primary 3" collector Kooks 1 7/8" primary 3" collector. Both 304 stainless both about the same price. Kooks already has ball flanges and o2 bungs Holley does not. Holley is supposed to fit with the setback mounts Kooks calls for the dirty dingo sliders. Has anyone tried either one of these headers?
Nice to see the pan worked out for you. I thought the f-body pan was the go to pan but you proved that wrong for the guys with a bigger stroke. It's also nice to see that it's common for a build to get carried away. As in, doing an intake swap turns into a cam,pushrods ect. My "budget build" has cost almost $10,000 so I feel you pain on that. I agree with you about the 3.55 gears. Try them out. See how it is but I think it's a waste of money to go from 3.55 to 3.73. There isn't a enough of a difference between the two. I would suggest at least a 4.10 gear if you want more especially if you end up with a 6spd down the line. I also bought a Hughes triple billet converter. It cost as much as my junkyard 6.0 but it's an important piece of the puzzle. Keep up the good work and keep us updated.
Gene'78-LSK - What did you do for a shifter?
In my 79 I used a kit from Shiftworks to reprogram the 3spd OEM shifter for a 4spd 4L85E.
Personally I just like the old school look.
No doubt I love the stealthy look of the stock shifter! I'm sure that would make several of my friends scratch their heads but my shifter is in poor cosmetic condition so I'm not sure if I want to restore and adapt it or go with something more like the B&M quicksilver. I think it was the quicksilver that was designed with a shift limiter pin that can be removed to allow for the 4th O/D gear. I'm not sure if that only works in the ratchet mode or both...? I need to research that more but I still have some time before I get to that point. I would like to frequent our local strip once I get everything working so a ratchet mode would be a welcomed feature. I need to take a vacation so I can work on the car! I mean do stuff with the family...
The 4L80e fits and I didn't even need a hammer! So It looks like the Holley engine mounts and 4L60e crossmember will also work without any modification it will just mount further back on the subframe. I will probably need to make some trans mount shims to raise the tail to get the 3-3.5 degree designed angle but that will be easy enough. The 4L80e has even more ground clearance than the 4L60e because it has a shallower pan I just hope it clears the headers. It sounds like a lot of people cut the ears for clearance I would rather not but we shall see. I think I will just pull the pan and see how clean it is inside. If there is no sign of excess metal filings on the magnet I will probably just run it without doing the overhaul for now. The sfi flexplate and adapter came in but it looks like the converter won't make it until Tuesday.
Okay edit to my previous post. The 4L60e crossmember will not work. It was close if you turn it backward however it has a 3* down angle built in so when you flip it around it is 6* off as compared to the 3*down transmission. I have already built a prototype out of rectangle tubing and angle iron. I will post some pics tomorrow let me know what you think.
I had to cut the ears off my 4l80 to clear the headers. I used the stock 350 trans mount flipped around and moved back, and cut the mounting plate off and rebuilt it.
What headers did you go with? I keep forgetting to take my TH350 crossmember to the shop to see how it would work. That might work even better than the one I have been working on.
It looks like the '05 Vette ps pump and alternator will work with stock pulleys. I have the Dirty Dingo high mount A/C brackets so all I need is to get a matching pulley for the A/C and that should take care of the accessories.
I have found some very mixed opinions on aftermarket EFI systems Vs factory system with EFI Live or HP Tuner. I am a complete noob at EFI but I like to think that I catch on quickly especially with computers and electronics. I’m more worried about reliability than ease of use.