78' Camaro LT1 Conversion Cali Smog Legal

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by supwicha, Feb 26, 2014.

  1. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

    Messages:
    2,896
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2004
    Location:
    Santa Barbara, Ca
    I could be mistaken, but I think he means the clamshells to the subframe had to
    be loose, not the subframe to the body had to be loose.

    I cant see it having to do with the LT1, since it mounts classic SBC.

    Tom
     
  2. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    Messages:
    2,575
    Likes Received:
    141
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2007
    Location:
    Pittsburgh, PA
    I was confusing....I just meant my sub frame was in when I did mine. Clamshells were bolted tight to the frame.
     
  3. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2014
    Location:
    Victorville, CA
    I knew about this upgrade from previous post here, I wanted to retain this box however. I'll manage to get them flared or I'll swedge some new fittings on the existing lines.

    Cheers!
     
  4. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2014
    Location:
    Victorville, CA
    The issue is not related to the LT1 block itself since dimensionally the block is the same and previous Mark series blocks. The mounts I used require that after drilling the rivets out of the clam-shell halves, that you must lube and install the poly mount between the two halves, clamp in a heavy vise and bring them together. Energy supplies a couple heavy-gauge zip ties to keep the halves together which did not hold, I had to add several more zip ties. When I initially mounted them to the sub-frame tightly, I absolutely could not get the 2nd bolt in to save my life. If worse come to worse, read the directions. . .They call for leaving the mounts loose on the sub frame, dropping in the engine, install the two long mount bolts, drop the engine in the rest of the way, cut the zip ties, then tighten down the hardware that mounts the shells to the frame. This process for my application took me 2-hours and I am properly "tooled up" to do what seemingly should be a simple job. If for any reason I must remove the engine, I'm getting rid of of these particular poly mounts. The OEM style are plenty strong enough given the anemic power generated by a stock LT1, your mileage may vary :)

    Link for install: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17272.pdf
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2014
  5. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2014
    Location:
    Victorville, CA
    Hi all,

    Managed to have another productive weekend. I got the PCM mounted, and about 1/3rd of the wiring routed, wrapped in the expandable wire loom, heat shrink, etc. I also got the UH fuel/relay panel mounted and circuits identified. I did run into one snag however. Does anyone have a part number for the temp sensor located on the discharge trans cooling line? I found that the sensor head is broken. I goggled, checked ebay, and GM web sites. I can easily find the sensor in diagrams, but everyone skips over it, they go from #13 to #15.. If any of you have a lead or part number, that would be great. It is item #14 in the diagram, however they do not link that item for me to get the part number.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][/IMG]
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
  6. bigdav160

    bigdav160 Veteran Member

    Messages:
    592
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2006
    Location:
    Klein Texas
    I don't remember that sensor and I was a Chevrolet transmission guy in 1995. I worked on a lot of police Caprices. The temp sensor for the PCM is in the pressure switch on the valve body.
     
  7. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2014
    Location:
    Victorville, CA
    This engine/trans combo was from a '95 9C1 Police Caprice. I'm going to try calling the dealer and search by VIN and see if they can locate. Thanks for your reply!

     
  8. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

    Messages:
    2,896
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2004
    Location:
    Santa Barbara, Ca
    I have a 1995 9C1. Never touched that part of it so I can't say if it has it.

    Tom
     
  9. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2014
    Location:
    Victorville, CA
    Here are a few photos from last weekend's progress. Basically about 1/3rd of the wiring.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]
    [​IMG][/IMG]

    Made a binder with plastic sheet inserts for all my schematics, DTC's, PCM Pinouts, I/P, etc.

    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
  10. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2014
    Location:
    Victorville, CA
    Speedo question for you all as I with to retain the old-school factory cluster setup. I noticed that several have chosen different paths to address the issues of the mechanical speedo obviously not supported by this setup. I've seen what everyone has done here for the most part, looked at solutions from jags, boxes, adapters, tailshaft mods, etc. The idea I have been mulling about is, why not just use the VSS driven 2-3 wire stepper motor that comes with the electric "analog" gauge setup by GM? It seems one could disassemble the mechanical head, mount the stepper motor, re-mount the needle, and direct wire to PCM. The stepper motors have a optical encoder and self calibrate to zero against the low zero stop peg, so no need to be concerned with the needle to shaft relationship. Additionally, one could mount the VSS driven electromechanical odometer as well. The beauty of this if successful is speedo calibrations in the PCM for tire/ratio changes would be reflected here as well. Has anyone tried that? A new OEM stepper motor can be found for less that $10 all day long. Your thoughts anyone?
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.