78' Camaro LT1 Conversion Cali Smog Legal

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by supwicha, Feb 26, 2014.

  1. bigdav160

    bigdav160 Veteran Member

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    The guys on the 67-72 Chevy truck forum have done just that. For that application they use a non tach packaged S-10 speedo head as the donor since it has the same sweep as the factory analog speedo. You can read about their conversion here
     
  2. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

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    Wow, great information. That settles it for me, I'll do the same/similar to mine. Thanks for the link!

     
  3. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

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    Well I have not updated in a while but here goes. I have about 60% of my wiring sorted out. I pulled off the inner fender wells for paint as well as the nose and core support so I can paint the support. I stripped down the exhaust manifolds (removed sheet metal), blasted everything, high temp paint for both the manifolds and the sheet metal (Black and Ceramic/Metallic), reassembled, and baked in the oven at 250/400/600 per the instructions to cure with 30 minute cool-down between temp changes. Started routing some of the vacuum lines. At this point, I need to get the under hood paint items completed and re-installed so I can resume on the wiring. I also need to mount the 9C1 trans and eng oil coolers and plumb though the support. I did discover a nice surprise. The Caprice 9C1 A/C condenser will fit in front of the radiator which will provide the correct passenger side orientation for the high side lines and will only require a single small notch in the aluminum mounting flange to clear everything. I will need to re-drill the rubber insulated stand-off's to mount it to the core. I will not be able to use the caprice rubber bottom mounts as they will lift the condenser too high. I will however be able to mount it at four points to the core itself and have about 1" of clearance between the condenser and radiator. I figure that the car had air, and after all the work thus far, I'm keeping it no matter what. Happy, happy happy. . .

    Lastly, can anyone confirm that the air injection ports on the manifolds are M22x1.50? I'm seeing post that say M18 as well. My particular car had the approved TSB which removes the air injection system. I still have the factory label and confirmed with my referee that I can omit it. Also, if anyone has a recommendation for the source they used for the plugs, that would be nice as well.

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    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
  4. arick793

    arick793 Veteran Member

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    You don't by chance still have that old straight 6 HEI sitting around, do you?
     
  5. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

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    Sorry, I do not. I sold the whole engine minus brackets. Thanks

     
  6. drptop70ss

    drptop70ss Veteran Member

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    Late to the party..I would have to check my other LT1 setups but I know my last setup I used was from a 1995 9C1 and had that trans line temperature switch. Zoom in on this pic and you can see it. I would think it is common, the computer controlled transmissions I have used dont allow converter lockup until the trans is warmed up.

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    Also as far as the steam line, you can use whatever overflow tank you want and whatever radiator you want as long as you tie the steam line into the upper radiator hose. I use cheap inline unions off ebay that have a 1/4" NPT port on them and screw in a barb fitting for the 3/8" hose.

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    Also the exhaust manifolds should be the larger metric size, from what I remember the F body used the smaller 18mm size. I have bags of both sizes, I use oil pan drain plugs which are the correct metric thread. Been awhile since I plugged off a set, I put the complete AIR system on my 47 caddy and my recent swaps are using headers.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
  7. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

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    Thanks for the heads up on all of these items. I did learn a couple things. GM does not sell the sensor separate, you must purchase the entire cooling line which includes the sensor. Yeah right, I'll use what I have. I will unfortunately need to hard wire/solder to the single terminal until I find one on ebay or the wrecking yard. I actually received my plugs today (the larger size) and they fit. They are a bit long, so I'll need to cut them down a bit. Thanks again for the info!
     
  8. supwicha

    supwicha Veteran Member

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    Time for a quick update. After my core support removal, I stripped it, applied primer and paint and have it set back on the frame. I also installed the aftermarket air intake system I'll be using. I know what your thinking, "it wont pass smog", and yes you are correct. I am installing what will be my permanent intake system so I can properly route my electrical for the MAF and intake air temp sensor. I'll have to use the ugly stock unit and extend my wiring with some pigtails temporarily for the smog test. There is no way I'm using the stock unit after that between the 2-year smog intervals. I'll keep it for the purpose of smog.

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    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
  9. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    That setup might pass smog, depending on the tech - it's possible. You have the
    delete for the air pump, so you don't have to deal with the extra hose like I did on
    my 1995 9C1 Impala SS conversion this past year.

    What does concern me, is being directed down like that, seems more likely to suck
    water if it ever rains here in California again. That close to the ground there is a
    mist that develops on roads at higher speeds. Just a thought.

    Wouldn't want to end up with a giant Cal Trans Shop Vac.:eek:

    Tom
     
  10. hot72rod

    hot72rod Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Granted I'm not to the point were I can mock things up myself, but it loos like there is enough room in from of the rad and the nose to locate the filter. That would help with a cooler charge of are going into the motor to start with.
     

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