79 Z28 Project Fast Times.........

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by Camaromurph, Jul 6, 2019.

  1. Camaromurph

    Camaromurph Veteran Member

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    Headers - awful...……………nice.

    Finished cutting and grinding on the slots on the trans crossmember to get it all lined up.

    In the end I got the engine and trans where they needed to be and the level in the subframe looked good.

    Subframe level at core support mounts
    IMG_4019.JPG

    Top of engine supercharger cover
    IMG_4020.JPG

    Rear subframe at #3 body mounts
    IMG_4021.JPG

    And the last challenge for now that I am going to put on hold until I get the parts out to the powder coater.
    IMG_4023.JPG IMG_4026.JPG

    This is the water pump housing that the LT4 wetsumps are coming with from GM. There are other housings out there like the dry sump corvette housing but the Drive Junky serpentine kit for the wetsump engine won't work with it. So first I will see if I can shorten this tube and get a 45 or 90 degree hose to connect.
     
  2. Gasoholic

    Gasoholic Member

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  3. SPG

    SPG Bumblebee Builder

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    He's getting the headers made by the people who make the swap kit
    http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/merch...RP&Product_Code=206-6799-00&Category_Code=LTX
     
  4. Camaromurph

    Camaromurph Veteran Member

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    Yes, those are the ones. Best chance to get a good fit with the rest of their kit. Fingers crossed.
     
  5. Camaromurph

    Camaromurph Veteran Member

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    As I had some time with my parts out for powdercoat, I thought I would try my had a fastener restoration. As opposed to buying all new stuff, I bought some Eastwood rust dissolver and Caswell Plating Black Oxide kit. While the rust dissolver did work, it took quite a bit of time on some parts. I ended up just sandblasting them and then to the oxide kit. It took a bit to get the hang of the oxide kit. They recommend 30 seconds to 5 minutes in the oxide bath, then rinse, the 1-2 minutes in the sealant (oil). I found that the longer in the bath the more likely the parts would end up with brown smutt on them. Seems like 2-2.5 minutes was about right.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 21, 2019
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  6. Camaromurph

    Camaromurph Veteran Member

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    Got all my parts back from powdercoat today. I used Midwest Powder Coat in Naperville, IL. Great people to work with. I ended up going with Tiger Drylac Millennium Black Matte. Turned out great. Enjoy the pics of the powder coated goodness.
    IMG_4056.JPG IMG_4057.JPG IMG_4058.JPG
     
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  7. Camaromurph

    Camaromurph Veteran Member

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    As SPG stated, I'm going with the BRP headers that go with the mounts I am using. My experience, mostly on my 68 with an LS3 is that your best bet is to get a kit of mounts/headers from the same company if available. When I first did my 68 LS swap kits were not available and I had to get individual pieces from different companies. There were certainly some challenges with that. That was 2010. When I was changing my trans from a 5 speed to a 6 speed back in 2016 (I think) full kits were out and I switched up to the full Holley suite and everything bolted in with no issues.
     
  8. Camaromurph

    Camaromurph Veteran Member

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    My plan at this point is to try to get it back together and running by July 1st 2020. This is with no body improvements nor any real interior work.

    I got to work on finishing up the control arms. Progress is slow. Each of the UCA cross shafts had one of the two bushing sleeves stuck on the cross shafts. Work with the PB Blaster for a while and finally was able to get them off. Cleaned them up and did the black oxide process on them. I think they turned out pretty good.
    IMG_4059.JPG IMG_4060.JPG

    Then I started pressing the bushings in the LCA's. Got one set in. I still need to flare the front bushing in place.

    IMG_4065.JPG
     
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  9. Camaromurph

    Camaromurph Veteran Member

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    I also spend some time on the subframe. I got the trans mount adapter brackets installed. I also took some pictures of my rolling set up. I have the front of the frame on two rolling dollies and jack stands. I have the back of the subframe on two rolling dollies with 3 2X4's stacked on them. This seems to match the height difference needed for the #2 and #3 bushing locations on the body. My plan is to lift the body off the jack stands under it now, roll this subframe under it and tighten it up. I have the centering pins for the gauge holes by mount #2 to make sure the subframe goes in straight. I will make some measurements with my tram gauge as well before I make the final tightening. Seems like having it easy to roll around on the dollies should aide in lining it up. We will see.

    IMG_4063.JPG
    IMG_4061.JPG IMG_4062.JPG
     
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  10. BrewInfusedYeti

    BrewInfusedYeti New Member

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    This thread is a massive help to me - I am in the middle of a similar swap LT1 + 8L90E. If no one else has claimed the spot, i guess I'm the next guy doing the swap. Your stock exhaust manifolds almost look different than what is on my LT1, mine seem more restrictive/tighter to the block. I purchased dirty dingo mounting plates that use the clam shells and I just ordered the same oil pan from holley. Curious to what you did to solve the PCV oil line issue, I noticed stock routing interferes with the plates I have as well. Did you get a chance to roll the frame with motor/trans under the car yet? If so, how close is the tunnel to the 8l90? Also regarding the trans crossmember it seems like there was a decent amount of work to get it to work, which is frustrating. Would you recommend the crossmember? In a separate thread i saw someone run the holley blackheart crossmember for the 4l60 with his 6l80, it looked pretty clean and runs ~100 cheaper than brp. My other option/thought is a g force DIY crossmember, it's cheap but time consuming.
     

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