'94 Firebird LT1 into '78 Camaro project back on

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by sbca96, Jun 21, 2010.

  1. ULTM8Z

    ULTM8Z Veteran Member

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    Wow. Looks like they put the EVAP cannister in the rear of the vehicle. Considering the tight quarters of a fourth gen engine compartment, it's understandable.

    Anyway, the fourth gen EVAP setup looks very similar to a third gen. Except the solenoid is mounted separate from the canister (on mine, the solenoid is on top of the cannister).

    Looks like you're going to have to modify something to get vent lines- either the tank or the sending unit. What I would do is take the sending unit you have in your tank and add a couple of vent lines to it. Drill a couple of holes and the vent lines can be inserted in and welded to the sending unit. They simply protrude into the tank by about a 1/2" or so. In this way you can copy the fourth gen setup exactly. On mine, I completely bypassed all the factory second gen EVAP lines (including that distribution thing-a-ma-jig behind the rear seat).

    That solenoid on the intake manifold simply hooks up to manifold vacuum on one port and the purge line (port #3 in the canister diagram below). It shouldn't matter which port on the solenoid you connect vacuum or purge line to. Tank tube (port #1) on the canister connects to one vent line on the fuel tank sender. Air tube (port #2) on the canister remains open to the atmosphere. Make sure you retain that inline purge valve (item #2).

    Take a look at this. I annotated the diagram you posted. Hopefully gives some clarification.

    [​IMG]

    ImageShack.us
     
  2. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Correct me if I am wrong, but if I get the 71-73 EVAP tank, then I will get some
    type of vent line from it, that I can direct to the 4th Gen EVAP system. I am
    glad I posted this first before pulling the trigger on a tank. Thanks for the help
    on this one, once its figured out, refereed and smogged, I bet many will like to
    see what was done to get there.

    Any ideas on how to cut the floor away above the rear axle on a 4th Gen to get
    access to the system? Its a steel tank, but plastic lines, I was looking at using
    a cut off wheel, but I think the sparks could be bad. Then I thought sawsall, it
    could work but I fear cutting a fuel line doing it "blind".

    The car was toasted by a land rover, so its no loss cutting the body up.

    Tom

     
  3. ULTM8Z

    ULTM8Z Veteran Member

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    That may work. The 4th gen canister does look similar to a 2nd gen.



    I'm at a loss on that one. Unexplored territory for me...
     
  4. BonzoHansen

    BonzoHansen Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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    take the tank out. It is not that hard
     
  5. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    That means dropping the entire rear suspension, and I dont have any use for
    the tank myself, I just want to have access to the fuel lines and pump setup
    so that I can copy it on the '78. At the moment the car is sitting up on jack
    stands in the front, waiting for when I get over this damn cold and can get
    out there to pull the engine. I have the carpet out, and a bare steel floor is
    staring me in the face. They used thicker gauge steel though, so my tin snips
    are not going to be up to the task.

    Tom
     
  6. drptop70ss

    drptop70ss Veteran Member

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    the 4th gen canister is the same size as it has been since the 70s, I have mine mounted up front next to the battery in my 65 olds using a 3rd gen F body mounting base.
    It is easy to cut the sending unit out of a 4th gen, I do it all the time with a sawzall. Just have the blade barely cutting through the metal so it does not cut through the tank below, but you will not cut the lines if you do it the way I have.
    With the rear carpet lifted up you will see the spot welds running front to back for the bracing that is welded under the panel. You want to cut just inside those areas, front to back, and then across at the rear of the car. Dont make a cut at the front of the area which is where the fuel lines are. Then just lift up the panel like opening a can and you will see the sending unit.
    You will need push lock style disconnect tools to get the fuel lines off and it will be tight to get to but it is not that hard. If you want to save the fuel lines as well just drop the tank down a little so you have some clearance to feed the lines down from the car. They will take some tugging as they are taped into place along the tank. As I said before the evap canister will be in the drivers side rear wheel house, there is a plastic panel that covers it, you get to it from inside the wheelhouse (have to remove the wheel to get in there).
    I always save all the fuel lines and reuse what I can during a conversion and I use the EVAP system as well.
     
  7. BonzoHansen

    BonzoHansen Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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    It's been a while, but give or take the exhaust, the rear should drop out of the way with around 6-8 bolts IIRC. Lower shock bolts, panhard rod bolts, maybe sway bar and I think you'd be clear. I'm with you, cutting that blind does not appeal to me although I know lots of folks do it.

    So you have reused EVAP hardware. A friend of mine is beating himself up over how to do this on an LS1 swap into a 3rd gen. I'm going to get the details straight and post a question up on this. I think he can transplant the whole deal and he is getting told he needs a 4th gen cluster.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2010
  8. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    This is interesting, so you have used the nylon lines in a swap? I think that
    the steel section under the car might have been dinged during the accident.
    what style connectors does the Spectra tank come with? I thought it was
    the AN style..? This thread has been worth posting up! Good info.

    Tom
     
  9. drptop70ss

    drptop70ss Veteran Member

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    No idea on the spectra tank, I have been using 94-96 caprice tanks for my swaps (all A bodys so far) and I have reused both F body and B body fuel lines. When I did my 65 I shortened the F body lines as needed and used stainless steel swagelok unions at the splices. I use the swagelok fittings at work with UHP gas systems and they can handle much higher pressures than the fuel system can produce. I now have a kit with the tool to add factory style ends to the nylon lines so I can mod them as needed and not use the unions.
    FWIW dropping the 4th gen tank is a major PITA, I wouldnt do it on a car you were cutting up unless you have the time and can get the car high in the air. Rear has to come out, exhaust has to come down, tank heat shields have to come down, and even then it is a pain to get the tank angled down and out of the car, it does not just fall out. I have done a bunch of them and it is always a pain, if I am not saving the tank I just cut the trunk area and have the sender out in 15 minutes.
     
  10. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Good info on the fuel lines, I will have to look closely when I get over this cold
    and see if they are damaged or not. Sounds like cutting the floor will work. The
    B-body tank wont fit a 2nd Gen Camaro, there just isnt enough room with the
    leaf springs - A-bodys have coils dont they? I had read of someone using the
    B-body tank in a 1st Gen, but the pictures show its a tight fit. I think it also
    required the exhaust to exit before the rear of the car?

    Tom
     

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