ALL-METAL vs. Duraglass vs. welding???

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by malo68, Jan 19, 2005.

  1. malo68

    malo68 Veteran Member

    478
    0
    Jan 3, 2005
    Providence, RI USA
    Hi guys. I'm I've got my car 3/4 stripped to bare metal and am getting ready for bodywork. I need to repair the roof-sail body seam. I've got some people telling me to go with a the aluminum filler "ALL-METAL" and some that say go with "duraglass" fiberglass filler for the seam. Has anyone out there used these products on theirs? Any recommendations?

    Also, I've been reading about ALL-METAL and they say it can be used over spot welds. Has anyone used this on their quarter panels over the spot welds? I'm finding that MIG welding between the welds is a frustrating and tedious job (I'm an amateur/spot welds are about 1" apart). I want to do a good job and do it right but there are so many little pinholes and small voids after grinding the welds that seem impossible to fill. On the last one I did there was dirt in tiny crevace that turned into a bubble later on. I don't want this to happen again. I'm just looking to see if there's an equally durable (and easier) alternative to welding the complete quarter seam or is there one. I appreciate any and all opinions/advice on this. THANKS in advance!!! Malo
     
  2. Rick WI

    Rick WI Veteran Member

    10,400
    1
    Jul 9, 2001
    Madison, WI
    If the seam is solid and tight All Metal would be my preference. It sands hard as a rock so don't glob it on. When I use All Metal I always rough shape with 80 grit on a DA. Once I have it blocked close I skim with lightweight filler for final blend. All Metal has no real strength against cracking along a loose joint, so it will crack if flexed.

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    70 SS 454 CI Dynoed 684 HP, 702 TQ All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block , plus 200 - 500 HP NX nitrous system.

    [This message has been edited by Rick WI (edited January 20, 2005).]
     
  3. 468RAT

    468RAT Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

    I have used All Metal for a few years and it always was the best. I like the product but go easy with it cause it is hard to sand off if you use too much. This gets my vote over anything else.
     
  4. martZ

    martZ Veteran Member

    241
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    Jan 8, 2003
    Waunakee, WI USA
    I have no personal experience w/All Metal, and also value Rick's opinion. The past five restorations at our shop we've used Duraglass w/ no problems. In fact my 78' has been Duraglassed for 7 years know with no signs of cracking or shrinking. Like Rick said, after blocking use a glaze for final fill.
     
  5. Rick WI

    Rick WI Veteran Member

    10,400
    1
    Jul 9, 2001
    Madison, WI
    That's cause it don't make any power! Just shitin ya. I do have your motor in EA and have crunched a bunch of cams for you. Problem is it's hard to keep the low end and gain on the top. I'm gettin closer though and I'll call ya soon. Got the cam and the motor is going back together so maybe next week we'll get together at the dyno.


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    70 SS 454 CI Dynoed 684 HP, 702 TQ All Aluminium Fuel Injected Small Block , plus 200 - 500 HP NX nitrous system.
     
  6. martZ

    martZ Veteran Member

    241
    0
    Jan 8, 2003
    Waunakee, WI USA
    I know it doesn't make much power, even with nitrous. I don't have the cash flow to play with you big boys. [​IMG]
     

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