Anyone run cooler T-stats in their LS?

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by badazz81z28, Jun 14, 2019.

  1. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    I will have mine apart...is it even worth the money and time to swap the 195 for a 180 or even 160?
     
  2. Goat

    Goat Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Why?
     
  3. ZEN357

    ZEN357 Veteran Member

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  4. Goat

    Goat Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Cooler is not necessarily 'better'...

    Don't have time to get into it right now, will check in later.
     
    Knuckle Dragger likes this.
  5. CorkyE

    CorkyE Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Good question. :)
     
  6. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    ^^ Correct, my old notes stated 20% increase cylinder wear going from the baseline of 170 to 160, sweet spot was 170-180.
     
  7. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    Seems like something a lot of folks do for HP gains. I will have it off, so seeing if I should take advantage of the opportunity.
     
  8. CorkyE

    CorkyE Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Cooler inlet air will gain horsepower more than lower coolant temperature. I'm fighting high inlet temps now that I've installed an Eddy Pro Flo 4 system, mainly because the old carb system didn't have an IAT sensor and I was just blindly unaware. I went with a 180* t-stat because the self learn feature doesn't kick in until coolant temp reaches 160*. I started watching the temps on my 05 Silverado with the 5.3 engine and it steadily stays around 200*. So I'm pretty confidant that GM knew what they were doing when they spec'd that thermostat. Modern engines (LS) with tighter clearances and thinner oils are designed to run at a higher temperature and changing that parameter can effect other components within the system. IMHO
     
  9. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Correct, I guess it depends what your looking for, ultimate dyno run, 1/4 mile or best qualifying lap to make the cut. I've done the "icing" of the heads/intake with 100* water temps and heat the oil to 280* at the minimum level. My good friend who worked for TRD in CUP would literally circulate ICE cold water through the engine at the same time circulate the oil through a large burner from the dry sump to 320+* just before qualifying, it was crazy.

    If not, a 170-180 would be a good choice. Keep an eye on the oil temp if you go down in thermostat.
     
  10. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    x2 with CorkyE, there is a reason why you need the heat, got to get the oil up/over 212*.
     

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