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Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by badazz81z28, Jun 14, 2019.
I will have mine apart...is it even worth the money and time to swap the 195 for a 180 or even 160?
I run a 180. I read you shouldn't go any lower than a 180 in an aluminum engine. I used to run 160's in my Iron block/Iron head Chevys.
Cooler is not necessarily 'better'...
Don't have time to get into it right now, will check in later.
^^ Correct, my old notes stated 20% increase cylinder wear going from the baseline of 170 to 160, sweet spot was 170-180.
Seems like something a lot of folks do for HP gains. I will have it off, so seeing if I should take advantage of the opportunity.
Cooler inlet air will gain horsepower more than lower coolant temperature. I'm fighting high inlet temps now that I've installed an Eddy Pro Flo 4 system, mainly because the old carb system didn't have an IAT sensor and I was just blindly unaware. I went with a 180* t-stat because the self learn feature doesn't kick in until coolant temp reaches 160*. I started watching the temps on my 05 Silverado with the 5.3 engine and it steadily stays around 200*. So I'm pretty confidant that GM knew what they were doing when they spec'd that thermostat. Modern engines (LS) with tighter clearances and thinner oils are designed to run at a higher temperature and changing that parameter can effect other components within the system. IMHO
Correct, I guess it depends what your looking for, ultimate dyno run, 1/4 mile or best qualifying lap to make the cut. I've done the "icing" of the heads/intake with 100* water temps and heat the oil to 280* at the minimum level. My good friend who worked for TRD in CUP would literally circulate ICE cold water through the engine at the same time circulate the oil through a large burner from the dry sump to 320+* just before qualifying, it was crazy.
If not, a 170-180 would be a good choice. Keep an eye on the oil temp if you go down in thermostat.
x2 with CorkyE, there is a reason why you need the heat, got to get the oil up/over 212*.