Backfiring and no power

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by WiggyB31, Sep 26, 2019.

  1. WiggyB31

    WiggyB31 Member

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    A little heads up I changed out the the dual carb setup with a single carb setup. Prior to the swap no backfiring but was idling around 3400. So now the car idles fine (around 1100 because of the cam speed pro CS-1095R). The timing is 180 degrees off which is fine because it idles like a champ. The problem is when I hit the gas it starts to backfire. When driving it doesn't go over 7 mph so it has no power what so ever.

    Initally I did a garage exhaust job so I was thinking it could have been leaking there or something. Today I took it to an exhaust shop and had all the joints welded together so now that thought is out the window. What I plan on doing tomorrow is starting the car up and let it get warm then spray some cab cleaner around the intake to make sure there are no leaks there. I don't think so but it doesn't hurt to check. But other than that I'm at a loss so I was hoping to share it here to see if anyone has any other ideas for me to look into.

    Thanks in advance.......
     
  2. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    You simply can't have a good idle with the timing 180* off.

    You had the intake off the engine so the distributor was removed.
    Check your base timing and check your firing order.
    (When you reconnected the plug wires you probably switched a couple of them around.)

    I broke in an engine with 6 & 8 wires switched. :confused:
    It idled and ran pretty well but backfired when you put any load on the engine.
     
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  3. WiggyB31

    WiggyB31 Member

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    Will double back and check the wires tomorrow. I know the 180 things sounds crazy but when I had it on TDC it would crank over all day and no spark. Went 180 out and fired right up. May go with setting that again but I found the paper work from the shop that built the engine and their notes even state 180 out.
     
  4. tom3

    tom3 Veteran Member

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    Time to find a mechanic to sort this machine out.
     
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  5. bourbon_scotch

    bourbon_scotch Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    idling around 3400??? How does that work?

    When you're rotor is pointing at the #1 post in the distributor is your timing mark on the damper lined up with the timing bracket or is it on the bottom where you can't even read it?
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2019
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  6. WiggyB31

    WiggyB31 Member

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    Let me clarify that for you..... When I brought the car it had a dual carb setup with 2 elderbrok 600 cfm on it. Way too much fuel for a setup without a high rise intake to allow air and fuel to mix better. They had a 5 gallon fuel feeding the car off to the side when they were breaking in the engine and you could just see the fuel going down the entire time it was crazy.
    The guys at the speed shop I took it to suggested I take it off because I would never get it to idle much lower and right blend unless I put the right intake on to go with it. Hence me taking that off and putting on the Torker 2 intake with one of those carbs.I stand correct on the idle part though but here's the description on the cam: Good to fair idle. Reliable performance with significant power increase versus stock. Good strip performance. Recommended for street rod or muscle car. Cruise 2,400-4,800 rpm. So now I'm trying to get the car to run right and not backfire. Also I know its something with spark because I can hear a spark knock also.
     
  7. WiggyB31

    WiggyB31 Member

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    Yea tried that and now out $1800 bucks I'll take my chances right now. They just want me to go fuel injected and spend more money.
     
  8. flht99b

    flht99b Veteran Member

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    Don't know where you are in the country but you have to find a better shop if you can't fix it yourself. Looked at the cam specs, it's a mild cam that should easily idle at 700 rpm. You could do a whole lot better than a Torker intake, a modern dual plane intake or Holley 300-36 Street Dominator/Contender would be a much better choice. The distributor 180 out is possible IF the number 1 spark plug wire is next to the firewall and the number 3 spark plug wire is directly behind the carb. As long as the firing order is 18436572 clockwise looking down at the distributor cap and the rotor rotates clockwise looking down at it, it will work but yes the distributor is technically installed 180 out, caused by the distributor was installed when the number 1 cylinder was in overlap instead of compression stroke. Pull the number 1 spark plug, put your finger on the spark plug hole in the head and bump the starter until you feel compressed air on your finger. If the timing marks are lined up at 0, see if the rotor tip is pointing to the firewall or the back of the carb. Rotor should be pointing to the back of the carb. Point is the distributor can be installed anyway AS long as the spark plug wires are installed to match.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2019
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  9. WiggyB31

    WiggyB31 Member

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    You're dead on with your description of the plug locations at the #1 is at the firewall. To be fair about the shop I took it to they were working with the dual setup but there were a bunch of other things they missed hence my reluctance to take it back after spending that much money. I'll take the idle suggestion to heart and tune it down and the torker didn't cost me a dime my dad had it in his garage so why not. LoL
    Thanks for your feed back though let's me know im on the right track.
     
  10. WiggyB31

    WiggyB31 Member

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    Ok.......... so latest update and I'm pissed. Like I stated in an earlier post to this thread I paid a lil over $1800 bucks to a performance shop to break in the engine and everything when I first got it. I brought the car from a guy that rebuilt engine but due to health issues never had a chance to start it. Anyway I checked the timing and everything today and everything was on point. Had a friend over and we pulled the valve covers to check the rockers. Why were all of them loose.
    So I torked them down to about 8 ft lbs and then started up the engine. From there we adjusted them accordingly and the engine was running nice and strong. Hence the no power and backfiring. Now the issue is there is a possible a bent valve since its now popping coming from the carburetor. Trust me I have 3 carbs and it did the same thing with all of them.
    Tomorrow I will run a compression check on all the cylinders to pin point the issue and move forward accordingly. No more shops for me. Just chalking this up as a lesson learned because that's what I get for being lazy.

    Headed to the fridge for my 4th beer so will updated everyone once i get it back together.
     
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