Backfiring and no power

so that was an advance or retard timing gear set? was it even set dot to dot on any of the dots?

 

sounds good!

 

1. This is why I degree cams in! Obviously whoever built this engine didn't degree to the cam in. I also install a 360 degree timing tape on the harmonic balancer so I can set the valves when I'm done.

2. Understand that the #1 piston comes up twice in a firing cycle. #1 and #6 are opposite (180 degrees) from each other in the firing order! 1843 6572. So when the harmonic balancer is at zero, 1 & 6 are at top dead center.

3. I am TOTATLLY against adjusting hydraulic lifters without having the engine running! Obviously, you have to initially set them without it running but you MUST set them with the engine running! Otherwise they can be too tight or too loose. I set mine to 1/2 turn preload for a "race" engine and 3/4 turn preload for a street engine.

 

My advice, and I've learned this a long ago.....If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Adjusting hydraulic lifters isn't like splitting the atom. Unless you have a race motor, if it's running good, leave it alone.

 

Actually, PROPERLY adjusting ANY lifters is important (like splitting atoms). IF they are adjusted too tight, the cam and/or lifters can experience premature wear = fail. IF they are adjusted too loose, then you do not get the full benefit of the cam.

Assembling an engine is like splitting atoms: it's called attention to detail or "blueprinting". Bearing clearances, piston ring end clearance, crankshaft end play, proper torqueing the fasteners, seals & gaskets done properly, coil spring bind checked, valve to piston clearance, CC'ing the heads, degreeing the cam, setting the oil pump pickup height, setting the lifters, etc. which a good engine assembler would do.

AND after the break-in period of an engine, verifying the lifter adjustment is a GOOD idea.

 

If it was a solid lifter motor, then yes. There's a lot of leeway with hydraulics. Just the fact that the car is running well tells you what you need to know. Everyone has their own system. There's more than one way to do it. The video was pretty right on when you think of it. And it works. Actually, it's no different from bring the cam to tdc and adjusting to zero lash, then apply the preload, and again, everyone has their own preference for preload. We're not blueprinting, just adjusting lifters.

 

I adjust without the motor running. Fire it up and do the cam break in thing. The last few times I had to go back afterwards and re-adjust using the running version. It had a slight amount of clatter, ever so little and it bugged me. I despise the running method as it makes a mess and I havent found a set of valve covers designed for tappet adjustment, that fit Trick Flow aluminum heads. With roller rockers it takes about twice as long than stamped rockers with a basic lock nut. Rollers have a set screw (allen head) inside the stud. So its messy but worth it.