Battery Drain From CTSY/CLK Circuit

Discussion in 'Electrical Systems' started by Bob George, Oct 21, 2010.

  1. Bob George

    Bob George Veteran Member

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    My car has been sitting for too long now because it has a drain on the battery that would kill it over appr 3 days. I had a 2002 Z-28 that I really enjoyed driving :) and I just couldn't seem to find the time to work on my '80 so it sat for a few years:screwup: . Well my wife had to have a 2010 SS (traded in the 2002) and I don't really like driving it so I am making the time to fix the '80.

    I bought a new battery and a multimeter and started troubleshooting it using the "electrical drain" thread from the site. I have tracked it down to the CTSY/CLK fuse because the drain goes away when I pull that fuse. I had the meter set on 10 amps and it was reading -.35. So now according to the thread I need to figure out what componants are in the circuit and test them to find the draw. Well, I thought I knew how to read schematics but I can't even find the fuse block on the schematic.

    I am hoping that someone can help by telling me what the componants are and how to test/isolate them from the circuit. All help will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    -Bob George
     
  2. Gary S

    Gary S Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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  3. Aceshigh

    Aceshigh Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'll save you the headache. I know exactly what it's like to not understand schematics.
    Unfortunately some people don't. Not to mention they don't show physical locations.

    You have an orange wire like Gary said that is the hot feed to the light from the fuse block.
    Then you have a white wire that grounds by 1 of 3 locations to complete the circuit.
    Drivers door switch (in the jamb)
    Passenger door switch (in the jamb)
    Headlight switch (when you turn the knob and lock it)

    The door switches are inside the kickpanels.
    The problem with removing them, is you'll break the weather seal on the ducts from the cowl by the hood.

    Here's a simple visual courtesy light circuit I drew up awhile ago.
    [​IMG]

    If your light functions normally, you probably have the switch grounding out somehow
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2010
  4. Bob George

    Bob George Veteran Member

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    Battery Drain

    So, I looked at the fuse box last night and I saw several orange wires that plugged into the fuse box. I pulled them and no joy... I see an orange wire going to a 1"x1"x1' black cube that plugs into what looks like an add-on fuse block that is attached to the regular fuse box at the bottom, rt corner. I couldn't get it to unplug though. There is also a connector to the right of this cube that has a green wire and a orange wire, but I couldn't get it to come apart either.

    I guess I will connect the battery and see if the dome light has power and if that looks good then I will try disconnecting the cig lighter, the headlight switch, then the clock and see if any of them are causing the drain.

    After that I guess I will have to go after the door switches. I remember I tried to take off those kick panels when I had a '76 Camaro. I don't think I got them off. Any tricks that i need to know before I try again? Also, once I get access to the door switches, how will I know if one is bad? Is there a connector that I can pull?

    Thanks for the help,
    -Bob
     
  5. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    If your door switches were causing a draw... Your dome light would be glowing. (possibly very dimly)

    Since the switches are grounds... Just remove the dome light bulb to test the whole circuit.
    (If current draw drops to zero with bulb out... It's in the dome light circuit somewhere.)
    This prevents you from having to mess with the door switches if they aren't the problem.

    They unscrew from the door jamb.... The wiring can be a trick if you unplug it and let it get back into the frame.
     
  6. Bob George

    Bob George Veteran Member

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    Dome Light Checkout

    So I took a look at the dome light yesterday afternoon.

    I connected the the battery with the idea that I would start by seeing if I was getting power to the dome light. I wish I would have check to verify the draw first, but I'll come back to that later...

    I noticed that there was some discoloration on one of the connectors at the dome light so I pulled the dome light and took a closer look. One of the terminal ends was charred brown so there must have been a short there at some point. I checked for the drain with the multimeter set at 10 amps and I got nothing. I checked with both doors open and both doors shut. As I type this I just realized that maybe I should have had the multimeter set to volts to check for power???

    Anyway, I thought that was wierd so I disconnected a cable from the battery and tested for the draw again and I got nothing. Then I decided to check to see if I could get a reading by turning on the dome light with the headlight switch. I connected the battery back up and tried (again with the meter set to 10 amps) and I got nothing. Then I thought maybe I need the key on so I got the key and tried that, still nothing.

    So I was thinking I got somewhere and I was pretty happy that I made some progress as it was time to quit for the night. I went to take the key out and it won't turn to off. It's stuck in the run position. I can turn it to start and back to run, but it won't go to off. So I disconnected the battery because I had to call it a night.

    So, what do I do next to troubleshoot the drain/dome light situation?

    Second, what would cause the ignition switch to get stuck?

    Thanks again for all the help,
    -Bob George
     
  7. borjawil

    borjawil Veteran Member

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    hey i have the same problem and this really helped! however i havent tracked down the cause. there is no dome light. just two metal ends on the wiring. not sure if wiring is original but its white wiring. Where else and how do i check? door jambs, cig lighter, clock, glove box...anything im missing? no bulb in dome or glove box so does that rule them out?
     

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