Best cam for a killer street 383

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by shawntmartin, Jun 13, 2007.

  1. shawntmartin

    shawntmartin Veteran Member

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    When my ZZ4 needs a ring job, I'm pulling it and making it a 383. Ill probably look into a new cam and stall. I have a 228/235 cam now that works with a 2000 stall. I'm just curious what you guys think would be a killer street terror cam for a 383. I've heard that larger cubes will tame a cam more than if it was used in a lower cube engine. So should I go 240+ on the intake and duration? 2500-6200 range?

    Gimme all of your opinions for the best street cam. I will match the converter and the Compression (pistons in the kit) after the fact


    383
    Edlebrock RPM manifold
    195cc Trick Flow heads
    ? stall
    ? CR (10:1 to 11:1..nothing more)
    3:73 gears
    1 3/4 headers
    650 cfm carb
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2007
  2. cmonson

    cmonson Veteran Member Gold Member

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    talk to reed cams.

    www.reedcams.com

    I am completely happy with my custom grind.

    BS282DP
    HP Brute
    Brutal Ground pounding torque. Strong mid to upper range power with modified O.E.M. or aftermarket heads in the180- 200cc range, moderately aggressive idle. Power range 2600 - 6200. Needs 10:1+ comp, 2000 to 2400 conv, 1 5/8” + headers w/2.5”+ exhaust, high rise dual plane intake w/spacer & 750+ carb, 3.73+ gear.

    BS282DP 228 / 232 .480 / .486 110 106 2600 – 6200
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2007
  3. shawntmartin

    shawntmartin Veteran Member

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    Curious on the converter compared to the RPM range of the cam in the description. Also, those specs say that cam is almost exactly the same dur. (slightly smaller on the exhaust) than the one I have now. But mine has a bunch more lift (.530) How does that cam, which is slightly smaller, have an operating range thats higher than mine?

    Brute Cam: 228/232 dur. .480/.486 lift 2600-6200
    My cam: 228/235 dur. .520/.530 lift 2000-6100

    Thats confusing?
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2007
  4. Dirt Reynolds

    Dirt Reynolds Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Gimme? :screwup:

    As to a 383 cam, while you can run a bit more duration over a similar 350, it is not the same as camming a 400 which can really handle a lot of camshaft relative to the smaller engines, because it also has a huge bore (4.125"-4.185" depending on over-bore) and that also makes a big difference in cam specs. The point here is to not get carried away with sticking too big a camshaft into a 383. That cam you already have looks great for what you are proposing in your spec sheet, to be honest. With an RPM intake and 750 vacuum secondary Holley like a 3310 the above combo should make for a stout street engine. A 240° @ 0.050" cam is fairly big in a 383 and will require at least a 3500 stall. And at that point if you stay roller you should be using a solid street roller. A buddy of mine has the Crane #118521 244°/252° 112° LSA street roller in his 11.5:1 383 with AFR 210 heads with the Comp. package, Super Vic, 830 annular 3800 stall and 4.56 gears in a '72 Camaro RS. He says the stall is too low for this cam but he prefers it to running more converter, but his car runs 11-teens full-weight with a Goodmark steel cowl hood, shifting at 7000 RPM.

    In any case, as mentioned, I would use the cam you already have and see how you like it. It looks to me like it would be well suited to your engine combo and make great power. Going bigger than that to the 240° - range will mean you'll need to make other changes to your combo making it a little less street friendly and skewing the power curve to higher RPM.
     
  5. fabio

    fabio Veteran Member

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    decide on your compression first. If those heads are 64cc chambers then you will be over 11:1 with a 2 valve relief flat top pistons or close to 9:5 with an inverted dome. If you go with the inverted domes then your current cam/converter will work great.
    The reason why that brute cam has less lift than your hr is because it's a hydraulic ft cam. Reed also has a stroker line, but I'm not sure if they do it in a hr.
     
  6. Mwilson

    Mwilson Veteran Member

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    big compression bigger cam!!!!
     
  7. Goat

    Goat Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Quote, "you should be using a solid street roller" Dirt Reynolds
    :confused:
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2007
  8. shawntmartin

    shawntmartin Veteran Member

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    - My block is all set for a hydraulic roller and my lifters are like new. Its just easier to stay HR.

    - I used "gimme" instead of "give me" because its faster to type and you still understood it.;)

    - MWilson, "gimme" your recommendation.

    - Reed cams suggested a 235/243 dur. .522 lift 108LSA with a 2700-3000 stall. I asked for meanest sounding cam I can run that would have great power from 2500-6000. Should re-think the RPM range?
     
  9. Rick WI

    Rick WI Veteran Member

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    Unless you plan some some significant upgrades to your roller valvetrain as well as intake no, you don't want to alter the RPM range. That intake will begin to fall on it's face at 6000 in a 383 and your valvetrain will be unstable above that point as well.

    If Reed can grind in more lift with that cam that's always a good thing. The heads will like that. Otherwise that's about the duration range I'd stay in given your carb, intake, valvetrain.
     
  10. shawntmartin

    shawntmartin Veteran Member

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    My current cam is 228/235 .530 lift and goes from 2000-6000. If going from a 350 to a 383... would you up the cam a little to the one reed recommends? 2700-3000 stall. Or is it slightly too big? i just want to do this right the first time. They have great prices so I will be buying form them...but I just don't know which cam spec. Yet. My heads only flow 1 more cfm from .500 to .600 and max at .600 so if any cam is anywhere past .500 lift I should be good to go right?
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2007

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