Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by thesalboy, Jun 3, 2017.
Great work, looks so nice, and the pride you will have, saying " I did that!!"
Thanks Dave. You're right, though watching Barrett-Jackson makes me nauseous about the differential between what this will cost me versus what it will be "worth"! No intention of selling, of course, but it's just a hard analysis to avoid.
Anyway - shifter hump complete. The boot is purely internal, to keep the elements out. Console may need persuasion to fit, but there was no option given clearance issues. Made sure to eliminate any crannies on the underside where moisture could collect. Too small of an area to justify epoxy primer and Raptor liner, so it will get some POR15 and 3M 03584 Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating (after seam sealing of course).
Engine is back in - hopefully for good! Shifter opening is just big enough. Driveshaft installed.
Really glad I got the Dorman intake. Stock LS1 is puny by comparison. Did some minor porting to remove sharp edges and un-shroud the injectors. Warr TB fits perfectly, and can be had for not-insane money on ebay.
Also happy with Holley Mid-Mount accessories, except that the power steering reservoir will not work. I found a Unisteer reservoir (8021070) with an AN fitting instead of a barb that hopefully will work - but it's still super tight. Really don't want to plumb a remote reservoir, which will likely also require buying a new pump (unless I can find an adapter and thread the inlet of the Holley pump).
I've been working on wiring, including the PSI harness. Not happy to learn that my "complete engine harness" didn't include coil "sub-harnesses" - another $100. Will eventually order Vintage Air kit before I make the hole for the harness so I can make sure they don't interfere with one another. Need to build a starter box to simulate ignition. This is all just temporary to make sure everything in the drivetrain works, and to be able to move the car out of the garage for the front end bodywork.
Pedals and Clutch hydraulics installed. I went with Silver Sport Transmissions "PerfectFit" Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Kit. The master cylinder adapter worked fine once I welded up and re-drilled my re-pop pedal. SST offered nothing in the way of support, so I had to figure it out for myself through trial and error (I actually had to drill a second hole in the pedal a little higher than what is pictured). Clutch line was stupidly too long. For $25, Mitch at Deering Industries cut the line as I'd marked it (noting orientation and fitting location, from above) and crimped on a new fitting. Bleeder is integrated into feed line, so bleeding will no doubt SUCK!
Fuel lines are done (except for final feed line, which needs to wait for harness hole so I can fix hard line in place). Re-bending the Inline Tube stainless lines worked well after I learned that the OTC 4404 is a horrible tool. That's why there's all that hose from the FPR/filter to the feed line, rather than it being mostly if not all hard line, which that bender ruined. Trusty old OTC 3-in-1 is a much better tool. Will be using some heat shielding on that hose given how close it is to exhaust.
In part on a related note, I decided to have all exhaust tubing ceramic coated. Stainless retains heat more than mild steel. To eliminate as much slip-fitting as possible, I got some stainless wire and welded the headers to the first set of adapter tubes and the second set of adapter tubes to the x-pipe. (75/25 worked fine, though it did spatter a bit.) Had to install the entire exhaust again, then dismantle it to bring it to the coater. Going with Tech Line ColorGard Titanium. Not shiny pretty, but extremely durable. Headers and x-pipe will get flowed inside, too. Ridiculously expensive: $1100 (even more had I flowed tailpipes too). Brought my brake calipers and abutment brackets to the same place (Specialized Coatings) for powder coating in Cobalt Blue ($300).
Also want to say, yes, I am doing a split-bumper / standard nose car, not an RS. Plans changed. Also re-thinking paint scheme - solid color is possible, rather than 2-tone homage to my '75. These renderings inspired me early on (apologies to BBFLs).
Super tight, but these fittings clear. Given the tight clearance and how the hoses will need to be curved in a fairly tight radius, I'm feeling nervous about using these Fragola aluminum fittings. Also don't like the way the Fragola fittings twist on over the outer hose coating. Getting some Russell steel fittings and braided stainless line - it will be harder to assemble but the fitting clamps on the PTFE, not only the outer braid. Hopefully the fittings are the same dimensions. Ultimately, I may have no choice but to run a remote reservoir.
It is looking really nice! Nice attention to detail too. On those hose fittings, are they feeling loose or?
Thanks! Not loose, no. My main issue with the Fragola fittings is that they slip on over the exterior of the hose. I've been on track when a brake hose made that way failed - hose slipped right out of the fitting. But I'm also concerned that the combination of high pressure, tight radius bend on the hose, and engine movement (which granted should be minimal with poly mounts) is a bad recipe with the light-weight angled aluminum fittings. Taking all of that together, I'm going with Russell steel fittings, and I always use the hose that is specified for the fitting.
Summit has 10% off on all Areoquip products right now, but I like Russell, too.
You linked your inbox, not the summit link by mistake
Thank you. Deleted, except in your post. lol