Car is painted, time to cut and buff

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by RSiscoe, Jun 21, 2009.

  1. RSiscoe

    RSiscoe Member

    Apr 28, 2009
    Elizabethtown, KY
    I painted my car Friday evening. No runs, but I did get a few bugs, a hair (yes a hair), and some orange peel that needs to be wet sanded and buffed out. I started late in the day and by the time I was doing the clear it was dark outside. The light in my garage was beginning to attract the bugs so I stopped at 3 wet coats of clear. Hopefully that will suffice for wet sanding and buffing. I have a fee questions about the wet sand and buffing process.

    From what I have read on previous threads, I should start with 1000 grit sandpaper, followed by 1500 and then 2000. I should use warm water with dish soap and allow the sandpaper to soak for about 15 minutes before use. I should dry the car periodically to see how flat the orange peel is getting. Once it is about flat (not all the way flat), I should switch to the 1500 then 2000 paper.

    To buff it, I should begin with a wool pad and use 3M Perfect It compound, followed by 3M Perfect It swirl remover. Lastly I should use Meguiar's Show Car Glaze #7 with a foam pad.

    Here's a few questions:

    1.) Since I only have three coats of clear, does anyone have any suggestions, or tips for not burning through to the base?

    2.) I don't have a buffer/polisher. Is there anything I should look for when purchasing one? Also anything to look for with respect to the wool and foam pads?

    Any other suggestions or advise would be appreciated.

    I'll post some before and after pics once I finish.
  2. Rumrunner358

    Rumrunner358 Veteran Member

    Feb 12, 2004
    Orlando, FL
    i used a spray bottle with water, for the paper i backed it up with a sanding sponge. its kind of like a really soft sanding block, works pretty good.

    if you let the water dry off between sanding levels, you can see where you may need to come back and sand some more, the orange peel will still have some glossy specks in it.
  3. Rick WI

    Rick WI Veteran Member

    Jul 9, 2001
    Madison, WI
    You don't need to go 1000 unless you have some really rough defects to remove. I also use a hose flipped over my shoulder to run a constant stream of water on the surface. This takes the residue off right away rather than grinding it in, so to speak. Cuts much faster and gives a smoother finish.

    I do soak the paper.

    If this is a once in a lifetime deal get a harbor frieght buffer. If it's going to be ongoing, get a Milwaukee or Makita.

    Get a compound buff, wool, and a polishing pad. I like wool for both.

    Surface is ready to buff when there are no shiny spots. You'll see this when you start out.

    I'd start on an easy piece first, like the trunk lid. Easy to refinish if it gets fooked up.
  4. RSiscoe

    RSiscoe Member

    Apr 28, 2009
    Elizabethtown, KY
    Thanks for the info.

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