Clutch Master Cylinder Bracket for T56 Swap...Anybody Interested???

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by Fitch77, Jan 30, 2006.

  1. Fitch77

    Fitch77 Member

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    I just wanted to run this by those of you who may be interested in doing a T56 swap and utilizing the hydraulic clutch setup. I did this swap in my '77 Z28 and used the factory hydraulic clutch setup by using a bracket that mounts behind the power brake booster against the firewall. The bracket allows you to mount the factory clutch master cylinder at the right angle. I made some posts in the past on the driveline/transmission forum and received several e-mails from people wanting to know where I got the bracket from. Well, the guy I got it from doesn't make them anymore. However, I'm getting some made after using my bracket as a template. So, if anyone is interested, they will be for sale for $100 each. I swapped in an LT1 T56 but I'm pretty sure the hydraulic clutch setup is the same for the LS1 T56 as well (if this is wrong, someone please let me know!). Also, if anyone has questions about the swap or the bracket, feel free to ask. Thanks!
     
  2. Todd80Z28

    Todd80Z28 Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Despite the fact that I installed my T56 nearly 11 years ago, I might be interested in one of these. I never did use a bracket- I made some screwball angle spacers, and used big washers.:D 11 years, nearly 50k miles, still going.
     
  3. Fitch77

    Fitch77 Member

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    Todd,

    That's cool. Just let me know. I checked out your website and read a lot of your posts before I did my T56 swap! That stuff helped out quite a bit for me, so now I'm hoping I can help a few people out.
     
  4. Teetoe_Jones

    Teetoe_Jones Member

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    If the guy you purchased the bracket from was John Wilson, he no longer makes them because I purchased the exclusive rights to re-produce them.
    We are releasing them later next month, as we found 3 issues we needed to correct on the original design. The 23 degree angle that was orginally used is not optimal for pushrod travel after we looked over the factory GM blueprints, plus the spacing on the master through the firewall put it into part of the sheetmetal, causing rubbing issues. We've corrected all this and will release them along with our new 5 pc tubular corssmember kit and modified hydraulics/pedal stop kits.
    Firewall brackets will be $75 each.

    Tyler
     
  5. Fitch77

    Fitch77 Member

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    Tyler

    I did in fact buy my bracket from John Wilson. After talking to another member who contacted John Wilson, I knew he didn't make the brackets anymore. However, I didn't know he sold the rights to reproduce them. Does that mean he had the brackets patented? Just curious. Either way, I won't be getting any copies of my bracket made. It sounds like you guys can get them made for cheaper than I can anyways. In fact, with the upgrades you guys are making to the bracket, I'm going to buy one for my Camaro. I experienced the problem where the push rod rub's the sheet metal that the brake switch is threaded into. To get past this, we just trimmed the metal. I have also noticed that my clutch pedal is harder to push than late model Camaros equipped with a T56. Is this due to the fact the angle isn't optimal like you mentioned above. If so, that would explain a lot. I just thought my system wasn't "broke in" if you know what I mean. Anyways, Thanks for replying to my post and letting me know that you guys are making this bracket. I definitely don't want any legal trouble or anything like that :). I had a few people contact me about the bracket who weren't having any luck getting one, so I thought I would get a few copies of mine made just to help. No major advertisment or anything like that. I'll be sure to refer these guys and anymore inquiries about the bracket to you guys! Thanks.

    Stephen
     
  6. Todd80Z28

    Todd80Z28 Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    ???
    Where did you mount the pushrod to the clutch? Factory 2nd gen pushrod hole is about 2.5" down from the pivot point, whereas 4th gen pivot point is a hair under 2".
    [​IMG]
    Note the location of the factory hole on the bottom (and grossly worn- came from the donor car that way), vs. the new hole I drilled above it.

    I ran it both ways, and the correct hole location gives a MUCH lighter pedal.

    Todd
     
  7. Fitch77

    Fitch77 Member

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    Todd,

    Thanks for the info! I actually used the factory second gen hole. I guess that was a bad idea. Since I have my car apart, I may go ahead and drill the hole 1/2 inch above and see how the pedal feels. It definitely couldn't hurt. My buddy just bought an '01 SS with a six speed and I couldn't believe how much easier his pedal was to push down than mine. If this fixes the problem, that would be awesome!!! Again, thanks for the info!

    Stephen
     

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