Considering 5.3 Swap .. Few questions (yes I've searched)

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by evilWS6, Feb 15, 2015.

  1. hot72rod

    hot72rod Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Yes to both. The trans is in a different spot, defending on swap it could be father forward or back. It which case the drive has to be either shorten or lengthen.
     
  2. evilWS6

    evilWS6 Veteran Member

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    Thanks hot72. I've decided I'm going to do the LS swap with my TH350 for now. Anyone know what engine mount adapters I can use that would retain the stock SBC positioning so i wouldn't have to touch the driveshaft or the trans crossmember?

    Also, as far as the TH350 to 5.3 goes, tell me if I'm correct here...

    02 5.3 will already have the dished flex plate mounted on it, so I need:
    (gm parts direct numbers)
    SPACER - 12563532 This spacer supports the TH350 torque converter
    BOLT - 19257940 I am unsure if this is a pack of 6 or just 1, but these *should* be the longer bolts to work with the spacer.

    Is this all I need? Sorry for bouncing all over the place lol. Thanks again everyone!
     
  3. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    I answered your questions on ls1tech.com - get the GM spacer and according to my notes you need 6 of those bolts.

    Any swap mounts that are "1-inch back" will position the engine so that the trans does not need to move.

    Where in NY are you?
     
  4. evilWS6

    evilWS6 Veteran Member

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    Oh, damn! Just saw that, thanks man!
    Great, 1" back added to my notes.
    I'm near queens, NY.

    Hey Hot72, what belt are you using with your Dirty Dingo setup? Are you using the factory truck pulleys that all the accessories came with? I plan on going with the low mount alternator with the power steering up top in the factory location, but no A/C.

    I need an F-Body water pump too, correct? I remember reading the truck water pump doesn't fit with an LS1/6 intake manifold.

    Any recommendation on which 1" set back engine plates to use? I was originally going to go with Holley before I planned to keep my TH350 .. but it seems all of theirs move the motor forward.

    These say "stock location." Is this what i would want to use? The instructions say the following: "12611HKR engine swap mount kit is designed to locate a GEN III/IV (LS Based) engine so the transmission bellhousing is located in the same
    position as it was originally with a standard small block Chevy engine using a typical 3 bolt stock isolator mount.."

    https://www.holley.com/products/ls_...ission_mounts/ls_engine_mounts/parts/12611HKR

    This will bolt up to my '73 clam-shell style mounts, correct?
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2015
  5. hot72rod

    hot72rod Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I should be able to use the stock fbody belt. I have the numbers written down some were.

    Truth be told I have 2 water pumps setting here. Not sure which one is which. Not sure why the LS 1 intake wouldn't work with the truck water pump. I could see it being a problem if you are useing the truck factory air intake drop elbow, other then that I don't see a problem.
     
  6. bigwilly81z28

    bigwilly81z28 Veteran Member

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  7. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    The catch can wont stop the leaks, it will stop the flood of oil being sucked in
    to the intake that seems to be an LS trademark. I refer to my wifes '99 as the
    Exxon Valdez from all the oil it leaks and a "2-stroke" for the oil it burns. It isnt
    coming from the valve seals. If you read up on this, they were trying to fix it
    all the way to the end of the LS run. They even installed a factory drain back
    catch can on the last versions.

    Yup in that video we still had the original 2.41 gear set, a open diff, yet it was
    consistently spinning both rear tires .. go figure. With two people in the car it
    did a best 0-60 of 6.107 seconds. This is even more amazing if you look at the
    exhaust restriction that we have left over from fitting to the original CAT back:

    http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259226

    Since then we have installed a 3.42 posi rear end, but the exhaust needs the
    restrictor removed. You can feel power drop off - 3 inch tube down to 2-1/4!

    This is simply not true. Even if we allow the "better" comment, the install cost
    will be higher for all the issues listed above in this thread. Pan swap alone will
    set you back a few hundred.

    People have modded their stock trans cross member and you CAN use a Blazer
    2WD drive shaft as listed in my install thread.

    Tom
     
  8. evilWS6

    evilWS6 Veteran Member

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    bigwilly (lol try to type that without laughing) hit the nail on the head. Depends.

    That is impressive Tom! I have no idea what my current setup would do 0-60, as my speedo is way off lol.

    I gotta say, I'm writing everything down and so far the swap really isn't looking too bad. Between looking through junkyards, LS1Tech, and some local friends with sources for parts, it's not looking too bad at all. I guess we will see!

    Anyone know about the engine plates? Are the holley one's that I posted the kind I want to use?
     
  9. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    I have the Holley swap engine plates and want to get away from them, partly because they crowd the engine on the driver's side. However "normal" plates don't work with the Holley headers, which are by themselves quite nice.

    There are various cheaper "normal" plates available. A few years ago I used TransDapt and Edelbrock, but I know newer/better ones are available now and some are even front/back adjustable.

    Also, years ago people had problems with the F-body alternator position hitting the pitman arm on some Gen-2 models. Has this been resolved with a known cure? Seems the Holley swap mounts might make this worse. Personally I prefer the PS pump in the lower position and the alternator in the top position; the Holley 20-135 Accessory Bracket works well for this.
     
  10. evilWS6

    evilWS6 Veteran Member

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    Thanks for your response! I would love to hear some places that offer these plates, I've yet to figure out what manifolds/headers I can use.

    Anyone know if the f-body accessory drive location is an issue on early 2nd gens?

    Also, will that Holley accessory bracket make everything fit with a standard hood? Thanks man!
     

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