Cooling Problem with 454

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by Da_Raabi, May 3, 2019.

  1. Da_Raabi

    Da_Raabi Veteran Member

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    I finally took the Camaro on the interstate a few days ago, and while it ran well - its a good thing I only had on exit to go. By the time I got off I was approaching redline on the temp gauge. 65mph/3000k RPM the whole way.

    Specs are:
    --Stock 454
    --Carquest 433162 aluminum radiator
    --New hoses
    --New 180 deg t-stat
    --F-Body dual fans on a temp controller (but I overrode it by using the A/C wire to run both full blast)
    --Stock overflow bottle
    --Original water pump

    I'm running the 454 in front of a built TH350, 3.73s, 275/60r15 rear tires.

    Any ideas? By the time I got to work a mile later the temps were starting to come back down. If I had one more exit to go though, it probably would have overheated. Should I suspect the water pump?

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  2. BigBlock73

    BigBlock73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I have the same fans on BBC
    It worked so well I put a duel temp switch to control the fans.
    Haven't needed the second fan to come on yet.
    Everything else is new and looks good so I would suspect the water pump as well
     
  3. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I would get the water pump rebuilt. If you have never flushed the cooling system out then do that too. When it comes time to drain the system, I like to drain the block too and refill with 50/50 mix.
     
  4. Zspoiler

    Zspoiler Veteran Member

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    I would at least replace the water pump.Its probably very tired.
     
  5. Bandit723

    Bandit723 Veteran Member

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    How many cores does the radiator have?
     
  6. 1980RS

    1980RS Veteran Member

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    I run a 4 core copper brass with an electric fan on my Camaro and even after a hard run in 90° heat the hottest it gets is 185.
     
  7. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I also run with a copper 4 core with a 180* stat, factory clutch fan with no issues.
     
  8. Gary S

    Gary S Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'll follow this thread. I'd like to know what you eventually determine that the problem is. In all my years, I've never had a water pump cause a cooling problem, but I've never had one suffer an internal failure to cause one. In my experience, any factory water pump that isn't broken internally will pump more water than needed for cooling.
    I'd like to know if your water pump ends up being the problem, and if replacing it solves the problem, take the old one apart and do an autopsy on it to find out why.
     
    2ndGenCrazy likes this.
  9. jeff swisher

    jeff swisher Veteran Member

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    I have seen the stock water pumps with the blades almost all gone from circulating debris.
    His radiator is 1 core.
    But his 454 is stock also.
    Could be a bad thermostat or a bad temp gauge.

    I cook all my thermostats to see what temp they start to open and what temp they are fully open. Many 180 thermostats are full open at 195.
    And just barely open at 180 from my testing and my thermometers are right.I have 3 I used when I first began cooking . A fluke that is hooked to my Fluke 87 and a quick read digital and a slow read candy thermometer.

    Many times going down the road at highway speeds you get air pressure under the hood and you can pressurize the area to the point that the draw through the radiator is minimal because of the pressure.
    Most old cars had fan shrouds and a lot of pitch on the fan blades to really pull hard.
    I installed some aluminum under my 78 Nova to act like a belly pan and this greatly improved cooling.
    Raising the back of the hood on some cars let that pressurized air out from under the hood and allowed air to freely flow through the radiator.

    My 57 chevy got hotter on the highway than around town cruising.I raised the rear of the hood and fixed it.
    Later removed inner fenders and lowered the hood and that worked also.
     
  10. 1980RS

    1980RS Veteran Member

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    Here is something for you to look at. Open the rad cap with the car running and warmed up, note the amount of coolant running out of the tubes, is it fast or slow. If it's too fat than the coolant will never get a chance to get the heat taken out by the cooling fans, if it's to slow the hot coolant stays too long and keeps heating up. The best electric cooling fans I have used are the ones from a late 90's LeSabre and Bonneville. These 2 speed fans move some air and cost like $10 at the wrecking yards.
     
    jeff swisher likes this.

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