Crush sleeve eliminator kit help

Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by Raiph, Oct 9, 2015.

  1. Raiph

    Raiph New Member

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    I'm using a Yukon crush sleeve eliminator kit in my 8.5" 10 bolt. The problem I'm having is getting the pinion preload set to the specified 14-19 in/lb for these new bearings.

    A .0195 shim brings me to 24-26 in/lb of preload and a .021 shim only gets me to 8-9 in/lb of preload. I don't seem to have a combination of shims that gets me in between those, but could that .0015 really take me from below spec to way above it? Anybody have any suggestions on how to get this thing set right?
     
  2. perkalator

    perkalator Veteran Member

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    What are you using for a torque wrench, click or a quality dial indicator guage (not the cheap pointer style)
     
  3. bigdav160

    bigdav160 Veteran Member

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    Where do you get the 14-19 inch pound spec? Yukon?

    With a crush sleeve I always shoot for 25 inch pounds on new bearings and 15 for used bearings. Never had one fail tha I know of.
     
  4. big gear head

    big gear head Veteran Member

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    Put some 280 grit sand paper on a flat surface. Put the solid spacer on the paper and sand it until you remove about .0005 from that surface. Measure it in several places so that you are sure that you are removing an equal amount all the way around it. Put it in and see how it works. If that's not enough then remove some more. I've had to do this many times with the solid spacers.

    You can also make small adjustments to the preload by increasing the torque on the nut. I know that it's a solid spacer, but this works. Many of these kits recommend about 125 foot pounds of torque on the nut, but I go up to 200 foot pounds many times. The 9 inch Fords use 200 foot pounds for the spec, and they have a smaller pinion shaft than the 8.5.

    I usually go to 20-21 inch pounds of preload on the 8.5 with new bearings and gear oil on the bearings.
     
  5. 70RS_L48

    70RS_L48 Veteran Member

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    Keeping it flat...

    And if you move the spacer in a figure-8 motion it's easier to keep the surface you're sanding flat. I usually use a little light oil on the sandpaper to keep the removed metal in suspension.
     
  6. Raiph

    Raiph New Member

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    It's a $40 beam style torque wrench I forget the brand, 14-19 in/lb of preload came from the Yukon booklet that came with the gear set.

    I wound up putting the spacer on a whetstone and honed it down a touch. I was worried about keeping the thing perfectly square but it seemed to come out ok. I got the preload to 14 in/lb and since that was in the range of what the book called for I buttoned it up ( silicon on the yolk splines and locktite on the pinion threads and torqued the nut to 200 ft/lb which was also a spec from the yukon booklet. )

    I should have checked back before I got that far but I thought I finally had it licked. Do you think that I should take it apart and shoot for a higher preload now?
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  7. Protour-Camaro

    Protour-Camaro Veteran Member

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    Curious to know why you want to use a solid spacer? The crush sleeves works wonderfully.
     
  8. Raiph

    Raiph New Member

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    I tried a crush sleeve first and like an idiot I overshot it. It was sitting at 6 in/lb of preload with the crush sleeve and I got another 1/8 of a turn on the nut and the preload shot up to about 30 in/lb. I didn't think it would go that fast to be honest. I had read a bunch of people say that the solid spacer kits were a whole lot easier and reusable to boot, but this has turned into quite the pain in the butt as well.
     
  9. big gear head

    big gear head Veteran Member

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    I think I mentioned that in your other thread when you were talking about over shooting the preload. The solid spacers are a real pain to get set up correctly. So many trial assemblies to get it right when you can get it in one shot with the crush spacer (usually).
     

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