Dave Cozzi's 1970 RS Project (pic heavy)

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by dcozzi, Jan 16, 2011.

  1. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Looks like the injectors pumped so much gas into intake, I have to change the oil and filter. Fun!
    If all the troubleshooting I read about on FAST Forums and the internet does not work, I will go back to the Barry Grant. Like throwing $1800.00 cash into the fire.
    I bought this so long ago, any warranty is long over and there are so many stories of this product failing on the web, I am now suspect of its quality.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2019
  2. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    Great work so far!!
     
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  3. Dichard

    Dichard Veteran Member

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    Dave, there has to be a simple reason for what it was doing! If the fast system is anything like the MSD system it’s pretty straight forward. Thinking maybe something simple, like o-rings in the injectors?? I cringe at the thought of dumping $1800 down the pooter.. OUCH..
     
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  4. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Yeah I hear that. If you look on the web though there's tons of stories about this happening and no real answers on the fast forums. It goes back for many years. I'm trying every trick in the book like resistor spark plugs RFI suppressed plug wires checking all my pins and all my connectors and even went to a board with individual relays for everything to isolate the fuel injection system from the rest of the electronics. I wired the power directly to the battery like it says which also acts as an isolator so it doesn't get RFI noise. I know it ran long enough to put a base tune on it and this problem started the second time I fired it up. When I went to reconfigure it the stuff in the programmer was way off from the original settings. Somehow they changed. For example the size of the motor started at five hundred and something cubic inches and I had to dial it down from there.
     
  5. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Here's my little relay board I bought. I got some nylox and nylon standoffs and put it on a piece of plexiglass at I could install under the dash.
    20190928_142127.jpg
    20190929_002936.jpg
     
  6. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Usually over fueling only happens when there's a leak in the exhaust and the O2 sensor is seeing too much oxygen and it makes it run Pig rich. The only other thing I could see if the injectors were still pumping when the engine was off. That would definitely flood the motor with gasoline. I changed the oil today and it stunk like gas real bad. I put an extra quart through the valve covers to try to flush the crap out even more. Had to drop the driver side header to get the damn oil filter out so it was kind of a pain in the ass.
     
  7. Dichard

    Dichard Veteran Member

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    I’m hoping I don’t have that with the MSD Atomic system. I’m keeping the throttle assy in the house where it is air conditioned and more like being stored in a store than in a garage so poo doesn’t dry out or prematurely go bad, if you know what I mean. I almost went with the FAST system but I had read a lot more about the MSD system that had favorable ratings, so I went that route. That’s quite the wire system, those are relays?? Or circuit conditioners?? With the little diodes and transistors on the bottom, I would say the voltage going threw there is better than anything your going to find. Got a question for you on the positioning of the O2 sensor, on the MSD system, the sensor has to be at a certain angle and is a 3 wire O2. What does the fast system have, also does the system go closed loop until it warms up or is it always a closed loop system with a MAF sensor?? It’s a bit odd that your system also changes when you go back into it. It’s almost like the constant voltage for the memory isn’t there. Usually there is trickle voltage for the memory, but if the system has a glitch so that isn’t being saved, there might be a work around..that’s frustrating as hell.. what’s really pooty is FAST system isn’t standing behind there product. That’s just Fu *dked Up. Good luck keep posting up dates.. till I get my happy ass back out to the garage and start putting the Camaro back together..
     
  8. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    They are just good, name brand, Potter and Brumfield relays mounted on a board. They have a common trigger input so they all trigger using the crank/run output of the fuse panel and a good ground. My plan is to isolate the power to eliminate any interference to the injection module. The diodes should eliminate any power or signal "backflow". The board was $30 on amazon. I figured it was worth it instead of putting together my own board and it is real compact. I could see using their 8 or 16 relay boards for a racecar as well. Seems to be a solid unit.

    The instructions say to mount the O2 sensor n the header collector or shortly after it and have at least a 10 degree angle, pointing downward so it will not accumulate any condensation. I mounted mine about 6" after the collector because there was more room under the car. The header would eliminate one more possible source of air being introduced by a leaky collector gasket to mess up the A/F ratio.

    It is a closed loop system with a MAF sensor. The O2 sensor is a 6-pin connector with 5 actual pins and 4 wires going into it. Looks like +, -, Tx and Rx.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2019
  9. 71RSLS

    71RSLS Veteran Member

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    Sorry to hear of your issues. I've had friends that have had issues with different injection control units before and it always ended in buying another set up. I really hope yours does not turn out that way.
     
  10. riderwestslope

    riderwestslope Veteran Member

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    Hi Dave, I just came across your build. I've got one of the Fast 1.0 kits on my car too. I scanned back several pages and it looks like that's what you're running. My car also ran stupid rich when I first started running it. I would start it up in the garage and within a minute the eyes were watering and you smelled like exhaust fumes for the rest of the day. I too had to dump the oil and change out at least one set of spark plugs because they fouled out. Double check and make sure your fuel pressure is right and sustaining. I found that if your fuel pressure begins to drop, it will throw a O2 sensor error. My engine is a 385 cubic inch small block around 450 horsepower maybe. When I called one of their technicians he told me to go back and reset my parameters and reduce the cubic inches. He had me enter in that it was 350 cubic inches. He said as the system learned it would figure out how much fuel made it happy. I'm also at about 6,000 feet which may have played a role. It immediately made a difference, but the biggest thing that helped was to get out and drive it. I probably had between 200 and 300 miles before it really cleaned up, it runs good now, and the rich problem is solved. If you do Facebook, there's a couple of pretty good Fast EFI groups on there with some pretty sharp guys in it that are willing to help. Just my two cents.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2019
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