Dave Cozzi's 1970 RS Project (pic heavy)

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by dcozzi, Jan 16, 2011.

  1. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    riderwestslope, thanks for the info! All actual experiences are like gold compared to speculation and trial and error.
    Maybe I should wait until it is drivable then. I have other things to do in the meantime. I am also wondering if the .560 lift cam is giving it issues. It's pretty lopey at idle and I did not immediately drive it, like I probably should.
     
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  2. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    I have found as the duration and overlap increases, & better collector designs used, it shows a "false lean" at idle on the O2 gauge.

    Your "lopey" idle may in fact point to this as being perhaps the issue and main cause of your over-fueling idle issues.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2019
  3. riderwestslope

    riderwestslope Veteran Member

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    No problem, I've been messing with mine for I guess a couple years now. I had about a year-and-a-half where I barely moved it, just in and out of the driveway and garage while I tried to get the paint and the rest of the car together. I was always worried that I needed to get it out and seat the rings since it was a fresh build and didn't want to wash out the bearings with too much fuel in the oil. I didn't really run it more than I had to until it was road ready. It didn't seem like any of this really ever became an issue and I was finally able to get it out and run it through its paces. If you run into any other issues feel free to reach out and I will try to help you how I can.
     
  4. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Thank you!

    The FAST tech support email help is really decent. They told me to keep the wiring 6" or more from other wiring in the car. Almost an impossibility but, I will get the wires out of the loom that contain the alternator charging wire (duh) and as far away as possible.

    They said it is VERY sensitive to noise. I do not know why they did not use shielded wiring and/or drain wires in the design. Also, said to check all readings and battery voltage at cranking.
     
  5. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Interesting. I figured a "larger than usual" cam would freak out the system a bit.
    O2 getting in during overlap?
     
  6. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Yep, you figured correctly, at least in my view, and yes, that's one of the areas effecting this, overlap, valve closing events, pressure waves/reversion at low/idle RPM's, cam & head design, port flow efficiency on the exhaust side, and intake side and a host of other things...... I just tune according to what the engine/carb needs/wants, and do not "tune" to a certain idle AFR #. Once set, I will note the idle AFR # for my notes and baseline for future reference.

    I also noticed it a little leaner when the O2 bungs are downstream of the collector vs in each pipe, but it's very close, could be the bung length vs the shorter ones in each header pipe. Then again, it's averaging one full bank compared to each individual cylinder.
     
  7. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    I was going to put new valve cover gaskets on my engine since the cork ones have hardened and leak. After I got them cleaned up I realized how cheesy they were since they were just stamped metal with a chrome plate that was already rusting through in some spots. I remembered I had these in the shed so I gave him a little touch with a wire wheel and put the new $50 reusable Fel-Pros on them.
    20191015_152925.jpg
     
  8. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    I also opened up all the wire looms. I removed all unnecessary wiring including the old wires to the air conditioning and heater suitcase. I took the charging wire for the alternator and routed it directly to the battery as well as ran the ignition crank and run wire for my fuel injection through the firewall and under the dash away from all ignition stuff according to the instructions I got from fast. I was going to fire it up this weekend but I broke one of the spark plugs when I remove them and this particular plug is discontinued and only available in backstock and $9 and something each on Amazon. Of course Champion does not make an identical one in that heat range with a tapered end so it looks like I will have to search other brands to see if I can even come close. It is a V59YC (672). Cold heat range. 14 mm thread 16 mm nut tapered seat with 11.2 mm thread length and a 1.5 mm insulator stick out.
    20191018_200840.jpg
     
  9. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Here is the routing of the wiring. here is the routing of the wiring. You can see all my voltage goes across the front of the motor now instead of to the wire loom on the firewall. The Pink wire goes through the firewall and sits under the dash about 10 inches away from any other wires.
    20191018_200722.jpg 20191018_200713.jpg 20191018_200705.jpg
     
  10. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Found a cold plug with a tapered seat. AC Delco R43TS. Cold but not at the bottom of the chart, just like the Champion V59YC.

    Emailed FAST all the readouts and they said the ECU is malfunctioning and they are giving me an RMA to return it. Jeezless! Will the car ever run? Who knows. What I do know is I am measuring for my wheels right now. I can get a 335/30/18 inside the fender lip. Meaty.
     

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