Describe your idea of the perfect street 383

Discussion in 'High Performance Modifications' started by RS1970, Sep 9, 2011.

  1. RS1970

    RS1970 Veteran Member

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    Thanks for the advice Eric. Great name by the way. (same here)

    The heads are being fully rebuilt right now. So that takes care of that part.
    I have not bought a carb yet. I'm on the fence between a DP or VS 700/750.

    For the bottom end I have a Crower steel crank, 3.75" stroke. 5.7 rods and a set of hyperutectic pistons I may upgrade to forged. I have not done the mock up yet. At that time I will see if I want to deck the block to get things dialed in.
    I do have a hi flow water pump.
    The cam mentioned in the other thread looks like a winner at this point.
    It should be a really fun motor with this T56 behind it, good brakes and suspension will let me abuse it even more.
    I have a great machinist doing all the prep for me including balance. I have very high quality parts going in this and refuse to short cut anything on it.
     
  2. EricsZ28

    EricsZ28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I would go with a mechanical secondary carb with a manual trans. I think you'll be on the fence between 700 and 750 - it just depends upon how high you intend to rev between shifts. That just my $0.02. There are some much more experienced guys on here!

    Good luck, Eric!
     
  3. RS1970

    RS1970 Veteran Member

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    The motor is actually 388 cid. A 750 with the right tune should be fine considering the cam, heads and intake. If I get a chance to try both 700 & 750 on the dyno I will (chassis dyno near me). I just need to find a couple of loaner carbs to play with.

    Good point about the mech secondary and manual trans. That pretty much answers that. And the fact that I will not be sitting in Seattle commuter traffic ever in that car. Its a back road fun kind of build. It has to be strong, reliable and very durable because I am going to beat it on a regular basis. :happy:
     
  4. gregs78cam

    gregs78cam Member

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    My 385, has TFS 23* heads, 10.5:1, tight quench, Probe Dished pistons, C&A gapless rings, 6" Eagle rods, 5140 crank, all balanced, Jesel belt Drive, and a Comp Hyd Roller 4/7 swap cam:224/230@.050, .525/.524. When I had the T-56/4.10 it ran rich and put 340/370 to the tires. Now it's DTBI and 4L80E, runs great gets 15.6MPG and hopefully will get it back on the dyno soon.
     
  5. RS1970

    RS1970 Veteran Member

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    I am in the Seattle area.

    What made you decide on the 4/7swap?
    Sounds like a pretty stout motor, but with those specs shouldn't it have made a little more power? Maybe the rich condition was choking it a little?
     
  6. gregs78cam

    gregs78cam Member

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    When I was building it I was looking at longevity, and from what I was reading the 4/7 swap reduced harmonics in the crankshaft, that was also the reason I went with a belt drive, to reduce hamonics getting to the cam and valvetrain. Yes I think, and the dyno operator agreed that there was a good amount of power left in it (10:1AFR on his WBO2). I just didn't have the money to sit on the dyno to tune it at the time. Now I have wideband and EFI and it does feel a lot better. But the point was I built it to be fun on the street and with the torque at all rpms it is. I also knew I would go EFI one day and didn't want to spend hundreds of hours tuning, so I chose a "smaller" cam than what a lot of people would have put in a 383. When it was carbed it pretty much gave up @5500, but now I have a bit more plenum volume and it seems to pull pretty well up to 6K.
     
  7. RS1970

    RS1970 Veteran Member

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    Ok, that makes sense I guess. I have never looked into the 4/7 swap before.
     
  8. trmnatr

    trmnatr Veteran Member

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    Some cam companies charge more for a 4/7 swap, Comp does. Crane doesn't if your one of their customers, such as a builder or machine shop

    There is also a 4/7 & 2/3 swap, very expensive on these as they start with a round lobe core, the firing order is LS1 firing order, some call is "C" firing order. Rods hook onto the crank, in this order (Cylinder #) 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8

    The LS1 firing order is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 , the purpose it to go from front to back, then straight up the middle on the 3 center caps which are either 4 bolt, or splayed in most all engines. With header tubes paired like an LS1, there will be a power gain here, the amount depends on the engine

    We have three LS1 firing order grinds
     
  9. RS1970

    RS1970 Veteran Member

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    I had no idea there was so much in the way of firing order swaps. In the interest of cost and complexity i am going traditional firing order. Lol!

    Any idea how much hp a eddy rpm airgap intake and a set of RHS 200cc , 2.02/1.60 heads can support on a 388 cid motor?
    I would really like to hit 500+hp if possible.
     
  10. wardracing

    wardracing Veteran Member

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    i just picked up a 383 blueprint budget stomper, 10:1 compression, blueprint aluminum heads, 480 lift 229 duration at .50 lift hydraulic flat tappet cam

    http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Eng...inum-Heads-383ci-420HP-450TQ/1197263/10002/-1

    eddy air gap intake, jegs pro sfi 8 inch balancer, fidanza lightweight flywheel, jegs aluminum high flow water pump.

    msd hei pro billet dizzy, jegs ceramic coated long tubes, lt1 t56, 3.73 richmond gear dana 60 rear with moser shortened and resplined axles and ford 9 wheel bearings.

    holley’s brand new series 750 cfm fully adjustable ULTRA HP series carb in special edition black.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-80803HB/10002/-1?parentProductId=1629658

    holley mechanical fuel pump, lightweight driveshaft and light weight rear disc conversion

    engines dyno sheet say 430 hp to crank im assuming i will loose between 15-20% hp loss so that means 350+ bhp and this is mostly street car:)
     

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