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Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by Lars_2Gen, Jan 21, 2019.
Brake clean evaporates pretty quick. I like using it on yellow jackets and weeds in the walkway.
That's the plan!
Yep, thanks! The bolt that broke is the one holding the brake junction block.
Brake cleaner does evaporate, but the contaminated oil that has been broke down by the brake cleaner does not. This is what will contaminate the new oil and can cause problems. If the rear end is not in the car and can be rotated so that everything can be drained, or if it is disassembled where everything can be cleaned out, then it's fine. Its the oil that is trapped between the inner and outer pinion bearings and in the axle tubes that can not be cleaned out.
a tip.......get a BIG magnet......put in ziplock bag....place close to where you are making a mess!!!
it will catch ALOT....then simply use it to clean up your mess also. put ziploc INSIDE another bag...then remove your magnet...
First, heat the broken bolt till it glows red. Let it cool. Using a larger size nut say a 1/2" nut (not the 3/8" that would have fit the broken bolt), turn the stick welder up as high as it'll go an BURN weld the nut to the broken bolt. Let it cool until the color is out of it. Take a candle (any small candle) and push it against the nut which should suck into the threads. Now try turning the nut in a little but then out a little bit. Keep working the nut a very little in and then out more.
Trust me, I've done this more times that I can count and it works. Heat and wax are your friends. IF the nut twists off, get another one and do it again. I had to get three broken bolts out of the 12 bolt rear that is now in the 87 S10 Xcab drag truck.
Bolts in the cover are 5/16-18, not 3/8-16.
To remove the broken bolt do this:
I do this all day long 1.2 million dollar transmissions this should definitely work for the diff.
Get a drill bit about 1/2 the size of the bolt, drill dead center at least half way into the bolt, get an easy out like the one guy has in the this same thread, drive it in there with an 8 oz ball peen, (don’t smoke it into the hole, but drive it in so it won’t just fall out) turn counter clockwise until the bolt comes out.
Now in the event this thing is stuck in the hole harder than the hounds of hell, then you will have to get a drill bit almost the size of the bolt and drill it out, cave the sides of what is left of the bolt out blow it out with some compressed air, run a tap in the hole and done.. 3 hours later that is..
Hope this helps.. any questions just send a reply, i’ll Be more than happy to walk you through it.
Decided to pull the rear end and have the bolt removed. Prior to that I pulled a muscle in my back trying to drill it out from under the car... cost me a few hundred in medical bills and a few weeks of lost time... would have been cheaper just to take it out from the start.
This gives me a chance to clean and paint the rear end and replace all the bushings so probably the best thing in the end.
I took it to a shop that specializes in removing broken bolts and taps. I had called a few differential shops... one who suggested drilling a new hole next to the old one rather than removing the bolt. Others didn't want to touch it.