Door hinge pins and bushings issue...

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by brownz, Aug 29, 2010.

  1. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I replaced my bushings over 20 years ago. No locktite used.
    I've kept the hinges lubed and driven the car over 80k miles in that time.
    If I open the door and lift the rear corner... All motion is transferred to moving the car on its suspension.
    I can't see or feel any movement in the door hinge/pins/bushings area.
    That's using a 5 foot long lever (the door) which tends to magnify any motion in the hinge.
    A rebuilt hinge will be quite tight to rotate through its travel without the leverage of a door moving it.

    Hope that helps!
     
  2. l16pilot

    l16pilot Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Yes, both of my 70 hinge sets I've done recently, (including the latest set 2 weeks ago) had plastic bushings. One was an 05C Norwood and the recent pair I got off an 06B Van Nuys car.
     
  3. Hey G

    Hey G Veteran Member

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    CamarosRus, since you build engines you might appreciate this. I am a machinist and the first thing that came to mind about your question is american national standards for running and sliding fits from machinery's handbook. In my opinion, this is a running class fit of RC7. Which means its intended for use where accuracy is not essential and/or wide temperature variation exists. For the door pin size...the clearance should be .0016" to .0039"...hole size should be -.000" to +.0014"...pin size should be -.0016" to -.0025" (those are minus signs). If you have proper measuring tools, you can check these numbers as a ball park and see what you get with your new parts. I know this is probably a little over kill, but hey its what we do...I hope it helps.

    G
     

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