I thought I'd copy this over from my regular progress thread since it addresses an LS Swap issue I've seen in the past. Hopefully it will help others out with the same issue. I borrowed the alternator off my LS1 TA for mock up purposes so I could check the pitman arm to alternator clearance. This is a known issue (for some) when using the F-body front drive accessories on a 2nd Gen Camaro LS Swap. Firebirds used a dropped pitman that I believe usually provides enough clearance, so it probably isn’t an issue for the 2nd Gen Pontiac LS Swaps. Here the alternator bolted in place with my longer TA belt showing the proposed belt routing. Note the orange-handled clamp on the belt taking up the extra length. I really wanted to run the alternator in the factory F-body position for the clean appearance, but unfortunately for me, I have significant interference between my pitman and alternator. I have seen some guys get around this issue by grinding the castle nut and ball stud, but I pre-ground mine in anticipation of this issue and still have contact. Others have shimmed their motor higher, but I really don’t want to go much higher for CG reasons and besides, this isn’t an area where “just barely clears” is good enough for me. Others have solved the problem by swapping to the dropped Firebird pitman arm. This is a good option if you’re running power steering, but this isn’t a good option for me. I’ve swapped to a manual steering box but I’m still using the “power” DS829 center link, so I’ve got a non-stock Borgeson pitman set up. If I were to swap to a Firebird manual dropped pitman, I’d also have to swap to a hard to find DS830 center link. So the final way to cure this is to relocate the alternator. I think I’ve come up with a pretty decent way to relocate the alternator to the driver’s side head with very little trouble. All I’ll need to do is slightly modify my F-body alternator bracket (minor grinding) and build a very simple flat bar bracket as an additional support. I also swapped the idler pulley on the bracket for an actual ribbed pulley to maintain better belt alignment. Here’s what the set up should look like. The only thing I have left to check is my inner fender clearance, but I think I’ll be fine there. There are some belt/mounting bolt interference issues right now, but those will be taken care of with a swap to the factory alternator pulley. The one pictured is a larger underdrive piece. Everything lines up fine with no shimming because the head (new mounting location) and the block (original mounting location) are perfectly in line with one another. Obviously this wouldn’t be a good option for someone wanting to retain power steering, but should work great for me. Beats paying $168.00 for a Kwik Performance alt relocation bracket that does the same thing. I finished up my alternator relocation project this afternoon and I think it turned out really well. Here are some pictures of it bolted in place with the really simple flat bar bracket I made. I had to clearance the back of the stock aluminum bracket so the new steel bracket could align behind it. It’s mounted solid as a rock now. Once I had it mounted I mocked up the driver’s side inner fender and it’s not even close to being an issue. I’m not sure why I was even concerned there. The driver’s side coil pack bracket was very, very close, but ended up not needing any clearancing to fit properly either.