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Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by 7.62fmj, Mar 25, 2019.
Don't trust the aftermarket TV cable brackets. They aren't correct.
Learned that one from the TCI kit. Are the Holley brackets no good?
Jakes right. The Holley kickdown brackets are not right either. Every one of the aftermarket brackets I tested had the wrong placement of the attachment point and created the wrong arc. In fact the TCI was the worst one. Some people will claim any of the aftermarket brackets are fine, but until you have it right you won’t know how good these old OD trannys can shift.
I ended up finding a factory setup to determine attachment point, arc and pull distance at various intervals and then built a custom adjustable bracket to match. Once I did that the shift points were correct at the right pressures and shifts at light throttle were firm, but not harsh, and became firmer and more delayed as throttle opened further. The custom bracket allowed full WOT at the carburetor linkage with the TV plunger buried in the sleeve on the valve body, and at idle the pressure was just 2-3 pounds higher than what is was with the cable disconnected. This is what you want, but you also have to be sure the pull is greater earlier in the rotation or you run the risk of the torque curve exceeding the required pressure for a given pull. You also want to be absolutely sure the pressure rises as soon as the throttle lever moves.
I have heard several people like the TV Made EZ but I have not personally used it. http://www.tvmadeez.com/
Whatever you do, buy a pressure gauge, hook it to the pressure port on the drivers side of the tranny above the shift lever and verify your TV setup once you have what you believe is the right setup.
I used the TV Made EZ bracket setup but it was with a q-jet.
It worked well once I got it adjusted correctly. (With a gauge connected.)
I’ve put around 50k miles on this
transmission without problems.
My son used their bracket too.
(Edelbrock carb I believe.)
Both of us run 2004R transmissions.
I'll take another look at the BTO kit, was trying to avoid the additional cost. I don't have the ability to make a custom bracket, but I probably know a few people that do. The guy that built my transmission is right down the street and he said he has to set up the TV cable and verify pressures before he'll warranty it. I definitely plan on watching what he does so I can adjust if needed down the road.
The factory 4th gear switches are NC so you need a NO for a lockup kit to work easily.
I made up a lockup kit which works great but was expensive as I went over the top. I used 2 vacuum switches, a timer, a rpm window switch and about 6 relays. The idea here was to delay 4th gear lock until I was in a steady high vacuum condition, hence the timer. The second vacuum switch is used in conjunction with the first one and together they give me a “vacuum window” which is easily adjusted. This way I can set the high vacuum switch to lock the converter and I can keep it locked until vacuum falls to the low vacuum switch which unlocks it. This keeps the converter locked under light to semi moderate acceleration. Saves gas and keeps heat down. The rpm switch stops it locking at low revs which isn’t fun with a cam with 230° on 107° centres.
This is the geometry you are trying to get. And yes none of the aftermarket bracket manufacturers have ever used the above to design theirs as they always off by a mile.