Flat tappet guys, what oil to keep it alive?

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by severum17, Sep 4, 2019.

  1. muscl car

    muscl car Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Valvoline VR1 20/50 and a bottle of Hyper lube Zinc replacement additive at ea oil change
     
  2. 73 Z

    73 Z Veteran Member Gold Member

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    VR1 and zinc, good luck!
     
  3. Smokin'Joe

    Smokin'Joe Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Awhile back, I lost a cam lobe/lifter just after a fresh rebuild. I will only use VR1 these days. Had not heard about the "Driven" before, but have had no issues since running the VR1

    --
     
  4. l16pilot

    l16pilot Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    ^^^^^:)
     
  5. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    I agree with this quote from Bonzo, experienced this on many occasions, and when the owner has absolutely no issues as the years go by, it's hard to argue against it and what works for them.

    Some of the DIRT crates use Mobile 1 after break-in, and they get pounded to death, springs get changed, but pistons are the first to go usually, or should i say shatter..nothing with the cam lobes in most cases, FT Hyd.
     
  6. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Regardless of the viscosity, be it straight or multi grade, the VR1 contains 1,400 ppm of Zinc and 1,300 ppm of Phosphorus, more of each by adding in a supplement/additive may not in fact actually give more protection, in "most" cases, the additive may in fact bugger up the balance of what the oil was design to do.

    But as per my post above, once the "critical" part of the break in occurs, you could use several oils, and even the good oils with the required ZDDP, along with an additive and it will not help or hurt anything, just add to the cost of the oil change.

    I use the EDM (.012) "cool face" lifters for my FT solid SBC, dyno & break-in with BR Driven, 300-400 street miles afterwards, then only used VR1 10/30, no additive. Set up for 155/355 over the nose, only lost 3% seat pressure in over 2.5 years, no lash change, mind you it's the easy/old style "Magnum" ramps, but just goes to show the VR1 does it's job in most cases.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2019
  7. 70lt1z28

    70lt1z28 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I know its hard to tell, but anyone notice a pressure drop when going with the EDM holes? I'm inclined to go with them, but my engine guy said he has seen pressure drop but wouldn't say how much. They are a leak and multiplied by 8 could be as much as a 0.100 diameter hole, but is essentially a plugged hole with them on the face of the cam lobe, except when its on the clearance area which is ~50-70 degrees. Seems like a good idea really.
     
  8. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Yes, I noticed right away. But, I was not really taking detailed notes at that time, although the oil was the same, the oil temps were not always the "exact" same when testing began, so take that for what it is.

    But, from my limited notes, and recollection, going from regular Crane solid lifters to the Howards EDM's (that came in around 20/24 thou on center) dropped about 6-10 psi at hot idle and lower rpm's, mostly the same pressure at high RPM' (5,500-7,300) this was with a Crane with 252/260 @ .050 with .026 lash/hot and Moroso HV anti-cavitation pump with balance grooves, so no worries about volume or pressure as I incorporate other "leak" paths to make things survive, and do not restrict any oil to the top end to make my springs live on the road course.

    Noticed a little less pressure drop with the Comp EDM's (.012 @ 4-8psi/ on center) but that was with the old "Magnum" ramps at 262/262 @ .050 lashed at .022 hot. Both cams used the same springs (155/355).
     
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  9. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Just out of curiosity, did you try the 10/30 VR1?, I have found some HP grading down, you may find some ET/MPH perhaps, unless your running on the "large" side for clearances and are up on the oil temps, or using Hyd-Roller.
     
  10. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Unless an engine is set up to use 20w50, it would probably do more harm than good. That stuff is thick. Harder to pump, slower to drain back. I almost bought the Lucas hot rod oil until I researched it and found nothing but negative feedback. They also make a zinc additive, but it looks quite thick too. VR1 has lots of good feedback and appears to do what it is supposed to.

    Mobil 1 makes good stuff too. I use 15w50 synthetic in my old Harley and it has been going well over 100,000 miles without being apart. It is thinner than the 20w50 Harley oil though, and tends to leak past the oil pump check ball since the tank is higher than the pump. So, it barfs out about half a quart from the case breather in the spring on first start up. What's a Harley without an oil barf once in a while anyways?
     

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