GM's LS oil leakers / burners or "The 2 stroke Chevy"

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by sbca96, Jun 11, 2014.

  1. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    I realize what I am doing, but the 12637677 doesn't have a weight, but it doesn't
    come up as a valid replacement. 12563136 is yet another new number.

    I just want an uncracked flipping part that will bolt onto this damn engine so I can
    get it out of my garage and move onto the next Chevy that doesnt work right.

    How can I confirm that Leonards used flexplate will work BEFORE he ships it to me?

    Tom
     
  2. Leonards78LT

    Leonards78LT Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    It looks exactly like the one you have, according to your picture,

    [​IMG]
     
  3. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Leonard, see PM please. Thanks.

    Tom
     
  4. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Well, for whatever reason my PM, EMail and thread message to Leonard has yet
    to be answered ... but I still have a car to put back together. I went ahead and
    ordered the Pioneer brand flex plate from Rockauto, 54 dollars plus shipping. The
    part came yesterday and I compared it to the original. Warnings first ..

    Scaryyy....

    [​IMG]

    Other than being a different pattern its dimensionally the same, except just a bit
    thicker material, the GM one came in at .122 thk and the Pioneer at .124 thk.

    [​IMG]

    Meshed together they lined up close enough for the uneven concrete floor.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It also has the two round and one slotted hole to mount the Torque Converter.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Made in Mexico (but I will bet the GM one was made in China).

    [​IMG]

    It mounted up perfectly.

    [​IMG]

    I got the Trans in, the bolts all torqued, the TC torqued to the flex plate, I did
    each bolt down snug and backed off. Turned the engine and put the next in.
    The once all were in, I removed them, put blue Loctite, torqued and then put
    a chalk "X" next to the bolt to let me know I didnt miss one. Hardest part to
    put back on was the dipstick tube, fought with it for a while. Wiring put back
    on, vent hose unpinched at the torque arm mount (fluid drained out), cooler
    lines reinstalled. Cross member tightened, and trans mount. Whew.

    [​IMG]

    Still a little ways to go yet, but made good progress. I bought a Hastings filter
    kit which I will do tomorrow.

    So that leaves, Y-pipe, Torque Arm, & starter and then fire up the 2 stroke.

    Tom
     
  5. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Special LS1 4L60E transmission filter seal puller?

    So, for 1000 years GM just used a simple rubber o-ring that usually came out of
    the case with a light tug with your pinky. Today however they have a seal with
    a metal case that is apparently hammered into the transmission case. I have all
    the rubber torn out of it by using my c-clip pliers (without ends installed) in the
    attempted removal process. All the instructions say to "not damage the bore", I
    have yet to see a thread on exactly how to do this.

    I read a post about using a welders pick to roll the edge, though I can not catch
    the edge with anything and I could not find a pick at Walmart or Oreillys.

    I got the drive shaft, torque arm and vent hose reinstalled.

    Tom
     
  6. dale68z

    dale68z Veteran Member

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    I crush in one side of the filter seal. I use a screwdriver and hammer to do that. Pull the seal out with pliers
     
  7. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Yah ... I cant seem to catch an edge to do that. Its flush.

    Tom

     
  8. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    So .. no one in town sells a pick to hammer in there. I bought a piece of 1/2
    pipe to thread into it, but that didnt work either. I am assuming that trick only
    works if you havent already torn all the rubber out of the seal.

    The last trick they mention is a pilot bearing puller, but my local stores only rent
    the heavy duty slide hammer type. Not the light duty threaded one.

    I dont even want to look at it anymore.

    Tom
     
  9. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    I found a super small screwdriver, a Craftsmen (so I knew I wouldn't break it
    easily) and I was able to just catch the edge of the metal using my VERY
    strong glasses to see. I got it deformed a little then used a chisel to get it
    away from the bore. It started moving FURTHER into the bore, but with a
    screwdriver I was able to coax it down and out. I fought with the new seal
    for a while to get it to go in straight, but once it did I drove it in and put the
    pan on.

    [​IMG]

    What a pain.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So .. Starter, Exhaust and oil change (High Mileage Synthetic Mobil 1) .. fill
    trans (with TransX for extra measure), put strut tower brace on and I can
    start it up. Any idea how many quarts of oil the trans takes? I drained it,
    then put the pan back on to remove the trans and then during the removal
    process the trans pan was FULL of fluid again. I guess the torque converter?

    Once I get it started again .. and IF I have no leaks .. I still have to resolve
    the LSx oil in the intake with a catch can issue.

    Tom
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2014
  10. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    With the engine off, add ATF until it reads about 1 inch above the "full" line on the trans dip stick. That will give you a safe amount to start the engine.
    Then either just it with the wheels in the air, or just easy around the block. Then with the engine running check the dipstick again.

    A complete empty rebuilt trans and converter take about 13 quarts! Just draining the pan only gets about 5 quarts out. That is why there is no simple question about "how many quarts".

    When everything is properly filled and working, the ATF level will be about 1" higher with the engine off than with the engine running.
     

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