GM's LS oil leakers / burners or "The 2 stroke Chevy"

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by sbca96, Jun 11, 2014.

  1. hot72rod

    hot72rod Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I can tell you this if the threads are messed up you will not get a good seal and oil will get by even with tape.
     
  2. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    More research last night .. hours and hours of reading threads and re-reading
    threads I already read. Oil leaks and LS1 engines go hand in hand. Mostly on
    F-bodies. I read so many "why is my car STILL leaking" threads. Quite a few
    rear seals that didn't resolve the problem. Revisited "Block Porosity" there is a
    TSB .. I'm hoping that's not the problem, but its a REAL thing I guess.

    I also read that the flex plate bolts are torque to yield. Thats just wonderful.
    Another gem : the threaded hole in the back of the crank are THROUGH holes!
    Yah .. the are open on the inside to the engine, every time I think GM sunk to
    a new low in design, they surprise me again. The only thing that keeps oil
    from leaking through them is locking compound on the bolts and the thread
    pitch. I assumed they mention to replace the bolts because they come with
    locking compound on them, not because they are TTY. I didn't see this info
    listed in any of the install info I read, only on a forum. Perhaps not true? I
    did check the pictures I took of the crank with the bolts out and they confirm
    the holes are in fact through. I also found a good post on a G8 Forum (from
    Australia) that explains the TTY and through hole leakage issue.

    http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=23368

    [​IMG]

    Next common oil leak is the cam sensor, but GM has NO O-ring replacement,
    you must buy the entire sensor assembly for 100 dollars plus tax.

    [​IMG]

    The cam sensor is just a simple magnetic pickup. As I mentioned it does not
    seal at the top, but down lower, and when it leaks will look like a bad rear main
    seal. It will leak out the back of the block into the bell housing and down the
    edge of the rear cover gasket. I am not sweating the rear cover/seal change
    I did, since there was the stripped pan bolt anyway. Just its very likely this
    is leaking as well. Since GM was a dead end, I searched more and found that
    its a dash 113 O-ring. I bought two from Oriellys since the crankshaft sensor
    apparently uses the same size o-ring.

    [​IMG]

    Next common leak is the crankshaft sensor. It is located on the drivers side
    above the starter. I recall asking what that was in another post, no one knew.
    At any rate, it will get a new o-ring when I get the top back together with the
    resealed OPS and new cam sensor o-ring installed.

    [​IMG]

    I also found yet another common leak point, above the oil filter there is a little
    2 bolt cover GM added just for extra leak possibilities.

    [​IMG]

    Its number 17 in this picture, the gasket, number 16, is ONLY available from GM
    from what I could find. The part # .. was .. 12553210, then it was 12593253
    and now 12611384. Dealership gets a chunk of change for this (for what it is).

    [​IMG]

    Tom
     
  3. Mike N

    Mike N Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The two bolt cover is where the oil cooler lines attach for truck applications.
     
  4. reedld

    reedld Veteran Member

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    Tom, nice find on the o rings...hope it works.

    Leon
     
  5. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    You will soon be the LS engine oil leak expert. :)
    Thanks for posting the part numbers; I plan to buy them just to have handy if needed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2014
  6. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    This will remind me not to ever own a LS.:eek:
     
  7. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    I got the new oring on, a dab of clean synthetic engine oil, cleaned the bore with
    an old tooth brush and clean synthetic engine oil and it slid in. I moved the part
    up and down in the bore a little and then torqued it down. 216 inch pounds. Then
    taped the fug out of the OPS, checked the threads one more time, and carefully
    threaded the OPS into the hole BY HAND to make sure thread contact felt good.
    Torqued it down to 180 inch pounds. Slapped some Permatex on the old coolant
    crossover gaskets and snugged those two bolts down last night.

    Today was supposed to be the intake, but I have been fighting the front gasket
    on the passenger side again. It just keeps popping out of the bore no matter if
    I use some silicone or not. Last time I had to use a little dab to keep it in there
    but now its not wanting to stay at all. Of course none of the parts store have a
    gasket set in stock. I am trying to devise a way to hold the gasket while I install
    the intake manifold.

    Tom
     
  8. hot72rod

    hot72rod Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Try grease. Just a dab of white lithium.
     
  9. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    I think it needs to be sticky. The o-ring has apparently expanded and since its
    oily it pops out of the bore. I put it into the freezer and will see if I can put the
    intake on and then lift the front slap the o-ring in place and drop it down before
    it comes popping out of the bore.

    They could make that a new game at Chucky Cheese!

    Tom
     
  10. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    It seems incredible that none of your parts stores has a gasket set.
    The best is Fel-Pro MS92438; my local O'Reilly got my first set in a few hours. I ordered my last set from Amazon ($21).

    So I just checked online...
    Your local O'Reilly wants $22 and says they can have it within a few hours.
     

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