GM's LS oil leakers / burners or "The 2 stroke Chevy"

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by sbca96, Jun 11, 2014.

  1. Knuckle Dragger

    Knuckle Dragger Mayor of Simpleton Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I work a fleet of 150 cars, over half are Tahoes with the 5.3. We rarely get oil leaks and when we do they are easily fixed. None of the other precinct mechanics report ongoing issues with leaks either. I'd guess that's at least 1,000 Tahoes with 5.3s and no nightmare oil leaks. I'll bet I can find internet horror stories about just about anything if that's what I'm looking for. I'm sorry the OP is having issues but my experience with the LS platform is much different than his.
     
  2. z28dug

    z28dug Veteran Member

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    What sort of mileage do they have on them....I have 3 of them...250k miles leaks, 200k miles leaks, 95k miles no leaks...my way of thinking is many of the seals simply have a finite life......
     
  3. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Agreed, but I was in the process of installing last night after their order time, if
    the part was in stock .. I would have gone to buy it. I put it into the freezer, I
    will go in a few mins to put the manifold on to where I can just pop it in quickly.

    Yes, seals don't last forever, but at the moment my 50 year old Studebaker leaks
    about the same oil but has the original seals. This one has both mains done, and
    the PVC and valve covers redone. I am hoping the o-rings/cover gasket solve it.

    Tom
     
  4. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Intake gasket just pops out of the bore. Even after in the freezer all night. So, I
    guess spend ANOTHER 30 bucks on it. :rolleyes:

    It obviously grew again from being exposed to all that oil in the intake.

    Tom
     
  5. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    I thought roughing up the sides might help it grab. Nope. Whatever.

    [​IMG]

    Tom
     
  6. Joekool

    Joekool Veteran Member

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    Ive replaced 6 rear main plates this year, I wish it wasn't such a common leak, I really don't like doing that job :whine:

    I will say most don't leak until past 100k and it seems to be more common on 4x4 models.
     
  7. Mike N

    Mike N Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    :innocent:
     
  8. hot72rod

    hot72rod Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I have 200000 on my 04 2500 4th and no oil leak.
     
  9. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    OK. Felpro, hook me up, I redesigned the crappy design GM. 8 small blobs of
    high temp RTV, 4 inside and 4 outside. Let cure 2 hours.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Press into the bore the thicker sections hold the stupid rubber o-ring in place.

    [​IMG]

    Back together and runs again.

    [​IMG]

    Now onto the bottom parts .. crankshaft sensor and block off plate.

    Tom
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2014
  10. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Well then. I put the car back in the air and removed the starter and then the
    crankshaft sensor. It was stuck in the bore as well.

    [​IMG]

    I reached my hand up between the flex plate the block and its bone dry.

    [​IMG]

    The sensor showed possible signs that oil was getting past, but not really a
    serious threat.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Old vs new.

    [​IMG]

    With the engine cooled off, I was able to get closer to this CAT, and saw some
    oil on this pan bolt. I never cleaned this up after changing the front seal, there
    has really only been a short time.

    [​IMG]

    I very quickly realized that this cover wasnt coming off with the CAT there, so
    much for the 5 dollar gasket. I did put a small box end wrench on it and snug it
    up, was questionably snug. From what I can tell its 216 in lbs. I don't think I
    can over tighten with a short wrench.

    [​IMG]

    Missing the cover that goes here. Hmmm. Noticed that when I pulled the trans.

    [​IMG]

    At the back of the bellhousing there is some noticeable fresh wetness, I'm thinkin
    the only way for oil to get up here would be the OPS.

    [​IMG]

    Speaking of the transmission. All the oil that I found on it, and dripping onto the
    ground, was on the opposite side of that pan bolt with the oil on it ... here :

    [​IMG]

    The torque converter side of the flex plate is also bone dry. If the flex plate bolts
    were leaking, it should be noticeable here :

    [​IMG]

    The back of the pan, was also bone dry. I would have to say the leak isnt from an
    area I touched, unless its the OPS.

    [​IMG]

    I went through and cleaned the oil pan all the way around as best I could. This is
    the first cleaning since the front seal was replaced. If the oil pan gasket is leaking,
    I don't see a point that I would have been easily able to swap it out. Unless, it is
    possible to slide it out from between the engine and the engine cradle and none of
    the articles I see for a 4th Gen support that. Seems the ONLY way to change the
    pan gasket is to drop the K-member. Sigh.

    This seems like the best How-To I have seen for a 4th Gen .. to be honest it seems
    easier then pulling the trans!

    http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/ls1-based-engine-tech-19/guide-replacing-oil-pan-gasket-ls1-832002/

    Tom
     

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