GM's LS oil leakers / burners or "The 2 stroke Chevy"

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by sbca96, Jun 11, 2014.

  1. drptop70ss

    drptop70ss Veteran Member

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    You sure like spinning wrenches.
    Ever think of just putting some flourescent dye in the oil and using a light to see exactly where it is coming from? Beats the swap till you drop method and works on LT1s as well.
     
  2. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    Sigh. I think I have explained quite a number of times that you can not see the
    back of the engine in this platform. Any dye would be visible at the same point
    the oil is visible. There is more than one leak, and if you look through the thread
    at no point did I replace something that didn't need to be replaced.

    The biggest job was the rear cover, it was obviously leaking, and I had stripped
    a threaded hole in it anyway. Its not swap till you drop, that would be replacing
    parts that were still good.

    Thanks for your input though.

    Tom
     
  3. drptop70ss

    drptop70ss Veteran Member

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    That is why you run the dye before disassembly. With the trans out you could of seen if there was a leak up high which then leaks onto everything lower.
     
  4. camarolife78

    camarolife78 Veteran Member

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    In hindsight I think you would have been better off in the long run pulling the motor and doing a full regasket job. That might've saved a bunch of the under car on your back work. Hopefully you get it whipped soon
     
  5. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    True, in hindsight I would have avoided buying an LS1 power Camaro all together.;)

    Buttoned everything up and took it for a drive, went to a couple places and then
    home pulled in the garage and let it cool off an hour, found this :

    [​IMG]

    Nothing on the bottom of the pan, nothing dripping off ..

    [​IMG]

    Wet here, no signs its coming from above, reached up, could not feel any fresh oil.

    [​IMG]

    No signs on the driver side either :

    [​IMG]

    Nothing on that bolt that had oil on it before :

    [​IMG]

    Not seeing anything here either :

    [​IMG]

    Take the little plug at the back of the bellhousing out :

    [​IMG]

    Some oil wetness there, and inside :

    [​IMG]

    This is there it gets weird, no oil on the bigger plug forward of that :

    [​IMG]

    Reach finger inside the front larger hole .. no oil inside. Now, how can there be oil
    at the back of the bellhousing and none at the front, when the front is lower, and
    further more .. where is oil coming from to only be in the rear of the bellhousing? I
    touch the flex plate and it is dry and the TC shows no signs of oil residue either.

    Stain on the right it what was on the floor of the garage. Stain on the left is from
    the trans dipstick tube.

    [​IMG]

    Tom
     
  6. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    You sure have a stumper. And you are checking everything so carefully and systematically.
    I would leave those bell housing covers off until you figure this out. (Unless you live a dirt road.)

    How long did you drive before the car made that puddle?
    If just 5-10 minutes, perhaps you can put the car on jack stands, start from cold when the oil pressure is higher and run it until the fans turn on.
    The leaking oil should then be undisturbed by wind/fans and drip straight down. This might work better with dye and a black light.

    I don't think the leak is from the flexplate bolts. First, I have never heard of that and I read lots of LS posts. Those bolts should be installed with Loctite and that should seal against non-pressurized oil.

    I also think these are the most leak resistant engines GM has ever produced. I have a slopped driveway and no one with an LS engine/variations has ever dripped on my driveway. In contrast, pretty much everyone with a SBC has dripped.

    Good luck!
     
  7. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    I am just burnt out on this. I told her to just drive it and park it in the street. I
    guess with a LIFT and dye/light, you may get some idea of whats going on, but I
    just simply cant see anything, cant feel anything and I have other fish to fry.

    The '78 Camaro developed a FUEL leak now. A very shallow dent in the bottom
    of the tank created a crack at the edge and is leaking.

    http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3270299&postcount=196

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Dropping the tank tomorrow.

    Tom
     
  8. hot72rod

    hot72rod Veteran Member Gold Member

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    J B weld will fix that.
     
  9. z28dug

    z28dug Veteran Member

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    I think for the LS1 you might need to see if you can rent/borrow a diagnostic camera that you can poke up the flex plate inspection hole to see if the back of the engine is still dry.........however at the end of the day it sounds like it is easier just to live with a small oil leak and add a quart when the low oil light comes on....
     
  10. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    While my previous LS2 engine never leaked a drop of oil, the brand new LS3 engine I built last winter leaked after each drive. With my garage being rebuilt during the summer I just kept a pan under the car. I assumed I had messed up the crank seal or the fit between the rear plate and the oil pan.
    After my new garage was done I put the car on the hoist for a close look. The inspection hole in the bell housing showed a bone-dry rear plate, so it wasn't the crank seal. While there was oil under the oil filter, bell housing, transmission pan, etc, there seemed to be a bit more dripping from the starter motor. I therefore suspected the crank sensor which I had reused from the LS2. I therefore dropped the starter and removed the crank sensor. Sure enough, the o-ring wasn't even snug.

    I installed a new crank sensor which comes with a new o-ring and the leak has stopped. Just FYI.
     

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