Going T56 Magnum.. Few Hydraulic questions

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by 76z28, Mar 19, 2019.

  1. 76z28

    76z28 Veteran Member

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    Hello,
    I am starting the 10/10/10 set up with silver sport transmissions. I am currently going to be moving back to my hometown for a substantial pay raise and decided that I want to use my car more. I put the transmission on layaway so all my dates line up and works out. While I wait to move/get the transmission, I want to learn more about installation.

    Currently I know I need to cut the floor to make it fit. I plan on doing insulation at this time. Any ideas for that? I was thinking of going with something like fatmat from ebay.

    As for the major question I have. Would this hydraulic set up work?
    OE slave cylinder/bearing(out of an 02 camaro?) and an 02 camaro master cylinder(or updated version or something) with a DSE braket?

    This is going behind a 489 bbc with 3.73 gears.
     
  2. Lowend

    Lowend Administrator. .a car, a man, a maraca. Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The guys I know have been happy with clutch hydraulics on this swap have mostly used Tilton
     
  3. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    I use a combination. I use a ZR1 OEM bearing/slave. There's no need to go aftermarket here and I prefer OEM because it bolts right on and can be easily replaced. Many of the aftermarket set-ups float on a stud of some sort and requires shims to set them up. I use a Wilwood compact MC with a custom bracket on the firewall made by Mean Street Machines.
     
  4. 76z28

    76z28 Veteran Member

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    That was the alternative--at least for the MC and bracket.
    I was looking at the Wilwood and just making a bracket.

    As for the bearing/slave. I would prefer to use a stock one due to ease of finding one. Do you know if there is a difference between the ZR1, camaro, or any of them? I see different lines, but not much else?

    Thanks!
     
  5. 76z28

    76z28 Veteran Member

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    Eh I have seen issues with the Tilton as well which is why I wanted to just go with stock
    There are probably 100:1 stock:tilton bearings on the road. There are likely less issues with the stock one.
     
  6. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    The difference is the standing and compressed height. The ZR1 is a shorter bearing/slave set-up. A lot of the newer cars like the Camaro have a super deep bell housing and thus a very tall bearing.
     
  7. TCinthe6

    TCinthe6 Veteran Member

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    I went with the stock GM Performance throw out bearing for my T56 setup. Pretty sure it's the same part on the Camaros and Corvettes. Mated that to McLeod's 2nd gen firewall kit that comes with lines, reservoir, master. Bolted up very easily. But you do need a fitting from Russell to plumb the line to the bearing.

    GM part number for the kit was: 19331080.

    Comes with everything...clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, bearing, bellhousing.
     
  8. 76z28

    76z28 Veteran Member

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    I already have the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate/bellhousing from SST, I just need the hydraulic system now. They wanted 660 bucks and I figured I could make a system that is about half the cost.


    @badazz81z28 hmm
    Okay, I will look into the ZR1 system.
    I found an Ls1 that said it would work with the tremec bearing. I am hoping I don't have to shim it out. Do you know where I can find the height info?
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2019
  9. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    I can't recall where I got those....The ZR1 is a very short bearing. If you can mock your set-up and measure the distances, it will help get you in the zone for what size you need. I want to say I probably got the #s from one of the 4th gen sites. The SST kit does use the modern slave with the green boot. I used one of their kits when they were Keisler.
     
  10. John Wright

    John Wright Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The only way to know for sure is to measure it. You may or may not have to shim. You want a small amount of free play (.150-.200” clearance to the fingers) so that the bearing isn't riding heavy on the pressure plate fingers. With the clutch and pressure plate installed, you need to measure with a straightedge across the bellhousing down to the pressure plate fingers, shim as required to get the happy spot of .150-.200 free play (clearance).
     

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