Gosh Darn you LS1!! The Front Seal

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by sbca96, Jan 26, 2013.

  1. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    I figured it was worth while sharing what I learned the last few days.....

    My wifes 1999 Camaro SS LS1 has a leaking front main at 230k miles. I have a
    replacement seal, but the procedure to replace it sounds like I am working on a
    Military grade part, not a freakin daily driver GM product. What gives?

    Use an impact gun set to earth shattering PSI to remove bolt.
    Mark the balancer in relation to the crank snout (rotationally)
    So you need a special puller to get the hub off.
    You need to measure the depth of the seal.
    Pull the seal being super careful not the scratch the crank.
    Replace the seal matching the depth measured earlier.

    Then the fun part :

    Buy or create a special pusher tool to get the hub onto the crank, then use the
    original bolt and tighten to like 240 ft lbs, remove bolt, measure the depth of the
    crankshaft nose within the balancer bore with a depth micrometer. This should
    be between 0.094 inches and 0.176 inches. Reinstall bolt and tighten until the
    installation depth of the crankshaft balancer is within this range. Install a NEW
    bolt, torque to 37 lb ft and turn to 140 degrees.

    The absolute BEST part of this : the bolt is DISCONTINUED from GM and is out
    of stock at every Dealership in the US. I see it available online, but I had really
    expected to just get one at the Dealer today. This job will have to wait, just
    the timing was good (front suspension is torn out in the garage right now).

    I guess the days of yanking the hub off, slapping in a seal and wrenching it on
    are dead & gone with the LT1.:rolleyes: Everything on this engine is more money, more
    time & less margin for error. $22 dollars for a front seal? $22 ??:mad:

    Tom
     
  2. JJFarmer

    JJFarmer Veteran Member

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    It's not that bad but you will need a damn good puller to get the pulley off. I bought one made just for the job. If you can't find a GM bolt you can get a ARP bolt. My local dealer had me a GM bolt overnight. Better make sure your guy is not chasing an obsolete part number. I bought a longer bolt at fastenal to start the hub back on too.
     
  3. Protour-Camaro

    Protour-Camaro Veteran Member

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    Dude, its not that bad. The pulley doesn't have to be exactly where you removed it. Its not keyed and neutrally balanced.

    Any simple 3 jaw puller will get the pulley off. I used one from harbor freight.

    The bolt can be bought anywhere! Fel-pro makes the OEM bolt and ARP makes a better one you can just torque to spec.

    You do need a special install tool, but the correct one is only $50, but some have bought the $20 home made tool from Ebay.

    To prevent damaging the crank, I would remove the front cover...

    I feel your frustration, but what an opportunity to do a cam swap and replace the pump and chain.


    When you get the pulley back on, it will only go so far...don't get stressed about the measurement.
     
  4. Leonards78LT

    Leonards78LT Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    The factory bolt is a one time use only, you would be better off if you used an ARP bolt.
    Also, like JJFarmer said, a longer bolt for starting the hub is a must.
     
  5. Protour-Camaro

    Protour-Camaro Veteran Member

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    Please buy the correct tool from HAWK or a minimum, the Ebay Cheapo...

    I don't want to see a thread "I stripped my crank threads :mad: "
     
  6. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    I had to put this off until I can even get the bolt. I plan on buying the threaded
    stock and making a tool. I made one for the LT1, so I am good with that. I just
    was shocked at the lengthy procedure required to do the job.

    To quote Scotty ...

    "The more they advance the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain".

    Tom
     
  7. camarochevy1970

    camarochevy1970 Veteran Member

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  8. 73 L92

    73 L92 Veteran Member

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    Just buy the ARP bolt. With 230,00 miles you may to pull it apart in the future anyway. Torque it to 240 LBS. I did the threaded rod from Fastenal. Works good. You feel the damper come up to the oil pump gear as you pull it on. Made a "bar" with two 1/2" bolts to engage the spokes of the dampener to keep the crank from turning. The bar was long enough to brace up against the frame rail. You can buy a flex plate blocking tool but you have to remove the starter to bolt it in.
     
  9. camarochevy1970

    camarochevy1970 Veteran Member

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    you can buy 4 GM bolts for the cost of an ARP
     
  10. camarochevy1970

    camarochevy1970 Veteran Member

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