HEADERS for a LS motor in a 75 and up 2nd gen

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by jazzdriver, Jan 22, 2011.

  1. BLKnBad71Z

    BLKnBad71Z Veteran Member

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    Looks like you can't get the edelbrock mounts from summit anymore. They have a sub part number for transdapt #4595. Anyone uese these??
     
  2. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    I bought the Edelbrock, Transdapt 4572 and 4575. I ended up using the 4572 as I wanted the "0" offset. The 4595 are the 4575 with rubber motor mounts. The 4575/4595 have the identical hole pattern to the Edelbrocks. IIRC the Edelbrock plates were 1/32" thicker. I shimmed with 1/16" washers anyway.
    I need to check, but if you really want the Edelbrocks, I think I still have them and would sell them for 1/2 price.
     
  3. Arad68

    Arad68 New Member

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    I would be interested in those plates if you haven't sold them. Only if Blk n bad passes though.
     
  4. jerhofer

    jerhofer Veteran Member

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    I am still in the process of gathering parts for my swap. I am going with Dirty Dingo slider mounts. They allow you to use the factory mounts and elephant collar but have 2" of adjustment horizontally. They also set the motor an inch or so higher than some adapters so the F Body oil pan will work.

    As for headers, Kooks Headers is located about 30 miles from here. They are going to use my car as a guinea pig to design a set of stainless headers and the full exhaust system to go with it. We toured their plant and they make some very nice headers. Their sales manager has a 2nd gen drag car that does 8's at 170.

    I am planning on using my Richmond 6 speed and I hope the adjustment on the mounts will allow me to use my existing crossmember and drive shaft.

    I had a Billet Specialties front runner on my SB and really liked it. I have their LS front runner to install. Besides liking the quality of the Billet Specialties kit, another reason for going this way is that the AC compressor and PS pump mount in nearly the same positions. Based on the measurements I got from Billet Specialites, I know my AC lines will work and the PS lines will be close.

    All conjecture at this point until I can put everything in the car. Should be doing that the week after next.
     
  5. daniel76309

    daniel76309 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Jerhofer, you have probably thought about this, but just in case you haven't, you do need to consider the fact that raising the engine at the front mount while keeping everything else the same is going to affect the angle that the trans output shaft makes with the driveshaft. Depending on how everything else is situated on your car, you may be able to compensate for that by shimming up your pinion shaft by an equal amount. However, that may not work, because changing anything in your driveline affects angles at both front and rear of the driveshaft, but to a different extent. (hope that makes sense) In my case, to make it work out correctly, I had to modify the engine mounting locations on my frame and lower the front of the engine.
     
  6. jerhofer

    jerhofer Veteran Member

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    Thanks for bringing that up. I am planning on checking the angle. What I don't know is, even though the engine is being raised an inch, how does that relate to the height of the SB and how the bellhousing mounts on the rear of the motor. Lots of things to consider and check out.
     
  7. BLKnBad71Z

    BLKnBad71Z Veteran Member

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    I'm not sure what mounts to go with anymore?? I was told before to get the 1" set back ones to keep the trans mount at the same place. the some say to use the 0 offset?? I'm going to be using a 6.0L with a 700R4 trans. From reading what some people said on here the edelbrocks mounts fit the best without any problems??
     
  8. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    I assume you read my message #45 in this thread. Since the 700R4 is longer than a TH350 and has a bigger case, I would recommend the 0" position as that will make it less likely the trans case hits the tunnel. IMO it will also make it easier to get a crossmember to fit the rear trans mount.
    However, sometimes the decision is dictated by the headers you use. I have the (now discontinued) Edelbrock swap headers which obviously were designed for the 1" back position. That position caused my 4l65E to hit the tunnel, so I went with 0" position TransDapt mounts. With that I had to compress one of the header tubes about 1/4" to keep it reasonable far from the subframe.
    In other words there is no final answer, it depends upon the complete set of components.
     
  9. BLKnBad71Z

    BLKnBad71Z Veteran Member

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    I'm thinking of going with the dynatech ones. I'd like to not have to cut them up if possible. I'm going to get the coated ones. I was told with the 700 that i can use the factory crossmember and just move it to the 2nd mounting holes and then redrill a set for the other holes.
     
  10. mrvedit

    mrvedit Veteran Member

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    Sounds like several members have tried the Dynatechs and been very happy with them.

    On my '81 I briefly tried that with the 1" back mounts. No way - my 4l65e (same case size as 700R4?) was both too far back and too high up and pressed into tunnel. I don't recall if two of the stock crossmember bolt holes lined up. In any case I decided this was not a good solution - precisely drilling two holes without removing the subframe also looked non-trivial. I have read of people solving the height problem by cutting of off the trans mount platform from the crossmember and welding in a lower one, but I am the world's worst welder. Therefore I bought a G-Force crossmember which mounts the trans 2-1/4" back and 1" lower. However, since the trans is 3-1/4" longer, that meant the 1" back motor mounts wouldn't work, but the 0" mounts worked correctly.
    Obviously, your results may vary. :)
     

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