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Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by jazzdriver, Jan 22, 2011.
are the setback plates needed with a t-56?
Just an update on where I'm at so far...after much more research I did decide on the 0 plates b/c of the T56. The LS1 T56 is overall about 4.25" longer than a Super T10 4-speed....and the shifter location is roughly ~3" further back from where the 4-spd would be.
Now considering that the bellhousing mating surface is 1" shorter with the LS1, the 0 plates should (in theory) save me an extra inch on shifter location...meaning my shifter will only move back 2" instead of 3" in the tunnel.
Nevertheless, I'm still pulling parts together right now but hope to be doing some test fitting in the car in the next couple weeks, and I will come back and update this thread with my findings.
Ironically my BRP headers showed up today. Very nice looking pieces...came with bolts, gaskets, ball & socket collectors, reducers, etc. Just no 02 bung...not a big deal though, I can weld those into the reducers easy enough.
I went with the Hedman kit, that came with ceramic coated headers, powder coated engine mounts, trans mount, all bolts and polyurethane bushings. The mounts put the engine inthe stock location. I am running an LQ4 with a 4L80e. The driveline was installed inthe car this week, and everything fit like a glove. The only thing that needed to be modified was the subframe had to have new holes drilled to line up with the new crossmember. Overall, very satisfied with this kit.
Uh, help please.
After the failure of my stock manifolds to fit I've been looking for a cost effective solution.
The link above now lists them as "DISCONTINUED" and they are listed on Jegs for $720!!!!!!!
I think I read somewhere that they are still available, but under a different part number. If I can find it I will send it your way...
Here you go:
Speedway Motors bought out Dynatech, they still sell them for $399 + S&H, but they run about 2-3 weeks lag time on getting them out (I think they are like the Whopper....made to order). www.speedwaymotors.com New part # I was given is 31171519410, and it was best to call them.
Those look like very nice Headers, but just beware that they apparently hang down pretty low under the subframe.
Would Hooker block huggers work? $230 from Jegs.
I have no idea on those. I did a lot of research though, and it appeared that the most common were one of 4 options....
1. Edelbrock - But now discontinued and none seem to be available any longer as old stock and I haven't seen any used/2nd hand ones pop-up yet.
2. BRP - They are actually made by Hedman ("Musclerod Hustler Hedders")...available as full length or 3/4 length....full length looked like they may have some ground clearance issues to me....I'll report back how well the 3/4 length end up working out, but so far I can say that they are well constructed and look very nice.
3. Dynatech - Really nice looking construction and coating, but they apparently hang down quite a bit and I was pretty certain they would be dragging everywhere on my car (it sits very low on coilovers, and I live out in the country...have to take a bumpy blacktop county road to go anywhere). If clearance isn't an issue they look like a good choice to me.
4. Use 4th Gen headers and just cut & reweld the collector on one that curves into the frame rail (I assume because of the way 4th gens used a Y-pipe). This is probably the cheapest route....I've found used 4th gen headers on CL for as low as $100....if you can't cut & weld it yourself, just take it to a welding shop...I'd imagine it would be an inexpensive job.
I put the Dynatech 1 7/8" x 3" lont tube 2nd gen f-body LSx swap headers in my '68 C-15 and they fit great. Couldn't beat them for the price either....$399 for ceramic coated. Still look good after the motor goes thru a few heat cycles too. :lol: