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Discussion in 'Camaro Questions' started by 74vette74, Jun 15, 2007.
What guides besides the car its self is there to insure me that a 1968 Z/28 is real?
Nothing - other than paperwork (printed in 1968) (a build sheet, invoice, POP, etc...), and/or the original drivetrain for this car.... which'll be a 302 engine, 4 speed, and 12 bolt rear end. All decoded as having come from this specific car.
No paperwork, or missing the original drivetrain means "what you see is what you get".
What he said. The 302/4-speed are the big give aways. Vin shoud be stamped on both.
My 68 Z/28 I sold in 1974.
Gauge pkg was an option
Console was an option
Look for a Canadian car and have GM run the VIN for the option list. Cars in the US can't prove the paperwork is real.
Last night at a cruise in a guy told be he bought a BB block and when he was cleaning it the block cast # that stands up was made from JB weld and broke off. Hmmm. Someone needs to be hanged.
Multileaf rear springs, front disc brakes are a couple things to look for. Without the original engine and tranny the car's value would drop quite a bit, those parts are tough to find and replace.
Go to Camaros.net, they will be able to help. 68's are the hardest to document as there is very little you can do without documentation. Just do a search over there and you should find everything you need.
Go to the http://www.camaros.org/index.shtml and they should be able to help. They maintain a database and if your car has popped up before they may have it. Engine code suffix should be "MO"...look for little stuff like the carb (proper number on air horn, dating and metering block numbers), dual exhaust hanger on rear passenger frame rail, single 3/8" fuel line, dating on heads, block, tranny and rear axle...the sort of stuff that takes time, money and attention to detail to collect and install.
As mentioned above, '68s are very hard to authenticate without paperwork...
you could contact Jerry MacNeish at http://www.z28camaro.com/ if you have the time before purchase to have him authenticate and value the car.
IF the car is a Van Nuys built car (has an L in the VIN, instead of a N) there is a sure fire way to determine if the car left the factory as a Z28 or not
the top of the cowl will be painted the stripe color
ALL Van Nuys built cars that had factory applied stripes were painted this way: Z28, Z10 & Z11
Do a search on the above mentioned web site for pictures on this subject
Other than what was mentioned above, 12 bolt, disc brakes, disc brake proportioning valve, multi leaf springs, 3/8 fuel line, exhaust pipe hanger bracket on drivers side rear "frame rail", MO engine there are a couple of other clues that may point to the car being built as a Z28 nearly 40 years ago.
ALL solid lifter Z28's built had the accy rear bumper guards (67-72)
ALL 67-72 Z28's came with 15" wheels and IF the original wheel info sticker is still in place it would say so.
Console was optional on the Z28
the accessory guage package was also optional
IF it has the guages, the tach red line is 6k, only the L78 and the Z28 had that redline
beyond that, there is NO indication from the VIN or the body tag what the car was (other than being a V8 or a 6, coupe or convert)
obviously if it is an automatic car with factory air (neither of which were avail on the Z28) is is NOT a real Z
so IF you have some of the above items still in place, the chance are you MAY have a car that was built as a Z28 so long ago
Some will argue that if it is missing the BORN WITH engine, the car no longer is a Z28, even though it WAS at one time
People are faking POP's and other paperwork, so you need to sleuth the other items to confirm in your mind. Beware of engine stamps too, as many are faked or restamped.
As stated above also is IF the car was SOLD in Canada, there IS a SOLID, 100% way to confirm what the car WAS.
Is the seller a dealer or a private party?
LOTS of dealers have NO CLUE and a clone may be passed off as the real thing. Plenty of private party sellers do the same thing. You really need to confirm ALL the key parts and if you are not an expert or comfortable, you may want to rely on the experience of this group or especially the 1st gen group at www.camaros.org or http://www.teamcamaro.com/
good luck and post some pics if you can
If you are talking a high dollar car, Jerry is your best bet.
Careful about who you contact, don't offer details on where it is, I've heard stories about cars being bought out from under people...and not just JM, lots of guys...my $.02