How much does paint really cost?

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by RickM, Nov 21, 2019.

  1. RickM

    RickM Veteran Member

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    Well my painter says he is ready to put some color on my car, finally. I think he is serious this time, and even though he has had my car for 9 months he has been honest and polite with me about delays etc.. I have seen the work he has done so far and it looks good. He has epoxied and primed the car. Done body work and blocked the car down. It looks good.

    Bottom line is I like the kid and even though he is still honoring the initial estimate (no surprises, he is not asking for more than the estimate) I want to help him out and pay for some of the paint/clear. I told him I want to use good paint, not the cheap stuff.

    I know for a fact he has used PPG epoxy and primer and says he needs to stick with PPG.

    So my question is how much will the paint/clear cost? I am painting the car a metallic green.
    The whole car needs paint it was stripped to bare metal.

    How much paint will it typically take and for a middle/higher grade of PPG paint how much am I looking at? I was thinking I would pay for at least half of the cost.

    Thanks
    RickM
     
  2. GoldenOne7710

    GoldenOne7710 Equal Opportunity Offender Lifetime Gold Member

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    Metallic adds to the cost...big time.

    Just for reference, I priced Switchblade Silver Metallic (newer GM color). Enough PPG brand base/clear to paint my entire car...jams, under deck lid, and the entire exterior....was $1200...and that was 8 years ago. That was with an employee discount. The paint store manager is an old school mate and applied HIS discount to the price.

    I went an entire different route, which was my plan B. I went with black...no metal flake etc. Cut the cost of the paint by 50%.
     
  3. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    What’s the difference between “cheap” and expensive paint?
     
  4. McCune

    McCune Veteran Member

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    1K a gallon.
     
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  5. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Yep, you can get PPG top-of-the-line or go lower in their lineup and use OMNI/OMNI Pro.
    I just bought some black OMNI Pro base/clear to redo the hood on my daily. It is more of a "production" line of finishes.
     
  6. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

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    Shop line is another option. You should go to your local Paint dealer. Ask them direct questions. PPG sent Tech Reps to Demonstrate their new products. That was always neat stuff to find out. Ask how much pigment is in the top line compared to Omni or Shop line. It s basically the same paint but different amounts of pigment. "Less" Good luck.
     
  7. SRGN

    SRGN Veteran Member

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    In PPG, it would be really easy to rack up a $1500 bill for the materials at wholesale including what he already put down. There is cheaper stuff out there, but you get what you pay for.
     
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  8. giggity

    giggity Veteran Member

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    hes correct about staying with the same paint "system" they are designed to work with eachother. PPG is expensive. Im going with SPI, and doing it myself. SPI paint is considerably cheaper, and I haven't read a whole lot of negative about it.
     
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  9. secondgenaddict

    secondgenaddict Veteran Member

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    MATERIALS ALONE... - IF you do everything from bare metal including all of the correct seam sealers, epoxy primer, then filler primer, final sealer, paint, clear, trunk spatter, rockers, undercoating, dash semigloss dash ZERO gloss etc. $3000 bare min for quality.
    I have been using DUPONT (axalta) my entire life & I really like how the the CHROMA and CHROMA PREMIER lines perform plus I have had great product support over the years. GRANTED IT IS NOT inexpensive, however in the grand scheme of things materials are 15-18% of a paint job's cost so even if I saved 1/3 of the materials cost, if I had one issue in 10 jobs I would lose on the deal.
     
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  10. WrecksNRestos

    WrecksNRestos New Member

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    Too hard to gauge how much materials are going to cost. If your painter wants to use PPG, then that is what he is comfortable with. You can use shopline base coat but make sure
    you use a high solids clear coat. The clear coat is what protects the paint from the sun. If you use the cheap clear coats, they don't have as much of the UV protection in them which
    will make them break down faster.

    I have talked with a few chemists in the automotive paint companies and you don't have to stick with the same brand through out the vehicle. I have a friend who was a high up PPG rep and
    they never paid out on a claim while she was there for 10 years. The local jobbers might have paid out but PPG themselves did not. As long as you use the same type systems, you will be fine. If you use PPG sealer, dupont base coat and sikkens clear coat. There will be no issues. I know this because at a shop I worked at many years ago, I had to do this kind of paint work because the owner of the shop couldn't pay his bills. I would see these cars years later and the paint would hold up really well. The old adage of "You get what you pay for" doesn't really adhere to paint materials. You are paying PPG to advertise, to have there sticker on a race car, all of there office personal and higher ups that they pay.

    I use the same brand now but it was all a sales pitch from the paint manufactures to scare everyone into buying what they were selling. Tell your painter that you want to contribute to the paint materials and ask him to show you the receipt after he buys the materials. At that point, you can see what that cost and offer what ever you feel like paying. On a full rotisserie paint job, I use between 1 to 1 1/2 gallons of paint mixed 1:1. A lot depends on if the underside of the car is the same as the outside etc. Same with clear coat as I use a high solids clear coat at 2:1 mix.
     

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