Lowered Car for Drag Racing

Discussion in 'Competition Camaros' started by An87442, Apr 25, 2018.

  1. TrashySide78

    TrashySide78 New Member

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    32322B72-B9FB-4AE3-8955-458D66BFFF46.jpeg Thanks , again. Car looks great. I just bought one. Is why I’m asking .
     
  2. An87442

    An87442 Member

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    Nice clean car. Get Busy. Have Fun. And expect a few cuss words while you grab another beer. What are your plans on the build?
     
  3. TrashySide78

    TrashySide78 New Member

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    Same ride height as yours. I’m gonna do the spike wheels from Jegs. 4l80e and I can’t decide between a pump gas 632 or a ls turbo. I have intake and turbo and headers, and long block that needs rebuild for a ls . But the 632 sounds like fun .
     
  4. bruce69camaro

    bruce69camaro New Member

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    Like to know more about your motor. I have a similar 496 for my 69 and first run off the trailer, it went 10.34 @ 135mph and second one was 10.36 @ 129mph. Had some kind of electrical issue going on and the motor was wanting to die.
    How is the 950 with your motor?
    I'm running a 1050 on mine.
    What are coming out at and shifting at?
    Thanks and nice car and I agree, the stance looks right on.
    Bruce
     
  5. An87442

    An87442 Member

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    I'd be happy to share whatever I can. The motor made 810hp at the crank when it was put together. It is a 13.2 compression, stock block with a Howard's ~.730 lift cam (I have the cam card). Mahle pistons, Molnar crank and rods, Dart 360 Aluminum heads, Dart intake, Ferrea valves, Trick Flow springs and Dart girdles. The carb is a 4150 Gary Williams 950 that flows 1000CFM (I'd like to put a 1050 on it to see if it picks up anything). It has an MSD Digital 6 box, MSD distributor and 8.5mm wires. TH350 trans with a Ultimate 8" converter, 5800 stall and a 8.5 10 bolt with 4.30 gears (9" went in over the winter). I launch on a trans brake between 4600-5400rpms. Shift 7200-7400rpms. Go through the traps around 7400. I run a 28x10.5 slick. Car is all steel and glass except for the hood. Pretty heavy at 3500lbs. Your MPH is a little higher than mine, which is usually 130-132 but I have been 134. 60ft is 1.40-1.45. Oh and I took the lowering blocks out of the car, no problem with them but a little story of itself when I tried a 29.5x10.5 slick.
     
  6. bruce69camaro

    bruce69camaro New Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Our motors sound pretty close the same. I'm using a factory 4 bolt block, bored and decked, Mahle 13.7 pistons, Eagle crank and rods, Chris Straub solid roller, 4-7 swap, .748/.705 270/276 @ .050, heads are Promaxx 317 heads assembled by Scott Foxwell, AFR stud girdle, Scorpion 1.7 roller rockers, Moroso oil pan, Victor R intake, 1050 dominator, MSD 6AL and Pro Billet distributor. At the time I was using 32 x 14 slicks with 4.88 gears. Car is around 3300 with me in it.
    My first two runs with this motor were a disaster. To this day, not sure what happened but at the track, the car started to have a miss. We could not fire out where it was coming from, but our best guess was, I installed a new Magnafuel regulator and because of where I mounted it, the fuel line was too close to the coil and we think it sparked somehow and damaged the coil because of a mark we found. The car was acting like it was flooding out and wouldn't idle or stay running. We checked the carb and didn't see anything wrong, so we attempted to run it and only got two runs. Both runs I had to leave off because the back end started to come around. Both 60's were terrible because I was doing all I could to keep the car running and my reaction times were extremely terrible. My two step had a 4600 chip in it and I was shifting at 7200 and crossed at 7200. The goal for this motor was to run 10.0's in all hot weather, so I know it will go 9's, which I'm happy with, but running 10.0 was the goal. The guy that built it for me was thinking the HP is somewhere between 750 and 800. I'm using a PTC converter that I was told is around 6200-6500 stall but we think that needs to be lowered to around 6000-6200.
    But now we got a twist to my story. My wife said, since we don't get to run it as much as we'd like to, put it on the street and this way we can drive it whenever we wanted to and still go to the track. So that's what I'm doing now.
     
  7. An87442

    An87442 Member

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    With all of that you should be able to go 10.0. I don't have that 9sec timeslip yet myself. I have a kit I could put on it if I wanted to see an easy low 9. Just haven't done it. Putting yours on the street, you need to know about your valve springs and pressure to know if they will wear out under prolonged driving. Also your compression will mean you need to drive around on 110-112 just to cruise around. That's a lot of gear on the street but the 32" tire will make up for some of it. I take mine on short trips around the house but nothing very far. Manual steering, brakes and valve body can make it a handful on the street but it is fun for short trips. Just have fun with it.
     
  8. bruce69camaro

    bruce69camaro New Member

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    I did have a talk with the guy that built my motor and he said my motor is actually a mild 496 build and the springs will be ok. I plan to run 110 on the street and 112 at the track. Mine also has manual steering and brakes and a manual valve body.
    I don't plan on taking it on any long trips, just a few short trips to some local car shows or just drive around the area.
    Do you think you need a kit to get you into the 9's? Sounds like you should be good for 9's without one?
     
  9. An87442

    An87442 Member

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    I have been tickling the 9's, NA and I should get that time slip at some point. My issue is being so heavy. At your weight I'd already have it. All steel and glass except for the hood. And I want to stay that way. Still have power windows too. I plan to fire mine up over the weekend and my engine builder will be here. I will talk with him about how squeeze that last tenth out of it to get that slip.
     

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